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Old 06-05-2017, 09:51 PM   #1
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New Owner/Anode Rod

Hi everyone, as each day passes I am less and less a noob, but still lots of questions. I feel like I should have checked this sooner, but I am wondering about my anode rod. Have a 2014 Wildwood KQBTS. Purchased it in the fall, and I have been using it, mostly on weekends since April. I assume that before I took it off the lot, this was checked, but I, personally, have no idea about the current condition of the anode rod. When I checked my materials, I am not seeing a manual. From watching a few videos, it seems I likely have a Suburban water heater. I am wondering what sized socket is typical for these: 1 1/16th...? I am seeing that after doing a few google searches.

Pic
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5y...ew?usp=sharing

As always,
I appreciate your help!
Joe
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:01 PM   #2
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Yes, should be 1-1/16". I've attached some Suburban water heater-related docs for you. Pg 21 of the first one has a drawing of what the anode sort of looks like as it deteriorates.

Also, you can run electric (assuming you have shore power available) and gas at the same time if you want to. It should recover faster and give you a little bit more hot water if you do. But you don't have to if you don't want to. It's up to you.
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:04 PM   #3
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Chances are your anode rod is fine. I'm still using the same one that came with my '12. (Though it's getting close.)

But you should still pick up a proper sized socket, since most likely you'll need it to drain the HW tank to winterized it this fall. My socket's in the trailer in storage, so I can't double check, but 1 1/16 sounds about right.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:11 AM   #4
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Best to check the anode rod at least once a year. Depending on your area and the water.......I had a brand new last April and it almost down to nothing by Dec.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:23 AM   #5
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Be careful with anode rods. You want a genuine Suburban magnesium replacement rod, not an aluminum one. The aluminum ones last longer but provide less cathodic protection for the steel tank.

I replace mine yearly as a rule and I wash out the tank inside with a hose and jet nozzle when I change it because the anode rod flakes off and lays on the tank bottom.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk View Post
Chances are your anode rod is fine. I'm still using the same one that came with my '12. (Though it's getting close.)

But you should still pick up a proper sized socket, since most likely you'll need it to drain the HW tank to winterized it this fall. My socket's in the trailer in storage, so I can't double check, but 1 1/16 sounds about right.
Life of the rod depends entirely on the mineral content of the water you run through the heater. My rule of thumb is change it every fall (I put a new one in place of the old one for spring install).

They are cheap insurance.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:27 AM   #7
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Just to caution you, release the pressure in your water heater before removing the Anode rod, if not you will get a shower. ask me how i know this
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:35 AM   #8
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Just to caution you, release the pressure in your water heater before removing the Anode rod, if not you will get a shower. ask me how i know this
I'm guilty of taking a couple of those "showers" myself.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:50 AM   #9
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The anode rods are inexpensive so when you get a replacement, get two. That way when you pull it after having some bad water, you can simply replace it. As mentioned, the life of the rod is dependent in the quality of the water. If it is being sacrificed quickly, you are most likely generating lots of "white crud" in the tank so clean it regularly and try not to back drain the cold water through the cold line to the low point drain. ( drain WH before opening low point drain). Also you will lengthen the life of the rod significantly if you drain the water heater after each trip.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:03 PM   #10
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Just to caution you, release the pressure in your water heater before removing the Anode rod, if not you will get a shower. ask me how i know this
If you still have pressure in the tank, the anode rod will fight you all the way to the last thread, then BOOM!

If the pressure's off, you can generally spin it out by hand after the initial loosening.
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:52 PM   #11
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Keith Walker & Jennifer Terry with Airxcel, Inc Ė Suburban Division have provided the FRF membership with a great series of videos done directly by Suburban regarding their water heaters.

We put these 5 videos in the FAQ section here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1527599

The very first one goes over the anode rod, and here is a link to it in particular:

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