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03-11-2020, 04:26 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 4
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Skylight Condensation after Repair
The exterior skylight in the bathroom of our 2019 2508 Rockwood Mini Lite developed a crack on the corner which allowed water to seep inside.
The skylight was recently replaced under warranty. Water is no longer seeping inside.
However, I notice there is now an excessive amount of condensation between the exterior and interior skylights.
This is the first trailer I owned, but it seems like there should not be condensation like there is. It appears that the skylight was replaced without letting the water that seeped in before to throughtly dry.
Aesthetically, the condensation annoys me, but more importantly, I don't want the condensation to cause further damage such as mold or mildew.
Any thoughts about this situation? Is the condensation something to be concerned about? Should it have been allow to dry out before replacing the skylight?
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03-11-2020, 07:36 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 550
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I just posted about this issue on my Roo 19. I plan to remove the inner layer of plastic in the shower and put a container of Damprid in there to help dry out any materials that soaked up water. After a few weeks it should be good. Then I will remove the bubble with the crack in it, replace the inner plastic, seal any absorbent materials with penetrating epoxy and replace the bubble.
__________________
Hobienick
2020 Rockwood Roo 19
2012 F150 SuperCrew Ecoboost
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03-11-2020, 07:55 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jd2508
The exterior skylight in the bathroom of our 2019 2508 Rockwood Mini Lite developed a crack on the corner which allowed water to seep inside.
The skylight was recently replaced under warranty. Water is no longer seeping inside.
However, I notice there is now an excessive amount of condensation between the exterior and interior skylights.
This is the first trailer I owned, but it seems like there should not be condensation like there is. It appears that the skylight was replaced without letting the water that seeped in before to throughtly dry.
Aesthetically, the condensation annoys me, but more importantly, I don't want the condensation to cause further damage such as mold or mildew.
Any thoughts about this situation? Is the condensation something to be concerned about? Should it have been allow to dry out before replacing the skylight?
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Remove the inner portion and allow to dry . you may find some soggy insulation which should have been removed and replaced .
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03-11-2020, 09:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,215
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Had the same with mine. Discovered that the clear part was coming unglued slowing moisture from showers to get in between and condensing. Pulled the clear part off, cleaned as much glue off as I could. Used clear silicone to seal and gorilla tape around the edge to keep tight. No more condensation in the last month.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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03-11-2020, 12:53 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobienick
I just posted about this issue on my Roo 19. I plan to remove the inner layer of plastic in the shower and put a container of Damprid in there to help dry out any materials that soaked up water. After a few weeks it should be good. Then I will remove the bubble with the crack in it, replace the inner plastic, seal any absorbent materials with penetrating epoxy and replace the bubble.
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I saw your post about the Roo. Sounds like a good approach. Hopefully no more water or condensation and hopefully there are no leaks from the outer bubble after you get it dry
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03-11-2020, 01:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 550
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I update everyone on how stage one goes this weekend. It will be our first trip and close to home so I can get materials and tools. The wife is disappointed she will not be able to shower in it right away.
I made similar repairs on sailboats to dry out the balsa core on the deck if the intrusion wasn't too bad. Way easier than replacing it. If this is the worst thing I have to deal with I'm not upset.
I was also thinking that I could just stop drill the crack and cover it with Eternabond since it is small and I was going to spray with white plastidip anyways.
__________________
Hobienick
2020 Rockwood Roo 19
2012 F150 SuperCrew Ecoboost
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03-11-2020, 04:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,739
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No pressure on it
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobienick
I update everyone on how stage one goes this weekend. It will be our first trip and close to home so I can get materials and tools. The wife is disappointed she will not be able to shower in it right away.
I made similar repairs on sailboats to dry out the balsa core on the deck if the intrusion wasn't too bad. Way easier than replacing it. If this is the worst thing I have to deal with I'm not upset.
I was also thinking that I could just stop drill the crack and cover it with Eternabond since it is small and I was going to spray with white plastidip anyways.
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There's no pressure on it. Why not use clear RTV instead of white Eternabond? That will be plenty to stop moisture intrusion.
__________________
Larry
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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03-11-2020, 04:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 550
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I never use silicone on anything. Once it bonds to a surface it is not coming off. Not chemically or mechanically. And nothing, not even more silicone will ever bond to it.
Aside from that short rant, I could use waterproof duct tape. The crack is very short for now so tape won't be noticeable and it's pretty easy. Plus, I am not sure why it cracked to begin with. Is it flex in that area of the roof, maybe an over torqued fastener? Tape will give more support to the area than RTV. Especially if I put it on both sides.
I admit, I am probably over engineering this.
__________________
Hobienick
2020 Rockwood Roo 19
2012 F150 SuperCrew Ecoboost
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03-11-2020, 09:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,739
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Two kinds of vents
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobienick
I never use silicone on anything. Once it bonds to a surface it is not coming off. Not chemically or mechanically. And nothing, not even more silicone will ever bond to it.
Aside from that short rant, I could use waterproof duct tape. The crack is very short for now so tape won't be noticeable and it's pretty easy. Plus, I am not sure why it cracked to begin with. Is it flex in that area of the roof, maybe an over torqued fastener? Tape will give more support to the area than RTV. Especially if I put it on both sides.
I admit, I am probably over engineering this.
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Our trailers have two kinds of vents, the heavy (1/4" thick?) fixed polycarbonate vents. and the flimsy vents that crank open.
When cracks showed up on the heavy vents, I simply covered them with a bead of hot-melt glue. It's been good for five years now.
The thin vents get brittle after 4-5 years and an airborne pine cone or pine branch goes right through them. They are $11 at Amazon and take 20-30 minutes to change. Not worth fixing. I should probably keep a spare on hand.
__________________
Larry
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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03-12-2020, 05:50 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobienick
I am not sure why it cracked to begin with. Is it flex in that area of the roof, maybe an over torqued fastener?
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I believe that the crack in your skylight is known to Forest River to be an issue with some skylights.
The crack in your skylight sounds exactly what happened to mine. Our camper was about 6 months old before our developed a crack. It appeared to be caused by flex or being over torqued like you mention, but who knows, possible defect in workmanship quality control maybe.
I uploaded a picture of the crack in my skylight.
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