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Old 06-29-2020, 10:19 PM   #41
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That really sucks. After getting it taken out. You might want to start draining it after every trip. You might go through a little more plumbers tape but in the long run it will save you the headache and muscleache of trying to break it loose. Also your anode rod will last longer.
Again I may be wrong, I think it is pipe thread, and about 99% has tapered thread so there is no need for any plumbers tape, if not done correctly if you use it that tape ends up in the water heater
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:51 PM   #42
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It's stuck because of gunk on the threads. Take a small hammer and tap on it a few times. Try loosening it and tap again if it doesn't come loose. Repeat as required. I'll bet the anode is almost gone.



Don't use anything on the threads when you put the new one on because it requires a very good electrical connection. Remove it as often as you like.
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:51 AM   #43
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We have this teflon tape conflict come up from time to time here on the forums, which I am copying a previous post over to this thread. Suburban states to use it on their anode rod package when installing an anode rod:



and they also state to use it in their official 5 videos, which they have provided our forums with, and we keep here at this link:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...es-135977.html



For those who may be lucky enough to get by without the tape, that may good for them, but not perhaps a best practice idea, nor one to be promoted over the actual manufacturers recommendations.


A lot of the aftermarket anodes, even come with teflon tape
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:06 AM   #44
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T If you use Teflon tape don't use too much, maybe use an anti seize compound (available at an auto parts store).
One wrap of Teflon Tape should do it.

Id be VERY hesitant to use any anti-seize compound. I have NO Idea what chemicals are in there that will leach into the hot water.................and subsequently poison us.

No, I had good luck with Teflon Tape and being certain to tighten the anode enough to insure contact on the threads
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Old 06-30-2020, 08:45 AM   #45
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Old 06-30-2020, 09:41 AM   #46
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I have been using plumbers tape for many years and not a single problem. If my memory serves me right I also think the owners manual states to use it. I do use the blue type it seems to hold better and is a little more durable. One other thing I do after removing the anode rod is flush our the tank real good using a tank flush hose and fresh water then I keep the anode removed until our next trip which allows the tank to air dry and like I said in my previous post it will save the life of your anode rod because it won't be in a full tank of water.
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Old 06-30-2020, 09:54 AM   #47
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2 Years???? I remove mine whenever the RV will be sitting unused for more than a couple of weeks. Water should not be sitting in the WH for long periods of time. I always use teflon tape on the threads.
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:46 AM   #48
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Teflon tape was invented as a less messy option for NPT. Before that plumbers always used plumbers paste on the threads which can be quite messy. Without the use of either you have to tighten it down more to prevent seepage.


I can't believe as old as most of us are so little is known about common plumbing.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:32 AM   #49
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Angry treads won't budge

lot's of good info for removing your water heater anode rod. Something I've used for years on many fasteners (nuts, bolts, anode rods, etc) is to first tighten the nut/bolt until you feel a slight movement, then loosen the fastener (using a breaker bar if necessary).

Since it's pipe threaded, you can use Teflon tape to help keep it from seizing again. just need a couple of wraps at the top of the treads to solve the seizing problem and it won't stop the electrolysis action as the treads will break the tape as it moves and tightens. Also, you only need to slightly tighten the install, I think I saw it called 'girl tighten'.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:34 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
We have this teflon tape conflict come up from time to time here on the forums, which I am copying a previous post over to this thread. Suburban states to use it on their anode rod package when installing an anode rod:



and they also state to use it in their official 5 videos, which they have provided our forums with, and we keep here at this link:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...es-135977.html



For those who may be lucky enough to get by without the tape, that may good for them, but not perhaps a best practice idea, nor one to be promoted over the actual manufacturers recommendations.


A lot of the aftermarket anodes, even come with teflon tape

Great video, thanks for posting that up.

I do all but the mineral oil in my setup process, so I think I will add that to the list.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:44 AM   #51
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2 Years???? I remove mine whenever the RV will be sitting unused for more than a couple of weeks. Water should not be sitting in the WH for long periods of time. I always use teflon tape on the threads.
My water heater never gets drained from the moment we dewinterize in the spring until it's time to winterize and button it up for the end of the season.

Been doing things this way for lots and lots of years in many different rigs and have never had an issue with water quality from the water heater.

Anyone that wants to jerk the plug/anode every time you come back from camping is certainly welcome to do so. Me... I'll just leave it in until necessary.
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Old 06-30-2020, 05:45 PM   #52
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Anode removal

1).. Put a contract out on your "Ex" if nothing else helps?

Seriously tho...

2) Sometimes you can put pressure into the "tighten" side(righty\tighty) which "may" break loose any calcification on the thread inside. THEN remove. AND...Buy a water heater wand for your next in-between anode change. Blast that tank out when you pull the old one out and get all the calcium chunks out of there. Make sure they DON'T lodge in the threads of the tank! You might consider buying a new anode replacement with clean male threads in case he cross-threaded them somewhat(you did say "ex", eh? Ho boy.,.,.,.,.,.,.).

3) For sure to use a wind or two of plumbers teflon tape on the male threads and stay away from the inner-most part of the male threads(about two threads...). This will help you get an easy bite on the heater threads when you start threading it in...safest by using your fingers to START! ONCE it starts tightening up when you're USING your ratchet\socket maybe give it about "another" 1/4 turn at the end...just don't crank it on too much( Think ahead to the end of the season!

4) At the END of the season and before storing...pull the anode, inspect, clean.
Blast the tank out, let water drain, bypass your heater with the three valves inside. Re-install your anode, with the teflon tape on, as stated in #3. You're all set again.
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:25 AM   #53
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In addition to PixelBum's suggestions, I recommend closing the water heater winter isolation valves BEFORE you remove the anode.

Pop the pressure safety to make sure there is no pressure and that it opens and then remove the anode.

Once you see how much crud collects at the bottom of the heater, you won't want that stuff getting into your cold water lines.

The goal of the anode is to avoid this:
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:02 PM   #54
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Any suggestions to loosen anode? It wont budge. I have correct size socket wrench. It's just not budging. Its been two years and I need to check it. Think my ex over tightened it. Help!
Get a 1/2 6 point socket and Use an impact wrench to loosen it. Ive helped get several off this way. It seems people like to over tighten everything and not use a good thread lubricant as well.
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:22 PM   #55
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I think the nut is 1-1/16 so a 1/2" socket probably won't work. No need for power tools. Get a socket wrench on it and whack the handle with a large rubber hammer or board, something with a little give to it. (Lefty loosie -- Righty tighty.) Use plumbers Teflon on the threads when replacing it.

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Old 10-19-2020, 03:23 PM   #56
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Use your favorite thread loosening stuff. Then a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar and cheater bar. no ratchets.

Put the DW on the end of the cheater bar and you supervise the socket. proper alignment.
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:32 PM   #57
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Good idea to take the anode out and look at it after two years. I agree with tomkatb in post #56. Try some thread penetrant and a 1 1/16 inch six point 1/2 inch drive socket with a breaker bar. It will come out. Use Teflon tape when reinstalling and you can reinstall using a small ratchet wrench. It does not have to be super tight!
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:44 PM   #58
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Any concerns about the anode plug threads not making contact with the water heater threads can be resolved by simply using a multimeter to check for continuity by putting one lead on the plug and the other on any metallic portion of the tank, with the meter set to ohms. You need to have continuity for the anode to be able to work.
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:46 PM   #59
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Pipe threads will cut thru teflon tape without effort or the use of a multimeter. Tape it and screw it in.

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Old 10-19-2020, 04:01 PM   #60
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Agreed....I posted due to concerns to overcome them. Thirty plus years as an engineer in the U. S. Coast Guard. Anodes are used in the raw water side water jackets, and the hull below the waterline, in marine applications. I'm very well acquainted with them.....
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