One of the things we liked about our new camper was the dual AC here in the midwest it can get hot and muggy and we found our old camper the AC just could not keep up on the hot days.
Until I found out what a huge pain in the butt this cord is that came with the camper. Its like SUPER stiff I am sure its the factory one and they didn't use the best cord. So I am thinking getting a new more flexible power cord and turn that one into an extension cord I would only use in emergencies.
Many of the choices at etrailer look a little better but still not super flexible.
or just buying some 6/4 SOOW at the electrical supply house and putting on my own ends. I know it would be more flexible and a little lighter but I would not have the sealed ends
Here ya go. I purchased a 30 foot unterminated cable from them and just added my own connectors. It is a carryout drop cord that runs from the shore pedestal to my unit and I plug it into the supplied (permanently) installed cable. I have only had to pull about 3 feet of that cable out a couple times due to shore pedestal distance from coach. This cable can be coiled up into an 8" diameter to give you an idea of flexibility and temperature has no effect. This flyer does show the pre-terminated cables.
Here ya go. I purchased a 30 foot unterminated cable from them and just added my own connectors. It is a carryout drop cord that runs from the shore pedestal to my unit and I plug it into the supplied (permanently) installed cable. I have only had to pull about 3 feet of that cable out a couple times due to shore pedestal distance from coach. This cable can be coiled up into an 8" diameter to give you an idea of flexibility and temperature has no effect. This flyer does show the pre-terminated cables.
Thanks
Looks like they are just using SOW cord instead of soow. But they can be even more flexible because they are make a 6/3 + 8/1 instead of a 6/4 cord
My Motorhome delivered power cable is 6/3-8/1(ground). I called Glendinning direct at the number on the flyer. Have been using the cable for 10 years (2 motorhomes) with no issues (typically on the road 4 months a year at various commercial campgrounds; I don't boondock)). I did just order the bulk cable and terminated it myself. Not cheap. Maybe not for your application.
Assuming you have the standard twist-on electrical cord on your fifth wheel, go to Lowes, etc. and get a 50 amp electric clothes dryer cord. It will have a standard 50 amp male plug on one end and four wires on the other. Buy a replacement female screw-on fitting and add it to the other end of the dryer cord. So now you have a 4' 50 amp extension. Now make/buy a 10' 50 amp extension cord with standard 50 amp male and female ends
This arrangement will handle 90% of your electrical needs at most campgrounds without having to screw around with the 50' monster
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Kayo
2014 Primetime Sanibel 3051 pulled by a 2013 Chevy Silverado 3500HP dually diesel. Full timers wince 2003 with DW of 53 year. NPS Park Ranger
I have a 50A cord that came with my trailer. PIA to handle, especially in rain. I bought 50A/50A dog leg, and 50A 2 extension cords. Much easier to handle. Only use what I really need. P/U with 1 hand and stow.
Assuming you have the standard twist-on electrical cord on your fifth wheel, go to Lowes, etc. and get a 50 amp electric clothes dryer cord. It will have a standard 50 amp male plug on one end and four wires on the other. Buy a replacement female screw-on fitting and add it to the other end of the dryer cord. So now you have a 4' 50 amp extension. Now make/buy a 10' 50 amp extension cord with standard 50 amp male and female ends
This arrangement will handle 90% of your electrical needs at most campgrounds without having to screw around with the 50' monster
I wish that was the case. For us it would only work about 10% of the time. We camp in mostly county parks where 1 power pole feeds two camp sites.
It sounds like you might be sharing a 30A pole? You can do the same as I said before. You might also want to consider a surg-guard device to protect you from other's electrical problem. If you are a 50A coach, and your pole is 30A, you can get an adapter to feed the 30A to your coach.
Assuming you have the standard twist-on electrical cord on your fifth wheel, go to Lowes, etc. and get a 50 amp electric clothes dryer cord. It will have a standard 50 amp male plug on one end and four wires on the other. Buy a replacement female screw-on fitting and add it to the other end of the dryer cord. So now you have a 4' 50 amp extension. Now make/buy a 10' 50 amp extension cord with standard 50 amp male and female ends
This arrangement will handle 90% of your electrical needs at most campgrounds without having to screw around with the 50' monster
It makes me uncomfortable to think about using connectors in a non-standard way like this. Sooner or later someone is going to plug that patch cable into a real 240 volt outlet and burn out the converter and microwave and maybe more.
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Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
It makes me uncomfortable to think about using connectors in a non-standard way like this. Sooner or later someone is going to plug that patch cable into a real 240 volt outlet and burn out the converter and microwave and maybe more.
Huh?...
A 50a R/V service and the cords described in your quoted post are 240v.
All the person was saying is to use a 4 wire dryer cord to make a short 4' cord (since that's about their typical length) and then make up a 10' cord and between those two they may never need the factory supplied, heavy to carry, 50a cord.
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2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
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A 50a R/V service and the cords described in your quoted post are 240v.
All the person was saying is to use a 4 wire dryer cord to make a short 4' cord (since that's about their typical length) and then make up a 10' cord and between those two they may never need the factory supplied, heavy to carry, 50a cord.
As I read it, he was making a short patch cord to connect a 50 amp trailer (two 120v circuits) using the different plugs that are usually used with a 240 volt circuit, presumably in the middle of two cords that have the conventional RV plug/receptacle.
Since you've caused me to look back at it, I see less potential for electrical damage, but I'm really confused here.
The pedestal receptacle has four pins: two flats for the two hots, a round for the ground, and another flat for the neutral.
The dryer cord has four pins: two flats for the two hots, a round for the ground, and an L-shaped pin for the neutral.
How ya' gonna fit an L-shaped peg in a rectangle hole?
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
After looking around I think I am going to get This Cable from Walmart It's a 6/3 + 8/1 SEOW cord which is the most flexable jacket there is. May cut it to like 36' foot and put the RV ends on it.
It makes me uncomfortable to think about using connectors in a non-standard way like this. Sooner or later someone is going to plug that patch cable into a real 240 volt outlet and burn out the converter and microwave and maybe more.
120/240 50 amp RV service is REAL 240 just like your house. Nothing different.
Been using this setup for six years, no shorts, no meltdowns, and no more muscling that 50' 50am0 cord. See the writeup that was done in the Escapees magazine several months ago/
Wiring is not rocket science
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Kayo
2014 Primetime Sanibel 3051 pulled by a 2013 Chevy Silverado 3500HP dually diesel. Full timers wince 2003 with DW of 53 year. NPS Park Ranger
Been using this setup for six years, no shorts, no meltdowns, and no more muscling that 50' 50am0 cord. See the writeup that was done in the Escapees magazine several months ago/
like our coach, from the factory, it has a 'twist lock' plug on the end that you have to attach to the coach, itself, which requires you to remove it, and the whole cord, and store...not fun, as handling the whole cord is the real issue - there's little way to 'only use what you really need'...
now, what I decided to do was to 'move' my outside 'twist lock' connection for the shore cord to a more 'DIRECT' connection, which is to the ATS(auto transfer switch box) itself. Since the factory basically routed the shore cord wiring out of the ATS, thru a wiring chase in the DEF bay, thru/over the rear Chassis, and back to the point where the 'twist lock' connector is mounted on the side wall, I decided to remove all of that 'extra' length, and basically pulled it out thru all of the those places, leaving the 'twist lock' connector now empty(which I eventually used as an additional 120v connection for an extension cord out to a 15/20amp outlet, if needed).
I removed the cover to the 'twist lock' side wall connector, exposing the 'male' end of the twist lock internally, then removing that connector, and then being able to pull that raw wiring all the way back to the DEF bay.
I then simply added a 'junction box' between the ATS wiring and the new 'end' of the shore cord, mounted on the sidewall of the DEF bay.
NOW my shore cord STORES in the DEF bay, and I ONLY have to bring out the amount I really need, never having to 'handle'/'pick up' the whole shore cord. What a relief!
Why the factory didn't do this form the beginning, I'll never understand. I don't understand the 'need' to have a separate 'twist lock' connector on the outside of the coach - it just makes it an aggravating scenario each and every time you arrive, or leave.
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The Turners...
'07 Rockwood Signature Ultralight...
two Campers and two Electric cars : )
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