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Old 05-25-2017, 08:16 AM   #1
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Spun wheel stud in hub!! My LUCK!!

After dealing with a cap spinning on a lug, I decided to replace all capped lugs with solid lugs. I was taking one lug off at a time and replacing with a solid lug and then torque all lugs.

2nd to last lug, I put the impact on and the lug started to spin easily. Crap, another cap spinning on lug, NOT! The lug was cross threaded and the stud is spinning in the hub. Can't get the tire off.
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Once I get the tire off, I can take hub off and replace stud. I tried pulling tire against lug to try and put pressure on stud, but still spins. I wish I could just break the stud off. I guess my next step is drilling out the stud to weaken and break it off.

THOUGHTS?????

We using RV this weekend (short mile trip) so I am not going to work on it till we get back Monday. I need to get it repaired before we go on long mile trip in June.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:23 AM   #2
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CUT OFF

Use a Dremel tool to split nut on two opposite sides, use a cutting disk on tool! Or a nut splitter from Auto Zone.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:29 AM   #3
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That sucks! Don't think trying to break stud off will be successful. I'd be looking to see if I could cut the lug nut off like with a die grinder and carbide burr. Moreso, even a dremel type tool with either the wafer cut-off discs or I've seen carbide burr sets with 1/8" shanks on amazon that might get in there without screwing up your rim. I think a trip to harbor freight is in your future.

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Old 05-25-2017, 08:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain America View Post
After dealing with a cap spinning on a lug, I decided to replace all capped lugs with solid lugs. I was taking one lug off at a time and replacing with a solid lug and then torque all lugs.

2nd to last lug, I put the impact on and the lug started to spin easily. Crap, another cap spinning on lug, NOT! The lug was cross threaded and the stud is spinning in the hub. Can't get the tire off.
Attachment 138999
Once I get the tire off, I can take hub off and replace stud. I tried pulling tire against lug to try and put pressure on stud, but still spins. I wish I could just break the stud off. I guess my next step is drilling out the stud to weaken and break it off.

THOUGHTS?????

We using RV this weekend (short mile trip) so I am not going to work on it till we get back Monday. I need to get it repaired before we go on long mile trip in June.
In order to "Drill it out" you still have to prevent the Stud from spinning! Removal of the Axlel Nut and welding a steel Arm to the back side of stud might be the easiest way to prevent the Stud from turning!Then you could use the Impact agin! Youroo!!
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:41 AM   #5
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Bummer! It's gonna be hard to get a cut off tool in there without hitting
the wheel. I'd still try a burr tool on a dremel or air powered die grinder.
Harbor Freight fer sure.....

Youroo has the ultimate final solution if the above don't sound good to you.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:45 AM   #6
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If you didn't have that "hubcap" insert in there, you could have pulled the bearing buddy , took off the spindle nut and pulled the whole works as an assembly like Youroo said. You probably won't be able to do that unless you cut that cap off
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:46 AM   #7
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Aaron, did the lugnut unscrew any before it seized on the stud?

The reason I ask is we usually can take a short handled sledge hammer and actually snap the stud, by beating on the lugnut.

But if the lugnut is still seated pretty much up in the wheel, then this is not going to be feasible, and you could damage the wheel.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:59 AM   #8
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Just pull the hub, then you can get at the back of the stud and grind, cut an x on it and snap pieces with a cold chisel. He'd to do that in the past. Easy if you have the tools.
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Old 05-25-2017, 09:01 AM   #9
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You will have to get another cap.
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Old 05-25-2017, 09:36 AM   #10
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Remove all the other studs, work a prybar in behind the wheel and force the wheel outwards to pull the stud tight against the hub. Hopefully the increased friction will be enough to hold the stud while you remove the nut. I've done this before and there is a 50-50 chance that it will work.

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Old 05-25-2017, 10:55 AM   #11
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Thanks for the tips!
I don't think there is enough lug exposed for a nut splitter. There is about 3/8" play front to back on stud, so lug has few threads on stud.

I can't get a prybar between wheel and hub. I can take hub off, but I will have to cut plastic cap to access the axle nut (last resort).

I'm going to attempt to drill it out. I will hold lug with vise grips and drill center of stud past lug, that should weaken stud to break off. Then remove hub and replace stud and repack bearings.

I'll let everyone know what method works, if this happens to someone else. I'm glad I found this in the driveway and not in BFE with a blowout.
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:47 PM   #12
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Sacrifice the center cap. Cut the end off. Take the drum nut off, and then you can remove the entire assembly, and then you can either cut the head of the stud off, or, if you're lucky, you can get a grip on it and hold it. Chances are if the nut is seized, you won't have that. ALSO remember that the loose stud has damaged the bore in the hub that it was pressed into, and a new one will not be tight enough. You may need to have the new stud spot welded in place. Wishing you good luck!
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:50 PM   #13
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They do sell studs that are over size in the SPLINE/SWEDGE area. Good NAPA store should be able to help.
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Old 05-25-2017, 01:05 PM   #14
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Do check into the price of a new brake drum on etrailer first before you go oversize on studs or welding stuff. I'm thinking a drum might be in the $50 range. Nice to at least have a number in your head 1st
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Old 05-25-2017, 02:15 PM   #15
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Old 05-25-2017, 05:28 PM   #16
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Yup. That situation isn't an easy one to fix.

Guess it goes without saying to NEVER put a lug nut ON with an impact.

Off, sure!

On, never!

Oh, and good practice is to start all the nuts by hand. Since you're not going to be using an impact, that's now a given.

Upon getting a new rig, I use a die on all the studs, and run a tap through all the nuts. They are usually 1/2" x 20 threads. It makes things so much easier for the entire time I own the rig.

I do that to our cars, too, though those are almost always metric threads.

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Old 05-25-2017, 06:42 PM   #17
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I always use anti-seize on my studs before putting the lug nuts back on. Stops a lot of the issues with galling of threads that happens. Rarely have issues when I do.
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:45 PM   #18
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I agree 100% with ya Pop! I never impact a lug on. Always start by hand and then spin them on. Use torque wrench to tighten.

I bought the camper used and pervious owner said he recently had brakes checked and bearings packed. I sure that's when it was cross threaded and impacted on.

I love fixing other's screw ups! Lol
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:47 PM   #19
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Also, I'm glad I changed all the capped lugs, noticed two caps were split. That would of been future headaches.
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:38 AM   #20
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The black plastic cover over the hub will be easy to cut off. Once that is done you can remove the dust cover of the hub, take the axle nut off and remove the hub. Now you will have access to the stud from inside the hub. a mini-grinder should make short work of the stud on the back so it will come off easily.

You will need to get a new plastic hub cover, but they are cheap, especially compared to a new wheel should you damage it using one of the other proposed solutions.

btw, I replaced all my lug nuts with solid ones after finding one split and having a hell of a time getting it off. If I were on the side of the road with only the tools available in my truck it would have never happened. You made a GOOD decision to replace them. Imagine if you had found this problem too, while on the side of the road. Be thankful you are taking care of it now!
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