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11-13-2010, 03:57 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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Lug nut stud stripped
We just got back from a trip on which I had to drill out a lug nut to replace a tire. The stud splines seem to be OK but the splines are stripped out in the brake drum. Anybody know where I can get a new brake drum at a reasonable price?
Thanks
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11-13-2010, 04:51 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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Most of the time, the studs are in the wheel hub. The brake drum just slips on. You need to know what kind of axles you have, the spindle diameter, and the lug pattern size.
I also don't understand this statement: "The stud splines seem to be OK but the splines are stripped out in the brake drum". You can buy just a stud and drive it in the hub. The brake drum should have nothing to do with the repair.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT 
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11-14-2010, 03:52 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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lug nut stud stripped
Thanks for your reply. I have a Flagstaff 25' TT. On a car the studs are in the hub but on mine they are in the brake drum. The splines are stripped in the drum. It's a 10" drum with 5 studs. I don't know if they are standard or specific to the make and model of the TT. I don't think the lug nut stud could be welded to the brake drum? Would the heat distort the drum?
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11-14-2010, 04:20 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
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see a trailer sales and let them sell you the part You need .Also a tire shop may have the stud in stock if a big shop. Bushman
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11-15-2010, 12:35 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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DO NOT WELD!!!!! get a drum/hub, or whatever you need. DO NOT WELD. The heat may distort, but will also the characterizations of the metal, and make a heard or soft spot. Not good. Especially on a trailer so far behind you it is hard to hear brake problems to start with. Besides, by the time you pay a shop $50 to weld something, you probably could have bought the correct pieces to fix it correctly.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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11-16-2010, 03:41 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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I checked with a welding shop and they said the weld probably wouldn't hold so I'm going to do the right thing and buy the drum/hub assy. with new bearings and seals. Found a local trailer dealer that has the part in stock for $69, so that doesn't sound too bad. Thanks for your comments.
Also, I find that the lug nuts need tightening after about 500 miles. Is this normal?
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11-16-2010, 04:15 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnpapa201
Also, I find that the lug nuts need tightening after about 500 miles. Is this normal?
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Yes. It is good idea to re-torque the nuts a couple of times after putting on the wheels. Every 100 miles or so recheck the lug nuts until they don't tighten any more. Even then, it is a good idea to recheck ever so often.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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11-16-2010, 05:47 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
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Yep check torx every 5-600miles and if backing up tight check more often that backing loosens wheels
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11-17-2010, 03:48 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the input. After stripping out the lug nut stud I'm going to loosen all the remaining nuts and apply anti-seize compound on the threads to prevent a repeat problem.
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11-17-2010, 04:01 PM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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I believe that anti-seize compound is considered a lubricant. Torque specs are for non-lubricated nuts. Those lug nuts might loosen up when you don't want them to. 
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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11-17-2010, 05:21 PM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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DO NOT USE ANTI SIEZE, GREASE, OIL, or anything else on the studs or lug nuts!!!!! You have been warned.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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11-17-2010, 06:07 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ontario
Posts: 719
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No Anti seize or anything else please. Metal on metal on lugnuts and torque it to the specs. If the problem repeats, you will have to deal with it again. Properly torqued, it should loosen up just fine.
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2009 Ford F-150 XLT/XTR 5.4l, CrewCab. long bed 
2011 Surveyor SV-291
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11-17-2010, 07:30 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
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No No a anti-seize is not a great idea never use that on lugs if any thing just a wipe of oil for a rust stopper.And very little of that retorx will help keep the threads free OK bushman
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11-17-2010, 08:37 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Detroit Lakes MN home of We Fest
Posts: 304
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go to your local parts store after you have removed the hub knock out the lug and take the lug and the nut in, they should be able to match it up for you then you pound it back in and put it back together
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11-18-2010, 03:58 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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" go to your local parts store after you have removed the hub knock out the lug and take the lug and the nut in, they should be able to match it up for you then you pound it back in and put it back together"
I have a drum/hub combo on my axle. The splines are stripped out in the hub so I'm going to have to replace the drum/hub assy. Ordered one from ABC Trailer Parts yesterday but haven't gotten a confirmation, hope they're legit.
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