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08-03-2020, 12:41 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Melted Surge Guard plug
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-03-2020, 01:09 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hawkins, Texas
Posts: 1,243
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That is fairly common with 30 amp service in an RV. The 30 amp plug when the air conditioner is running is running very close to maximum amps most of the time.
If the connection is loose or dirty the connection will begin to oxidize when that happens the high current will cause heat to build up due to the voltage drop due to the oxidization. If you do not catch this in time the plug will melt.
You will have to replace the plug on your surge protector. Many places sell the required 30 amp plug.
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Chuck & Sandra
Engineer/Teacher
2010 F350 CC 6.4
2015 Prime Time Sanibel 3601
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08-03-2020, 01:17 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clr
That is fairly common with 30 amp service in an RV. The 30 amp plug when the air conditioner is running is running very close to maximum amps most of the time.
If the connection is loose or dirty the connection will begin to oxidize when that happens the high current will cause heat to build up due to the voltage drop due to the oxidization. If you do not catch this in time the plug will melt.
You will have to replace the plug on your surge protector. Many places sell the required 30 amp plug.
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Thanks, and yes, the AC was on 24/7 for the 7 days in 95° and high humidity.
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-03-2020, 05:47 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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That was cause by a loose connection on the blades of the plug.
Over time/age/wear and high amperage make the male and the female parts get hot because of arcing which make heat, which makes more arcing until it melts the rubber and burns up the plugs.
Its just worn and loose plug receptacle.
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08-03-2020, 06:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
That was cause by a loose connection on the blades of the plug.
Over time/age/wear and high amperage make the male and the female parts get hot because of arcing which make heat, which makes more arcing until it melts the rubber and burns up the plugs.
Its just worn and loose plug receptacle.
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The surge protector is about 7 years old, so that sounds about right.
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-04-2020, 01:26 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
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Would using dialectric grease have prevented that?
We had a similar thing happen. Researching the cause and solution led us to the benefit if using dialectric grease for connections. There are many applications for it.
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08-04-2020, 01:47 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimmary
We had a similar thing happen. Researching the cause and solution led us to the benefit if using dialectric grease for connections. There are many applications for it.
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I thought dielectric grease did NOT conduct electricity and should not be used for connection applications. I coat my battery terminals with it (after the connection is made) to reduce corrosion.
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Old- 2002 21 Roo
New- 2015 Shamrock 23 IKSS
TV- 2010 Nissan Titan CC
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08-04-2020, 01:47 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimmary
We had a similar thing happen. Researching the cause and solution led us to the benefit if using dialectric grease for connections. There are many applications for it.
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That can help but doesn't help with a loose connection over time.
Here is a picture of my Progressive power monitor direct connected.
Was installed in 2012 when I bought my motohome.
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08-04-2020, 01:49 PM
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#9
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Part-Time Campground Host
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wharfrat48
I thought dielectric grease did NOT conduct electricity and should not be used for connection applications. I coat my battery terminals with it (after the connection is made) to reduce corrosion.
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X2
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.
The 846 Carbon Conductive Grease is an electrically conductive silicone grease for improving electrical connections between sliding surfaces and parts. The 846 grease is designed to lubricate while maintaining good grounding connection.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-...30323065&psc=1
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Craig & Cath
2018 2902WS Rockwood Ultra Lite (with tons of Mods)
2022 F250 Lariat Super Cab, 7.3 gas w/10 Spd Xmsn
Equalizer Hitch w/4-Point Sway Control
Days camped since 2015(retirement): 1687
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08-04-2020, 01:54 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,472
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I believe dielectric grease is a non conductor. You might be better with Deoxit. It is a cleaner and lube that improves contact.
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You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand
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08-04-2020, 02:11 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 578
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FWIW
Here's a product recommended to me for electrical plugs & connections. I have not used it yet, and I am no expert, so I am interested in any "expert" or "experience" comments on this product for RV use.
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Tube...dp/B00HSW341A/
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2006 FR Salem 32SRV-LE 5th Wheel Toy-Hauler
2006 F250 Superduty 6.0 Lariat 4x4 Off Road
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08-04-2020, 07:23 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Wow, ok, so I was under the impression that dielectric grease not only stopped corrosion but also helped in conducting electricity. I bathed my snow plow connection pins in this thinking I was doing the right thing. Now I have to buy the other stuff and put it on the connections. Thanks for the advice!
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-04-2020, 08:24 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
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You should look at the progressive industries hard wired version. I’ve had mine for years and never had a problem. All the Di-electric grease in the world isn’t going to help light duty wiring and cheap connections.
Bob
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08-04-2020, 08:46 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 67
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I have the same unit and the plug became loose. Found it close to us leaving on long trip so i sacrificed my dog bone adapter and replaced the plug. Didnt use my adapter much anyway. Pretty easy to replace.
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08-04-2020, 08:59 PM
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#15
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Canadian Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,238
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Bilcin, it looks like you have an aftermarket male plug on your 30A power cord. I would suspect that plug for the loose connection that caused the arcing.
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2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
2019 Rockwood Signature 8290BS (2019 - 2022)
2011 Rockwood Signature 8293SS (2015 - 2018)
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
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08-05-2020, 10:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 641
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If you look at your picture of the copper ground and neutral pins they have a lot of oxidation on them. This oxidation will create resistance which = heat and the burned/melted hot / 120 volt blade. They should be a bright copper color to slightly dull in color. Keep your plug connections clean. Use some sand paper or file to clean the oxidation from the male or female plug connections. MAKE SURE ELECTRICAL POWER IS OFF BEFORE YOU CLEAN YOUR PLUGES.
Hope this helps Tim
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08-05-2020, 12:40 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhillyLEO
You should look at the progressive industries hard wired version. I’ve had mine for years and never had a problem. All the Di-electric grease in the world isn’t going to help light duty wiring and cheap connections.
Bob
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Yes, I will be looking into the permanent unit!
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-05-2020, 12:41 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Yes, I have learned that dirty pins create headaches! Thanks for your post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVWulp
If you look at your picture of the copper ground and neutral pins they have a lot of oxidation on them. This oxidation will create resistance which = heat and the burned/melted hot / 120 volt blade. They should be a bright copper color to slightly dull in color. Keep your plug connections clean. Use some sand paper or file to clean the oxidation from the male or female plug connections. MAKE SURE ELECTRICAL POWER IS OFF BEFORE YOU CLEAN YOUR PLUGES.
Hope this helps Tim
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__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-05-2020, 12:43 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itat
Bilcin, it looks like you have an aftermarket male plug on your 30A power cord. I would suspect that plug for the loose connection that caused the arcing.
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You are correct, my original plug to the trailer melted in the same spot and replaced it with this aftermarket plug. I will have to be more vigilant with these electrical connections!
__________________
Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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08-05-2020, 09:06 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilcin
Yes, I will be looking into the permanent unit!
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I sent you a pm.
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Bill & Cindy McKenna
Philadelphia PA
2015 Palomino Puma 32DBKS
2005 Ford Excursion 6 liter Turbo Diesel
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