Small cut on roof, small soft spot under

[jsweazy]

I have a 2017 Coachmen Catalina 263RLS. Had it a the shop today and they found a 1 inch cut or tear on the roof near the AC unit. They sealed over it with a little bit Dicor, but there is a small soft area around the tear (2 inches across) and the plywood feels rough under the rubber, maybe 2 square feet. No visible problem inside. To repair it properly, they suggest pulling the roof material, replace the plywood piece affected, put on a new roof. Cost - $5k - $6k. So options - full repair, ins may or may not cover it ($1,000 deduct), leave it as is and stay off that part of the roof, or some other way to patch it without replacing the roof? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, John

[dalford]

Do not replace your roof. I have a buddy who had the same issue On his Montana. See pics attached. It started from a small pin hole.

He did a neat cut back of the roof to expose the damaged wood. He used this epoxy material to reinforce it so it was not spongy.. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After the epoxy set up he glued the roof back down with Lucas Universal Single-Ply Adhesive #8800. This is for EDPM material. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail...kaAguHEALw_wcB

He then covered the cuts with eternabond and Dicor. Good as new...

The small hole next to the penny caused all that damage..

[dalford]

Oh, by the way... welcome to the forum from the Space Coast of Florida...

[dalford]

My buddy also just told me after the epoxy dried that he used some wood filler to level it out before gluing down. Seems you can do this for <$200 if your handy and have good weather..

[handymanj56]

I agree with dalford.....that's a very good way to fix it.. probably around 100$ if that....and aseticly would not look bad.

[jsweazy]

Thanks, very interesting solution. So, I would just need to use the epoxy where it is soft?

[handymanj56]

You can get a liquid wood harder put maybe 2 to 3 coats depending how the rot is and I was thinking " just a thought " bondo? Or the epoxy
Wood hardener is sold at home depot

[dalford]

Originally Posted by jsweazy

Thanks, very interesting solution. So, I would just need to use the epoxy where it is soft?

Yes

[jsweazy]

I have never done any roof repair, just re-sealing. I assume that I would put the eternabond down first and then seal over it with Dicor?

[dalford]

Originally Posted by jsweazy

I have never done any roof repair, just re-sealing. I assume that I would put the eternabond down first and then seal over it with Dicor?

Yes, that is what my buddy did. I’m not really sure you need the Dicor. Once you stick down the eternabond it will not go anywhere. I think he did as an over abundance of caution.

Just put the EB over the cut seams. You don’t need to cover the entire flap.

Also, make sure you cut, the first time, a flap bigger than the damaged area. You only want one flap. See the pic earlier.

Make sure you follow the instructions and clean the roof per eternabond instructions. Maybe others will pipe in on what they clean the roof with. Eternabond recommends and sells a product in a spray can which I used for a small tear in my roof.

Do you have a place to do this that will allow time for things to dry out.

You can do this no problem plus it will probably be better than the ‘new job’ the dealer would do and for next to no $.

I always say “It only cost you a little bit more to do it yourself.” But here you have a lot of room to make a mistake.

[jsweazy]

Great, thanks for all the info, dalford. I don't have a dry place, but I may be able to locate one. How much drying time? I might wait for the weather to cooperate if it's not too long.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by jsweazy

Great, thanks for all the info, dalford. I don't have a dry place, but I may be able to locate one. How much drying time? I might wait for the weather to cooperate if it's not too long.

My buddy had to tent his to keep the water away from the work area. You just need to let the wood dry out after you open the flap. On a good sunny day I think that could happen but a couple of days would be better.

You also need to let epoxy dry and wood filler also. I don’t know the dry times on those.

I don’t think the damage will get worse now that the leak source is covered so it won’t hurt to wait for warmer weather.

[jsweazy]

Yes, it's still damp in there but no new moisture , I guess it will be a while before I can get everything set up. Thanks again

[NoviBill]

Thanks for posting, good luck. I think I will be doing a full roof inspection next weeked.
I have had great success with eternabond.

[Tundra 2014]

I have used a product called "Rock Hard" on exterior plywood trim repair. It does not run and is sandable. It has held up over 10 years and is still hard. It is available at any hardware store. I have also used 2 part marine epoxy, the Rock Hard is easier to work with and drys in 24 hours the epoxy I used took 48 hours to be water tight. What ever you do extend the Eternalbond out several inches to insure a seal. Maybe a little overkill, just me on roof repairs.

[CedarCreekWoody]

There is a marine epoxy called "Git-Rot" that is watery thin and can be injected with a large syringe. I've not used it but heard good reports from friends with soft cores on boat hulls. It might be worth investigating. Firm up the plywood and then seal the roof covering with Eternabond.

[shadows4]

I would do as described above but one difference. I would cut the flap about 6-8 inches bigger than the rotted area. I would then take a circular saw, mark and cut the rotten wood out. Replace the rotted wood with new, add whatever braces were needed to hold the new wood in. Tape the wood seams with duct tape. Glue the flap back down and apply the eternabond. Good luck, and please document what you do and let us know how things go.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by shadows4

I would do as described above but one difference. I would cut the flap about 6-8 inches bigger than the rotted area. I would then take a circular saw, mark and cut the rotten wood out. Replace the rotted wood with new, add whatever braces were needed to hold the new wood in. Tape the wood seams with duct tape. Glue the flap back down and apply the eternabond. Good luck, and please document what you do and let us know how things go.

I don’t know about cutting a section of roof out? There is no way to know where there may be wiring, air ducts, or aluminum framing. Not sure how you would ever brace it sufficiently.

If the OP uses the RTG product I linked in my first post the soft wood will dry epoxy strong, hard as a rock. It is a thin 2 part epoxy that will soak into the particle board/plywood they use on these roofs. The patch with EB will stop the leak and the RTG will firm up the soft spot...just my 2c worth.

[safrog]

If you are going to pay that much for a foot, you may consider a company that will spray on the roof after they remove the old roof lining to charcoal for damage. Probably cost less and a lifetime warranty.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by dalford

Do not replace your roof. I have a buddy who had the same issue On his Montana. See pics attached. It started from a small pin hole.

He did a neat cut back of the roof to expose the damaged wood. He used this epoxy material to reinforce it so it was not spongy.. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After the epoxy set up he glued the roof back down with Lucas Universal Single-Ply Adhesive #8800. This is for EDPM material. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail...kaAguHEALw_wcB

He then covered the cuts with eternabond and Dicor. Good as new...

The small hole next to the penny caused all that damage..

If you decide to do this take note of how he cut the roof to open it up. The side uncut should be toward the front of the camper.

This way any wind that may ever get under the covering will tend to hold the roofing down not pull it up and off.