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Old 03-03-2020, 06:12 PM   #21
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After I dumped tank, WH, and filter canister then blew lines, I only ended up with about a half filter canister of water when all the blowing was done.
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Old 03-03-2020, 10:06 PM   #22
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I would consider running antifreeze through it now if I was worried. Just for my piece of mind. Plus the pink or red antifreeze shows up well if you have a leak. You can run everything through and then close off all the water faucet and leave the pump on and if it cuts off and stays off good chance no leaks. If it keeps running and everything is off you may have a issue. IMO
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Old 03-04-2020, 01:29 PM   #23
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For over 40 years, all we ever did was blow out the lines with air. Never had a problem. If there was no water spitting out of a valve and there was no gurgling when you winterized, you should be good.
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Old 03-04-2020, 01:32 PM   #24
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Just a thought going forward. The internet and google are your friends, and not just this forum. If you google "how to winterize a Salem trailer" you'll come up with any number of YouTube videos, etc., that will help you. That is true of almost any subject. Sometimes when you you can't figure something out, a call to your dealer will get you the information you need.
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Old 03-04-2020, 01:41 PM   #25
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If you use a water pressure regulator with a pressure gauge, pressurize the system with city water, close the faucet and watch the pressure on the gauge for a couple of hours.

When I shut the water off when we leave the RV I always do that and it never drops pressure at all. Not even in ten hours.

If you've got a leak the pressure will drop. I had a fitting at the faucet that was barely seeping water and I mean barely. I could feel it being wet but see no water. That loose fitting was enough to drop the pressure on the gauge a few psi over an hour.

Just be sure whatever faucet you're turning off does in fact turn off fully.

Another method is to fill all the lines and listen for water pump cycling. The only problem is if there is a tiny bit of air in the lines, and there usually is for a few days after de-winterizing, the pump will cycle and you may think you have a leak when you don't.

My Shurflo water pump turns off at 55 lbs psi and turns back on at 45 lbs psi so I prefer the pressure gauge method. With the faucet shut off you limit the amount of any damage from a leak.

HTH,

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Old 03-04-2020, 02:56 PM   #26
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Another note. If you do use a water pressure gauge, bring it indoors for winter. The freezing can damage the gauge.
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Old 03-04-2020, 03:12 PM   #27
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I've blowing out lines with air for at least 15 years, never an issue, except last year I forgot the toilet. Had to replace the valve. It's easy once you realize there is a small screw holding the valve in. The only concern I'd have is did you open your low point drains? I always open mine as a last step.

Also, be sure your battery case has drain holes in the bottom.
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Old 03-04-2020, 03:42 PM   #28
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Where could we expect water to spew from? The ceiling?
There are two most liely culprits. BOTH have happened to most of us one time or another.

1. the toilet fill valve on the back of the toilet, Unless you purges it VERY well with air, it will crack and send water all over when you connect. (Dont' ask how I know that)

2. Your outside shower, both hot and cold should be purged or you will be looking for a new faucet set.

Also possibly the plastic bowl just before the water pump where the filter screen is.

None of these are expensive or difficult fixes
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Old 03-04-2020, 04:43 PM   #29
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Maybe ice maker

You did not mention an ice maker. If you did not blow out the solenoid valve it (as well as the water line to the refrigerator) might have frozen and cracked - so check it if needed.
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Old 03-04-2020, 06:16 PM   #30
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I blow out my system with air but use antifreeze in the one part of the water system that can't be blown out with air.


The water pump and its intake manifold don't get cleared when using air to clear the water system. After I finish the air clearing, I use the winterize intake to fill the manifold and water pump with antifreeze. When doing this, the pump output goes into the clear filter canister, making it easy to determine that all of the water has been replaced with antifreeze.


A couple of years ago, I forgot to disconnect the shower hose after blowing the system out. Unfortunately, there was a little bit of water left between the shower valves and shower head which drained back into the (plastic) shutoff valve when I was done. Of course it froze over the winter and fractured the valve assembly. I replaced it with a higher quality valve assembly and, while checking for leaks after the repair, finally discovered the source of the water leak I'd had for over five years. The clamp on the cold water fitting at the end of the shower feed line wasn't correctly clamped and, at the highest pressure in the water system, seeped a bit. My dealer had looked twice for this leak while the rig was under warranty but could never find it.


Last year, I discovered that blowing out the water system isn't adequate to clear out the replacement motion detect faucet I installed in the bathroom. There was no issue with the electric valves but the hose from the valves to the faucet was destroyed where it attaches to the faucet. That fitting has a press fit washer in it and, if there's a single drop of water left at the washer, it'll break when the water freezes. This fitting is not repairable. My solution now is to disconnect this hose after blowing it out with air. I just have to remember to reattach it before firing up the water pump.


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Old 03-05-2020, 10:53 AM   #31
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Filter Canister is the only part I ever had freeze & Break !!!
Even though I thought I had Blown out & had added Antifreeze !!!
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Old 03-05-2020, 10:11 PM   #32
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He did winterize drains. Only thing I'm concerned with is the water pump strainer, I did not remove that. hopefully the compressed air emptied it. I did bump my pump several times.
The filter strainer is between the pump and the fresh tank. Air wont go in there because the pump has a back flow valve to prevent filling the fresh tank.

Pink stuff will go in it if you have the valve to switch to winterization instead of FW tank.
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Old 03-06-2020, 11:34 AM   #33
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Looks like I might be buying a new strainer this Spring then. Sigh. At least they are not expensive.
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Old 03-07-2020, 04:23 PM   #34
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Filter Canister is the only part I ever had freeze & Break !!!
Even though I thought I had Blown out & had added Antifreeze !!!

Filter canisters require special handling no matter how you winterize. Removing and reinstalling it almost always leaves some water embedded in the threads at the top of the canister. If you're going to leave it attached, you need to use a paper towel to dry both the male and female threads where the canister attaches to the holder before reinstalling it.


I've also found that the rubber compression ring that seals the canister has a tendency to get compressed with age and not seal very well. A simple solution is to always have a spare "O" ring available. They cost around $1.


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Old 03-08-2020, 01:39 AM   #35
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Filter canisters require special handling no matter how you winterize. Removing and reinstalling it almost always leaves some water embedded in the threads at the top of the canister. If you're going to leave it attached, you need to use a paper towel to dry both the male and female threads where the canister attaches to the holder before reinstalling it.


I've also found that the rubber compression ring that seals the canister has a tendency to get compressed with age and not seal very well. A simple solution is to always have a spare "O" ring available. They cost around $1.


Phil
I agree but found that even when dry the different plastics expand and contract at different rates. Best to keep them disconnected over the winter if you can. I do the same with the pump filter screen.

I just removed my filter all together and just use blue camco filters. It makes winterization a much simpler process and now I store water hoses where the filter was.
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Old 03-08-2020, 02:35 PM   #36
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The filter strainer is between the pump and the fresh tank. Air wont go in there because the pump has a back flow valve to prevent filling the fresh tank.

Pink stuff will go in it if you have the valve to switch to winterization instead of FW tank.
You were absolutely correct sir, I did not know this when I winterized using air only. Just went out to air things out, very low humidity now. Spun strainer bowel off and it was completely full of water. No cracks though. Won't be sure until I summerize. Worse comes to worse, the strainer ass'y is on Amazon for 14 bucks with swivel fittings. Maybe the water had somewhere it go as it expanded. Lowest temp of winter here was 8 degrees F in January, so you know it had to have froze.
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Old 03-08-2020, 03:09 PM   #37
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You were absolutely correct sir, I did not know this when I winterized using air only. Just went out to air things out, very low humidity now. Spun strainer bowel off and it was completely full of water. No cracks though. Won't be sure until I summerize. Worse comes to worse, the strainer ass'y is on Amazon for 14 bucks with swivel fittings. Maybe the water had somewhere it go as it expanded. Lowest temp of winter here was 8 degrees F in January, so you know it had to have froze.
Sometimes they are only half full of water so there is room to expand and no damage is done so give it a try.

Don't forget to check the attachmemt point as well as the pump fittings they could have cracked. Luckly the strainers are cheap $8 and if it were to fail you would not flood your trailer, your pump would just suck air...ask me how I know

I blow out early in the year so I don't have to sanitize if I want to go out again but for the deep freeze I use pink stuff.

If you end up having to swap it put one of these in while you are there. My pump constantly needed resetting because water would get by the internal check valve even with the pressure regulator. This fixed it. Then you only have to get in there once.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa...BoCJeAQAvD_BwE

Best of luck!
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Old 03-08-2020, 03:53 PM   #38
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Luckily hot water heater and pump is inside dinette bench, easy access. So if any of those parts you mentioned cracked, it would most likely suck air then, got it. Every day I come on this forum, I get a better understanding of how everything works, thanks.
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Old 03-08-2020, 09:32 PM   #39
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You were absolutely correct sir, I did not know this when I winterized using air only. Just went out to air things out, very low humidity now. Spun strainer bowel off and it was completely full of water. No cracks though. Won't be sure until I summerize. Worse comes to worse, the strainer ass'y is on Amazon for 14 bucks with swivel fittings. Maybe the water had somewhere it go as it expanded. Lowest temp of winter here was 8 degrees F in January, so you know it had to have froze.
When I winterize mine, I found tilting the RV a little toward the side where the pump is and running till nothing comes out, it not only Emptys that sediment filter but also pumps about half the water from my house filter housing. No more mess undoing the filter. After doing that, I drop the raised side and blow out the system 3 times till no mist comes out anywhere. Works for me since 2012.
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Old 03-09-2020, 06:48 PM   #40
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I guess I been doing it wrong for 20 years in my old camper. All I ever did was drain hot water tank, drain water tank. Turn on pump and run til nothing comes out any faucet. Pull low port plugs and pour some antifreeze in p traps and toilet. Never have I had one problem. I didnít start putting antifreeze in the drains until the last couple of years.
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