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Old 03-20-2016, 09:40 AM   #1
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Installing a Progressive Industries HW30C 30

Hello,

Last summer we had our A/C fail in our 2014 Coachman TT. Dometic replaced under warranty so I was happy they stood behind their warranty. Anyway, that got me thinking about the need for a surge suppressor / voltage management system. We set up our unit at the same place and leave it for the summer. We've have power failures at the park on a normal basis.

So, I just ordered my PI HW30C 30 from Amazon. I will install next weekend. Anybody have any installation advice?
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:43 AM   #2
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Installing a Progressive Industries HW30C 30

Very easy , btw Knowing what I know know I'd have ordered a 50 amp ems for your 30 amp camper so when you purchase your next camper and it's a 50 amp unit you could have taken it with you.


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Old 03-20-2016, 09:48 AM   #3
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it comes with very clear instructions and good pictures.
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:54 PM   #4
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I'm having feelings that I don't want to put the remote readout somewhere that would be always visible and thus annoying. I do want to see it, but I'm thinking it would be better hidden inside a cabinet. Would you folks agree?
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bheston View Post
I'm having feelings that I don't want to put the remote readout somewhere that would be always visible and thus annoying. I do want to see it, but I'm thinking it would be better hidden inside a cabinet. Would you folks agree?
I'm thinking along the same line. I have an HW50 ordered which should arrive next week. I would like to place the remote digital readout where I can easily monitor on a regular basis, but I'd also like to be able to see it when I initially plug into the pedestal. I cannot do both, but I'm leaning toward placing it inside the coach. Not sure where yet, but there are only so many locations that are accessible. I'm still studying it.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:47 AM   #6
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As far as being able to read the remote display from outside, this is generally not necessary as there is about a 15 second delay from "power on" at the pedestal until power is applied through the EMS. If there is a problem, no turn on. Otherwise you have time to go inside to monitor the turn on conditions.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:52 AM   #7
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Go to Home Depot and get a 3' section of 8/4 appliance cord. It will make the install much easier, as it is very flexible.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:54 AM   #8
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I installed my HW30 under the bath vanity behind an existing wood panel since that is where the power enters the trailer. I then mounted the display so it could be seen when I open the vanity door. Works great and out of the way. BTW, I also put a splash shield over the EMS box in case one of the H2O supply lines decides to rupture.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:36 PM   #9
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Go to Home Depot and get a 3' section of 8/4 appliance cord. It will make the install much easier, as it is very flexible.
For 50 amp, shouldn't it be 6 guage? I suppose for the short distance involved, 8 guage would be adequate. The 8/4 would be much easier to work with.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:56 PM   #10
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Several notes.

The remote display is very minimalist. I Mounted mine over the bedroom closet, so I can easily check it. I don't even notice it unless I look for it.

6 Gauge is what you should use for 50 Amps regardless of length. 8 for 30.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:18 PM   #11
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I ordered the 50 amp for my 30 amp trailer... there is a small amount of smoke and mirrors to installing as 50 to 30 trailer, but it will work. I kinda had to stand on my head to install... and then I had a defective unit... so it complicated the install. In the end it all worked out. Doing it over??? I would prolly bite the bullet and buy the one I need and use it as an upgrade when selling. I also have no current plans to upgrade as new trailers are $50K and up.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:57 PM   #12
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I found it helps some with #6 wire if you loosen the screws holding the contactor assembly and lift it out of the box slightly. Those #6 wires are very difficult to work with. And I mounted my monitor in the bay with the EMS.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
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For 50 amp, shouldn't it be 6 guage? I suppose for the short distance involved, 8 guage would be adequate. The 8/4 would be much easier to work with.

You are correct, but the OP is installing a 30amp unit. On the 50amp unit I installed in my coach, I used 6/4. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-21-2016, 06:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
I ordered the 50 amp for my 30 amp trailer... there is a small amount of smoke and mirrors to installing as 50 to 30 trailer, but it will work. I kinda had to stand on my head to install... and then I had a defective unit... so it complicated the install. In the end it all worked out. Doing it over??? I would prolly bite the bullet and buy the one I need and use it as an upgrade when selling. I also have no current plans to upgrade as new trailers are $50K and up.

You must be looking at the wrong dealer, my new Columbus 320rs was a ways south of 50k


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Old 03-21-2016, 06:25 PM   #15
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When I installed my Surge Guard this weekend I used 6 gauge and found the factory wiring from the fuse panel to the connection the outside of the trailer is 8 gauge for the 50 amp service my camper has
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dinostop View Post
When I installed my Surge Guard this weekend I used 6 gauge and found the factory wiring from the fuse panel to the connection the outside of the trailer is 8 gauge for the 50 amp service my camper has

Doesn't sound like that would pass rvia standards.id be checking into that


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Old 03-21-2016, 09:36 PM   #17
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You must be looking at the wrong dealer, my new Columbus 320rs was a ways south of 50k


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2016 nights camped "0"
2015 nights camped "34"

I try not to look...makes me happy and hurts my feelings at the same time.


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Old 03-21-2016, 09:48 PM   #18
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x2 with Turbs. His install will allow you to unplug and walk away. I hardwaire mine right with the WFCO so it will go whenever I get rid of my unit.

I like the remote display where you can read it i the camper. Kind of geekish so you can see the draw when you push that toaster button down, turn on the microwave, etc. (Means nothing to DW until it goes blank ).
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:47 AM   #19
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In my 5er, I had the remote display mounted on the cabinet opposite the entry steps so I saw it every time I walked in. Problem was, every time I walked in I stood there and watched it until it made a complete cycle of both lines. On the Georgetown I got the one with the internal display and now I have to open a hatch to check it out, which there really is no need as it will take care of you if something is wrong.
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:41 AM   #20
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I agree with aquaman about using appliance wire. Regular wire was a pia to run. I mounted my remote display low near power converter which is near the floor. Wish I put it higher I already hate having to bend down to check it.
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