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Old 03-21-2016, 12:55 PM   #21
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I do have water pressure at the shower, no water pressure at the bathroom sink, toilet, or kitchen sink. All outside faucets work, including the outside kitchen, and the shower works.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:57 PM   #22
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Also, I'm not on public water, I'm using the fresh water tank on the camper
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:13 PM   #23
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Call the dealer.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:34 PM   #24
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You can try to back flush system using air. depressurize system, open hot and cold low point drains,put water heater in by-pass mode, use 30 psi air and open cold kitchen sink faucet, remove aerator and push air through faucet.Water and debris (if present) will drain out. Do same for hot water. Now put everything back to normal and try your system and see if you get water at kitchen sink. If it works then repeat for other non working fixtures......good luck.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:41 PM   #25
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Your description of "shut off like a valve closing" is an indication of something blocking the water lines. I doubt that anything you do depressurizing and repressurizing will clear it at this point. You have two separate water lines feeding faucets in the bathroom and kitchen and since both of them are not working (no hot or cold) when the shower works, my first guess would be crud blockages in the faucets and toilet valve. Faucet blockages of this type are usually at the aerator but, since you've cleaned out yours and still have no water, the blockage should be in the faucet's internal water lines.

The easiest way to check this would be to disconnect one of the feed lines for a faucet or the toilet then turn on the pump. If water comes out of the line then the blockages are in the faucets/toilet valve. If removing the faucet valves doesn't turn up the blockage, the only way to remove it is to back flush the faucet using an adapter that allows hooking a hose up to the faucet instead of the aerator. I'd do this with the water lines disconnected and faucet valves removed. It may be easiest to remove the entire faucet from the RV and do it outside. Compessed air may also be able to clear out the blockage. In any case, you don't want to try to push the blockage back through the water lines.

If you have a petal flush toilet, it may be easier to disconnect the water line at the toilet and see if you can get water from it. Replacement Thetford toilet valves are less than $30 and can be ordered through Amazon. On my Georgetown, I was able to remove the toilet valve without removing the toilet, not following Thetford's recommended procedure. After I replaced my leaking one, I discovered that my leaking one may be repairable even though Thetford said that it couldn't be disassembled to replace the leaking washer. If you unhook the water feed for the toilet, you should get a replacement cone washer for the fitting when you put it back together. Cone washers may only be available from an RV parts store because they're an odd size that's not part of the standard cone washer replacement kit. When tightening the water connection to the toilet, make it snug then tighten 1/4 turn. If it leaks, tighten in additional 1/8 turn increments until it stops leaking. (Please don't ask me how I know this - I have a nice collection of squashed cone washers.)

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Old 03-21-2016, 09:20 PM   #26
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X2 on what pmsherman has posted. I find it hard to believe that both feed lines clogged at the same time. The kitchen connections are probably the easiest to get to to do your test.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:58 AM   #27
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What exactly is white crud, and can it make one sick?
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:59 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post
Your description of "shut off like a valve closing" is an indication of something blocking the water lines. I doubt that anything you do depressurizing and repressurizing will clear it at this point. You have two separate water lines feeding faucets in the bathroom and kitchen and since both of them are not working (no hot or cold) when the shower works, my first guess would be crud blockages in the faucets and toilet valve. Faucet blockages of this type are usually at the aerator but, since you've cleaned out yours and still have no water, the blockage should be in the faucet's internal water lines.

The easiest way to check this would be to disconnect one of the feed lines for a faucet or the toilet then turn on the pump. If water comes out of the line then the blockages are in the faucets/toilet valve. If removing the faucet valves doesn't turn up the blockage, the only way to remove it is to back flush the faucet using an adapter that allows hooking a hose up to the faucet instead of the aerator. I'd do this with the water lines disconnected and faucet valves removed. It may be easiest to remove the entire faucet from the RV and do it outside. Compessed air may also be able to clear out the blockage. In any case, you don't want to try to push the blockage back through the water lines.

If you have a petal flush toilet, it may be easier to disconnect the water line at the toilet and see if you can get water from it. Replacement Thetford toilet valves are less than $30 and can be ordered through Amazon. On my Georgetown, I was able to remove the toilet valve without removing the toilet, not following Thetford's recommended procedure. After I replaced my leaking one, I discovered that my leaking one may be repairable even though Thetford said that it couldn't be disassembled to replace the leaking washer. If you unhook the water feed for the toilet, you should get a replacement cone washer for the fitting when you put it back together. Cone washers may only be available from an RV parts store because they're an odd size that's not part of the standard cone washer replacement kit. When tightening the water connection to the toilet, make it snug then tighten 1/4 turn. If it leaks, tighten in additional 1/8 turn increments until it stops leaking. (Please don't ask me how I know this - I have a nice collection of squashed cone washers.)

Phil
I really doubt that this is actually what the problem is. OP stated that all 3 (2 sinks and a toilet) stopped working at the same time and his bathroom sink quit while he was using it and it stopped like someone turned off a valve. It would be somewhat miraculous for crud to stop all 3 lines that fast, hot and cold. There's something else amiss besides crud in the lines. With crud in lines, it would slowly stop the water, unless it was at the aerator (which it's not).
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:27 AM   #29
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I really doubt that this is actually what the problem is. OP stated that all 3 (2 sinks and a toilet) stopped working at the same time and his bathroom sink quit while he was using it and it stopped like someone turned off a valve. It would be somewhat miraculous for crud to stop all 3 lines that fast, hot and cold. There's something else amiss besides crud in the lines. With crud in lines, it would slowly stop the water, unless it was at the aerator (which it's not).
This is exactly my feeling, for everything to stop all at once is very odd for a clog. My experience wih clogs is water flow, over time, becomes slowly weaker, but does not simply stop...There must be a valve somewhere downstream of the shower, feeding the sink and toilet, because the shower works fine.
Thanks
Also, what exactly is White Crud?
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:29 AM   #30
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This is exactly my feeling, for everything to stop all at once is very odd for a clog. My experience wih clogs is water flow, over time, becomes slowly weaker, but does not simply stop...There must be a valve somewhere downstream of the shower, feeding the sink and toilet, because the shower works fine.
Thanks
Also, what exactly is White Crud?
Calcium deposits in the water heater.
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:32 AM   #31
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Did you maybe deploy a Slide or Support under your unit and "Smash the Line"? White Crud is what "ALL W/H" have in the Tank after use! Youroo!!
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:49 AM   #32
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Did you maybe deploy a Slide or Support under your unit and "Smash the Line"?
I dont think I crushed a line from the slide, because everything was working fine after the camper was placed. Looking in the basement, I see a single cold line, and a single hot line going up to the bathroom. I believe these lines feed the shower, and T-off to the sink and toilet. I would love to trace those two lines once they disappear through the floor and see where they go.

In my camper, the wall on the other side of the shower, is an open linen closet. I'm pretty sure if I take this out, I'll see the water lines going to the shower valve. Anybody ever take a cabinet out of an RV? Looks like most of the cabinets are simply "tacked" in there by screws into plywood.Thanks
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:10 AM   #33
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I dont think I crushed a line from the slide, because everything was working fine after the camper was placed. Looking in the basement, I see a single cold line, and a single hot line going up to the bathroom. I believe these lines feed the shower, and T-off to the sink and toilet. I would love to trace those two lines once they disappear through the floor and see where they go.

In my camper, the wall on the other side of the shower, is an open linen closet. I'm pretty sure if I take this out, I'll see the water lines going to the shower valve. Anybody ever take a cabinet out of an RV? Looks like most of the cabinets are simply "tacked" in there by screws into plywood.Thanks
Yes took out our Tall closet out of the Bath room to make it Deep enough to use "Real people Size Coat hangers" took me ALL day to remove! They are placed "Before the Roof is installed" so I had to "Dismantle it Piece by piece as it was "Sandwiched between the Floor and Roof'! Added 5" to depth,should have been this way from Factory! Little Job turned into a Big Job! Youroo!!
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:45 AM   #34
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Little Job turned into a Big Job! Youroo!!
Great...Unless somebody has a better idea, I believe I have to get to the shower lines. I know I only have one set (hot & cold) lines going to the bathroom, so it seems to me, the first part of solving the no water pressure at the sink and toilet, is to answer the question: Why does the shower have pressure?

What would rally be handy is to have a scope/camera which I can stick up through the hole where the water lines disappear to see what is going on there. I've seen them at Home Depot, but they're expensive.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:08 AM   #35
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I bought the camper brand new. I now remember the salesman telling me they always flush all their campers they receive, before they sale them, to get rid of all the manufacturing debris. So it sounds like this particular dealer knew of the white crud issue from previous sales, and maybe that is why they flush all their new campers first.
If there is white crud in my camper, where would it collect, other than the airators, because I already checked them.
Thanks
"they always flush all their campers they receive, before they sale them"

Our dealer sure wishes he had cleaned ALL our tanks, lots of blue/black tank stuff blocked ALL sinks and toilets in 1 day, the shower kept working.
He really REALLY wishes he had cleaned the black tank, the 3" disk left in blocked the drain .

Think about this.
If 1 water line leaves the fresh water tank and goes to the pump and 1 lines leaves the pump (this would be the only place for 1 valve to block hot and cold water = ?no water at the showers either?).

Try this, no tools needed.

Turn your pump off.
Turn the hot and cold on at the shower.
Wait for the water to stop.
Disconnect the water line at the toilet (easiest place to check for water flow), no tools needed.
Turn the pump back on.

Let us know if you have water flow at the toilet hose.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:14 AM   #36
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"they always flush all their campers they receive, before they sale them"

Our dealer sure wishes he had cleaned ALL our tanks, lots of blue/black tank stuff blocked ALL sinks and toilets in 1 day, the shower kept working.
He really REALLY wishes he had cleaned the black tank, the 3" disk left in blocked the drain .

Think about this.
If 1 water line leaves the fresh water tank and goes to the pump and 1 lines leaves the pump (this would be the only place for 1 valve to block hot and cold water = ?no water at the showers either?).

Try this, no tools needed.

Turn your pump off.
Turn the hot and cold on at the shower.
Wait for the water to stop.
Disconnect the water line at the toilet (easiest place to check for water flow), no tools needed.
Turn the pump back on.

Let us know if you have water flow at the toilet hose.
You may want a helper with this. If water flows, you'll have a geyser!
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:39 PM   #37
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I'll be getting out there this weekend and I'll disconnect the toilet line and see what happens...I'll let everyone know
Thanks
Also, I'm borrowing a borascope from work, so I should be able to look up the floor hole where the hot and cold water lines disappear to the bathroom, maybe I can see something interesting...like a mouse home!
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:57 AM   #38
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I'm betting on white crud. I have a well and use that water for my TT and at the end of the season last year when I drained the HW tank for winterization, I was shocked at the crud that came out at the end. On top of that, my anode rod was about all gone, and that was from only 6 months of use. I would try depressirizing the water lines, open LP drains and attempt to back flush the system and see if that works before I start removing wall panels. The pieces of crud that came out of my HW tank would definitely plug a sink faucet stem. In fact, I hooked a plastic hose up to my shop vac and sucked all the remaining crud off the bottom of the HW tank before storage. I didn't put the anode rod back in for the winter as I wanted to try to dry the inside of the HW tank out for storage. I did place a piece of mesh screen over the opening to keep out stink bugs. Had the stink bug smelly water earlier last year and that required another sanitization process. Good luck and let us know what you find.

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Old 03-23-2016, 09:50 AM   #39
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I've never pulled the anode out, looks like a simple hex bolt connection that slides in and out, where do I get a new one for a Suburban WH?
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:56 AM   #40
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I've never pulled the anode out, looks like a simple hex bolt connection that slides in and out, where do I get a new one for a Suburban WH?
If it's a new trailer, less than a year old, I doubt very seriously if it is calcium deposits. I would go for a debris plugged elbow/tee going to the sink/toilet or at the toilet valve/faucets.
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