Spun wheel stud in hub!! My LUCK!!

[Springerdad]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

I always use anti-seize on my studs before putting the lug nuts back on. Stops a lot of the issues with galling of threads that happens. Rarely have issues when I do.

X2

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Springerdad

X2

X3

[youroo]

Clean & Dry,No lube just like the O/E MFG recommends! Youroo!!

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by youroo

Clean & Dry,No lube just like the O/E MFG recommends! Youroo!!

x2. And I have used impacts (just like NASCAR) for years and never had a stud spin on any car that I used the impact. I've had to fix a couple on my sons or my friends cars, but not on any wheel I did.

It's amazing how people will run a rusty lugnut onto a rusty stud and then wonder why they had problems, when 2 minutes with a wire wheel is all you need to ensure you won't get a spun lugnut.


Now my Toyota Rav4 has a totally different problem. You can remove all 5 nuts and probably drive 20 miles before the wheel actually comes off. I usually have to use the prybar to get the damn thing off. I did do anti-sieze on the hub flange last time. I'll see how it goes next time I pull a wheel.

Tim

[D W]

Originally Posted by SpringerPop

Yup. That situation isn't an easy one to fix.

Guess it goes without saying to NEVER put a lug nut ON with an impact.

Off, sure!

On, never!

Oh, and good practice is to start all the nuts by hand. Since you're not going to be using an impact, that's now a given.

Upon getting a new rig, I use a die on all the studs, and run a tap through all the nuts. They are usually 1/2" x 20 threads. It makes things so much easier for the entire time I own the rig.

I do that to our cars, too, though those are almost always metric threads.

Pop

X2. No doubt about it. That drum has to come off to repair it correctly. Sacrifice the center cap and get 'er done. The answer I would be looking for is why the stud is spinning? Did the use of an impact wrench break the stud splines loose in the drum? Additionally, I would take a real close look at all the lug holes on those aluminum alloy wheels to make sure none of them are cracked. Better to get it fixed in the driveway now than out along the side of the road. Just sayin'.

[TGR]

As youroo and Cowracer wrote, keep lug nuts and lugs clean and dry. NEVER use any lubricant or anti-seize on your lugs or lug nuts. Any type of lubrication will reduce the rotational friction and allow you to both over-torque the lug nuts and increases the chance the lug nuts will loosen in service.

Put the lug nuts on clean and dry, partially tighten in a pattern, not sequentially and finish off with a torque wrench to the proper torque, again in a pattern and not sequentially.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by TGR

As youroo and Cowracer wrote, keep lug nuts and lugs clean and dry. NEVER use any lubricant or anti-seize on your lugs or lug nuts. Any type of lubrication will reduce the rotational friction and allow you to both over-torque the lug nuts and increases the chance the lug nuts will loosen in service.

Put the lug nuts on clean and dry, partially tighten in a pattern, not sequentially and finish off with a torque wrench to the proper torque, again in a pattern and not sequentially.

You know... I would have called BS on this till I looked. I swear I had at least one car that had anti-seize on the threads from the factory.

[Springerdad]

This could get interesting - we may even need some popcorn. I did a quick search and there is a lot of discussion about anti seize, even by engineers. Seems quite divided among all the discussions. I guess it comes down to opinions. One thing I DID pick up on was that the solids in anti seize compounds tend to mitigate the lubricity of them.

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by Springerdad

This could get interesting - we may even need some popcorn. I did a quick search and there is a lot of discussion about anti seize, even by engineers. Seems quite divided among all the discussions. I guess it comes down to opinions. One thing I DID pick up on was that the solids in anti seize compounds tend to mitigate the lubricity of them.

It all comes down to this:

Would you rather have your lugnuts stuck on, or accidently loosen up and come off? One is an inconvenience, the other is a wreck.

Your choice.

Tim

[Springerdad]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

It all comes down to this:

Would you rather have your lugnuts stuck on, or accidently loosen up and come off? One is an inconvenience, the other is a wreck.

Your choice.

Tim

You make a good point.

Here's the flip side: the threads of either the nut or stud are rusty or galled. This time we are not putting enough clamping pressure on the assembly because of too much friction between the threads.
I can tell you this: 50 years in the automotive repair business, owning my own shop as well, of the THOUSANDS of cars we worked on, we never had a wheel off, warped rotor or damaged wheel. And trust me, if a wheel came off, the owner would have been in my face for sure.
I'm not looking for an argument,,,,, but just sharing my personal experience.

David

[A32Deuce]

The only place I would antiseize would be boat trailer lug nuts and that would be local only and in and out of salt water/bay water like coastal areas. Other wise, dry/clean nuts and studs. And engineers don't fix stuff, they just design it!

[A32Deuce]

Plus, in 61 years I have never used it on lug nuts nor had a lug nut come loose. Have had nuts crossthreaded but not by me! Bob

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

The only place I would antiseize would be boat trailer lug nuts and that would be local only and in and out of salt water/bay water like coastal areas. Other wise, dry/clean nuts and studs. And engineers don't fix stuff, they just design it!

x2 they don't install it either...

[A32Deuce]

X3!

[OldCoot]

VERY, VERY light lube on the stud threads only, DO NOT GET LUBE ON THE TAPERED PORTION OF THE NUT OR THE WHEEL!

Most torque charts will show different torques for dry or lubed threads.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

VERY, VERY light lube on the stud threads only, DO NOT GET LUBE ON THE TAPERED PORTION OF THE NUT OR THE WHEEL!

Most torque charts will show different torques for dry or lubed threads.

You are the all-powerful-and-knowing O.C., but I think that is industrial/automotive application charts.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

You are the all-powerful-and-knowing O.C., but I think that is industrial/automotive application charts.

Are we not talking about automotive parts??? Every vehicle I've bought new had a slight amount of lube on the studs. Takes years for them to rust.

Note column 4.

[f5moab]

I have never used any type of lube on a lug stud and have never had a problem removing

Can't speak for trailer manufacturers, but auto manufacturers (at least GM) states clearly in their service manuals to NOT USE LUBE.


From a 2012 GM Service manual; Tires and wheels removal/installation procedure I have on DVD....

Warning: Before installing the wheels, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or disc mounting surface by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This can cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is moving, causing loss of control and possibly personal injury.

Caution: A torque wrench or J 39544 must be used to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to specification. Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.
the nuts.

It's a pretty well known fact that lube on bolts/studs will affect the required torque of the nut or bolt. So if a person is adding lubrication to a stud, and then pulling out the torque wrench, make sure to adjust to torque. I believe the rule of thumb (but really dependent upon the lubricant used) is about 25% reduction.

As for me, I guess I'll go with what fastener engineers say is the proper way to clean torque a bolt vs. the internet opinions.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by f5moab

I have never used any type of lube on a lug stud and have never had a problem removing

Can't speak for trailer manufacturers, but auto manufacturers (at least GM) states clearly in their service manuals to NOT USE LUBE.


From a 2012 GM Service manual; Tires and wheels removal/installation procedure I have on DVD....

Warning: Before installing the wheels, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or disc mounting surface by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This can cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is moving, causing loss of control and possibly personal injury.

Caution: A torque wrench or J 39544 must be used to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to specification. Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.
the nuts.

It's a pretty well known fact that lube on bolts/studs will affect the required torque of the nut or bolt. So if a person is adding lubrication to a stud, and then pulling out the torque wrench, make sure to adjust to torque. I believe the rule of thumb (but really dependent upon the lubricant used) is about 25% reduction.

As for me, I guess I'll go with what fastener engineers say is the proper way to clean torque a bolt vs. the internet opinions.

That's how I was told how to do it in Auto Tech School. I don't do it any other way.

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

And engineers don't fix stuff, they just design it!

Disagree sir. I'm an engineer and I spend just as much of my time fixing things as I do designing new stuff. And most of the time, its fixing stuff broken by people who didn't do what the engineer told them to do in the first place.

Tim