Any suggestions to loosen anode? It wont budge. I have correct size socket wrench. It's just not budging. Its been two years and I need to check it. Think my ex over tightened it. Help!
Any suggestions to loosen anode? It wont budge. I have correct size socket wrench. It's just not budging. Its been two years and I need to check it. Think my ex over tightened it. Help!
They can be hard. You can spray some penetrating oil on it, and let it soak a little. Make sure you are using a 1 and 1/16th size six point socket.
Have seen some people use a truck four way lug nut wrench with success.
i would use penetrating oil. it might help some. but it is going to take some leverage. and wrap the treads with teflon tape when you put an anode back in. that will help it from rusting together. it will also help it seal without having to over torque it to seal.
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2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
If you don't have a friend with forearms like Popeye, you need leverage! Put a 2 or 3 foot length of pipe over the handle of the wrench, and use that lever to double your strength.
1. 6 point 1 and 1/16” socket for exact fit.
2. Leverage extension to fit over socket handle.
3. Remember ......”righty tighty, lefty loosey”
Good luck.
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Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S with Trekker cap
and only rarely pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain toad (4 wheels down)
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count.
You can also try heating up the water first. Make aure the tank is full and let it run for a bit to heat it up. Relieve the pressure and give it a twist while hot. Don't take it out, I'm just talking about breaking it loose. Wait till it cools to do that.
It may take two to break the thing loose. At the end of the first season while winterizing I had to get my neighbor to hold the 6inch extension so the socket would stay put while I pulled on the 24 inch breaker bar with both hands. PB Blaster on the hot tank and threads didn't help and there wasn't any teflon on the threads (first time draining the wh).
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
I deserve hazard pay when camping with my relatives.
If you have any pressure (or a vacuum) in the water lines, it could be increasing the resistance of the threads. Open the pressure relief valve before trying the wrench. If the resistance is still not allowing the release of the anode rod threads, use a rubber mallet on your wrench to break it free. A rubber mallet may reduce the chances of causing damage to your tools and components.
Go down to your friendly hardware store and get a 3' length of 3/4" pipe to fit over your ratchet handle. While you are there pick up a small can of anti-seize so this never happens again. Order your anodes in pairs so you will always have one at the ready. While the anode is out, hose out the water heater. All the crystalline stuff will come rushing out. When it is clean, apply the anti-seize to the threads and tighten it "girl tight" without the breaker bar. You're good to go!
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TrawlerPhil
2014 Flagstaff Classic Ultralite 8528RKWS
2012 Tundra 5.7
2020 Tesla Model Y
Whatever you do release the pressure in the tank, open that little valve on the heater or open a faucet valve. Did i mention release the pressure? Oh and be sure to release the pressure
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2009 Ram 3500 Mega Cab
2018 Wilderness 2450FB
2014 Dodge Durango
2012 Dodge Challenger
I was never taught not to like you, you did that!
It means to run the tap into the threads to clean them up of any burrs,debris, corrosion, etc. that might be there making removal of the anode/plug difficult.
You are not creating the threads just "chasing" them.
As for me, Id not use penetrating oil, for fear it would get into and contaminate my fresh water supply through the WH.
As others have suggested, just use a LONG Cheater bar and insure the pressure has been released in the tank.
When replacing the anode use Teflon Tape on the threads to seal them and help in removal next time.
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2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
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