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Old 12-17-2015, 08:25 PM   #21
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Good to know... Thanks
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:49 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Hthunder View Post
It's possible but the unit would not work when he pulled it out and it did after.
Do you have any idea what the tech did after he pulled the furnace out?
Seems odd to me he would pull the furnace and then shove it back in without discovering something. Something don't add up but if no one broke into your camper while you were gone, I'm pretty sure that switch didn't levitate to the off position on its own.
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Old 12-18-2015, 08:48 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by fonzie View Post
Usually on the side of the furnace......
Fonzie,
Do you have a model # for the furnace you posted a photo of?

I'm trying to find a wiring diagram of a furnace with that switch and having no luck. I want to know exactly what that switch controls?

The OP mentioned his furnace would run a minute or so and then shut off.
I'm guessing if that switch was off, his furnace wouldn't have even done that. No blower, no nothing.

Like was mentioned previously, in all likelihood it was a stuck sail switch.
If it is determined the switch in question actually shuts off the furnace, (blower and all) then what the tech told the OP is BS.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Fonzie,
Do you have a model # for the furnace you posted a photo of?

I'm trying to find a wiring diagram of a furnace with that switch and having no luck. I want to know exactly what that switch controls?

The OP mentioned his furnace would run a minute or so and then shut off.
I'm guessing if that switch was off, his furnace wouldn't have even done that. No blower, no nothing.

Like was mentioned previously, in all likelihood it was a stuck sail switch.
If it is determined the switch in question actually shuts off the furnace, (blower and all) then what the tech told the OP is BS.
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File Type: pdf Suburman Furnace_Service_Manual.pdf (4.92 MB, 29 views)
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hthunder View Post
The blower would run for about a minute the shut off. It may have been a stuck sail switch. Didn't think about that.
As you stated the blower would have ran for a short time before shutting down. The op said the unit didn't run at all so that would eliminate the sail switch.


Back to the power switch. Maybe was a little corroded so it didn't start to run at all? If the tech flipped the switch back and forth could have made contact and started to run.


When I bought my 08 my dealer told me there was a problem with my heater and he would replace it for me when I had time to bring it in. I worked the switches on the thermostat a few times and the furnace has run fine ever sense. One of the switches must have had a little corrosion on it. Working the switches must have cleaned it so it is now running as it should.Moisture or dampness can cause this quite often.

Jim
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:22 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
As you stated the blower would have ran for a short time before shutting down. The op said the unit didn't run at all so that would eliminate the sail switch.

Jim
Nope,
The OP has said on more than one occasion the blower would run for about a minute then shut off.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:47 AM   #27
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OK, thanks Fonzie.
I copied the verbiage below directly from the manual you posted.
Everyone, pay attention to the RED highlighted part.
If the switch in question was OFF, the blower would never have run, even for a minute.
I don't believe the problem was the on/off switch and the mobile tech diagnosed and charged you incorrectly.

Also, in the schematics, only certain models have a switch such as the one in question. In the schematic it is called a "valve switch." (the manual posted pertains to several furnaces and some are 115v AC)

SEQUENCE OF OPERATION
For Furnaces Equipped With Time Delay
The thermostat controls the operating circuit to the furnace
by reacting to room temperature to open and close a set of
contact points which allows current to flow to the ON and
OFF switch then to the relay.
The relay receives the power and allows power to pass
through to the switch within the relay. This is done by a
heater coil within the relay which actuates a bi-metal disc
closing the relay circuit.
The power then flows to the motor and allows the blower to
operate.
One end of the motor shaft drives the room air
wheel. The other end of the motor shaft drives the
combustion air wheel that delivers the required air to the
burner for combustion.
The limit switch is an in-line device which protects the
furnace from over heating conditions. The contacts in the
limit switch open at a given temperature setting, shutting off
power to the ignition system which controls the gas valve.
As the room air wheel comes up to speed, air flow closes
the sail switch completing the circuit. The sail switch is
placed into the system as a safety to prove there is
adequate air for combustion.
The next operation is controlled by the Direct Spark
Ignition, (DSI) system as power is applied to the DSI board.
The system will do the following.
1. The board has a timing circuit which allows the blower to
purge the chamber of any products of combustion or gas.
2. The board will then apply power to the gas valve. At the
same time it produces a high voltage power supply to the
electrode producing spark at the burner.
3. The board will also confirm the presence of a flame. If
the flame is not sensed after 7 seconds, the module will try
two (2) more times and then go into lock-out. The flame is
sensed through the spark wire and electrode.
W hen the thermostat has reached the set point with the
room air temperature, the contacts will open removing
power from the controls. The blower will remain on until the
relay opens and stops the motor.
NOTE: On some models, sail switch is before limit
switch.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:55 AM   #28
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I think the op got a little smoke and mirrors show
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:59 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
I think the op got a little smoke and mirrors show
Well, I believe so too but unfortunately, while the furnace now is working, I don't know that the OP is out of the woods to not having future problems.

Here's to wishing he never has another problem!
(what's that saying about wishes in one hand and something in the other??????)
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:08 AM   #30
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Nope,
The OP has said on more than one occasion the blower would run for about a minute then shut off.
You are right, my mistake. Was thinking of another thread. It very well could have been a stuck sail switch or not enough air flow across it. Thank you for correcting me!

My manual states to not block any of the registers. If you do you restrict the air across the sail and can cause this problem. I always make sure not to sit anything on them for this reason. I also keep a screen on the outside vents to keep mice from building a nest in the intake. according to the manual it doesn't take much of an air flow restriction.

Jim
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:10 AM   #31
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The control board has a fail safe mode where if after several tries, the furnace does not light and stay lit, it will go into safe mode. You need to shut it off ( remove power ) to reset the control board. Some older mechanical thermostats have an off position. The ones with no real off position ( not just no heat demand setting) you can pull fuse or turn off battery disconnect ( if not on shore power) . This resets the board and your good to go. This can happen if you run out of propane and get air in the system It can take several tries to get the furnace to light and stay lit.
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:13 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
You are right, my mistake. Was thinking of another thread. It very well could have been a stuck sail switch or not enough air flow across it. Thank you for correcting me!

My manual states to not block any of the registers. If you do you restrict the air across the sail and can cause this problem. I always make sure not to sit anything on them for this reason. I also keep a screen on the outside vents to keep mice from building a nest in the intake. according to the manual it doesn't take much of an air flow restriction.

Jim
No problem Jim,

Just making sure those following along in the thread don't have confusion.
The additional things you mentioned are good things to remember too!
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:30 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
The control board has a fail safe mode where if after several tries, the furnace does not light and stay lit, it will go into safe mode. You need to shut it off ( remove power ) to reset the control board. Some older mechanical thermostats have an off position. The ones with no real off position ( not just no heat demand setting) you can pull fuse or turn off battery disconnect ( if not on shore power) . This resets the board and your good to go. This can happen if you run out of propane and get air in the system It can take several tries to get the furnace to light and stay lit.
The older analog thermostats have an on/off switch you can use to reset the furnace. If you run out of propane you may have to run the kitchen stove to get gas flow to the furnace before you can do a reset. This should clear out most of the air. It still may take a few tries, needing a reset, because many furnaces are at the end of the gas line.

Question. When one tank goes empty and the unit switches tanks could a little air get into the line? It wouldn't take a lot of air to interrupt the flame

Jim
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Old 12-18-2015, 06:18 PM   #34
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And how can this happen??

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Originally Posted by Hthunder View Post
I bought my Flagstaff 831RLBSS on Nov 4 and pulled it to Gulf State Park 3 days later. Used the furnace all month in Nov off and on occasionally. Used up one bottle of propane and it automatically switched to the other tank. Left trailer for a few days to return to Tn. Came back and when I turned the heat on the blower would come on and run a minute and shut off. I checked the propane tanks and filled the one empty one. Still no heat. Called warranty repair and they gave me 3 RV repair facilities. I called Cherokee RV and the service tech came out and checked the unit. He found that the switch on the furnace was turned off!!!!

So, how is this possible? I did not turn it off. I don't think I can even reach the switch with the init in place. I know I used the heat prior to this.

Strange things!!
Well besides a ghost the only thing I can think of is a "mouse", if you coach is like mine (and yes I have the same similar heater) the heater is in a location that is open to mice, and since they love to find the most out of the way spot they love heaters, and will make a nest in there.
So I would get some traps, and Cab free and see if that helps get the goblins out of your heater?
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Old 12-19-2015, 10:29 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by silverback 35ts View Post
Well besides a ghost the only thing I can think of is a "mouse", if you coach is like mine (and yes I have the same similar heater) the heater is in a location that is open to mice, and since they love to find the most out of the way spot they love heaters, and will make a nest in there.
So I would get some traps, and Cab free and see if that helps get the goblins out of your heater?
And don't forget to put screens on the intake and exhaust outside. The screens are cheap. There have been many reports of mice building nests inside of furnaces. If they restrict air flow or build nests on the blower they can cause all kinds of problems.

Jim
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:42 AM   #36
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+1 for installing a screen. I just chiseled out a Pan-pipe wasp nest out of my heater. I put a screen on so it won't happen again.
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