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Old 03-23-2016, 10:09 AM   #41
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Anode Rod

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Originally Posted by 2nd House View Post
I've never pulled the anode out, looks like a simple hex bolt connection that slides in and out, where do I get a new one for a Suburban WH?
I believe it's either 1-1/8 or 1-1/16 socket to remove. I got a new one on Amazon. Don't remember the cost, but it wasn't that bad.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:13 AM   #42
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If it's a new trailer, less than a year old, I doubt very seriously if it is calcium deposits. I would go for a debris plugged elbow/tee going to the sink/toilet or at the toilet valve/faucets.
Oldcoot. OP says it's a 2014.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:19 AM   #43
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Oldcoot. OP says it's a 2014.
I would still go for construction debris if he's never moved or changed the anode to knock anything loose and even if he did, it will not get into the cold water lines from the wh.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:12 AM   #44
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The Anode rod takes a 1-1/16th" socket. Be careful when reinstalling it not to cross thread it.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:41 AM   #45
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If you have never pulled the anode rod out how did you drain the hot water tank to see if there is white calcium deposits?
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:26 PM   #46
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If you have never pulled the anode rod out how did you drain the hot water tank to see if there is white calcium deposits?
I released pressure from the HW heater panel from the pressure valve. I was under the impression that would not only release pressure, but drain the HW heater since a lot of water came out, and very hot.
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:27 PM   #47
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I do have a boroscope, If i were to pull the anode out, would this be an avenue to actually look inside the tank? With the boroscope, I could see all around inside there.
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:53 PM   #48
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If you pull the anode, you can see most all the inside of the tank with the borescope.
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:55 PM   #49
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I released pressure from the HW heater panel from the pressure valve. I was under the impression that would not only release pressure, but drain the HW heater since a lot of water came out, and very hot.
Thanks
Opening the pressure valve will not drain the tank. Setting a can of soda on a table and popping the top might get some pressurized blow-back depending on the temperature... but it will not empty the can. Surely opening the pressure relief/release value didn't allow 6 to 10 gallons of really hot water to blow out.

I'm afraid you're gonna be disappointed thinking that looking in your water heater will yield a solution to your problem. IF you hold to this plan, please allow the water in the heater to COOL before you remove the anode rod less you end up with severe burns.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:11 PM   #50
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Is there a way to clean a Suburban WH with out taking the anode out
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:27 PM   #51
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Come on 2nd house Work with us here! You have a 2014 unit that has been used "A Lot" on well water for several years at a Seasonal location and have "Never Pulled the A-Rod/Drain plug" you are in for a Real LOT of "White CRUD" you will Not have to ask what it is after you use your New 1-1/16 socket to Remove the A-Rod/Plug! Do a Search at Top for "Flushing out a Suburban W/H Tank" then come back and tell us what "White Crud" is! Youroo!!
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:32 PM   #52
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Is there a way to clean a Suburban WH with out taking the anode out
You ask for assistance and then don't want to use the info. If you don't want to remove the anode, just remove the water heater from the camper and remove the pressure relief valve and then try to get the crud out of the bottom of the tank.

FWIW, it's not rocket science to remove the anode with a 1-1/16" socket, short extension and a breaker bar.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:43 PM   #53
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If you did this, you let air in the WH which allowed the water in the WH along with all the white crud to flow thru the plumbing to the low point drain. The low point drain is usually at the end of the plumbing line. This is what causes white crud to stop flow to faucets.

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I released pressure from the HW heater panel from the pressure valve. I was under the impression that would not only release pressure, but drain the HW heater since a lot of water came out, and very hot.
Thanks
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:37 PM   #54
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No Water at Toilet, Bathroom Sink & Kitchen Sink

I am calling 2nd house a troll. Seems to be ignoring advice from people trying to help. I know most of these helpers here , maybe meet fly bob sometime, trust the brain trust they are correct with diagnosis.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:47 PM   #55
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Since other than the WH by-pass the hot and cold water lines are separate and do not cross or connect until they exit through a faucet. blocking off the cold water line going to these faucets would not stop the hot water. If the cold water line going into the WH was blocked all hot water would stop. Also,if the hot water line was plugged the cold water would still work. White crud or other debris can stop a faucet, but would not flow into a pressurized cold water line, which is the only line that feeds the toilet. Most newer RV 12 volt pumps have a small debris filter that would clog first and stop all water.

The only logical place for any blockage is at the faucets, it is the only place that can prevent both hot or cold from working. Providing the information is correct still think the primary starting point is to check any of the feed lines at the faucets or toilet and work your way back.

Not saying anyone else is wrong just trying to step thru the plumbing system.
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