Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-21-2021, 08:15 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 27
Toilet flange onto portable septic tank.

OK I am not really sure how to explain this or not but here goes. At our permanent campground we have a portable rv septic tank half buried outside the camper that before we go home we dump our blacks and Grey's into. We have a weekly pump out where the host we come around and stick a tube in the portable tank and start sucking. They will then pull our Grey's and blacks and suck the rest out of the tank.

If I can attach the picture you can see by the pvc pipe they open the cap on the top and stick the hose down inside. On this particular model of tank there is a lip where they stick the hose down in due to where the wheels on the tank are. Since there is a lip/ shelf there they can't get the sucking tube all the way down into the tank.

What they asked us to do was on the left side of the tank, make a hole and add a toilet flange and put a pvc pipe onto the flange with another cap so it's an acces point for them to get the hose in, that would reach the bottom of the tank.

Has anyone done anything like this before and could give me some pointers on how to do this, I have no clue when it comes to stuff like this.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20210513_111856.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	521.3 KB
ID:	255045  
bobothewizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 08:42 AM   #2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,334
I'd question why even use the extra tank at all? Do you really fill up the tanks in your trailer that fast that you would need the extra 40 gallons from the tote?

When we were permanent at a CG with on sewer hookups they just hooked up the honey wagon directly to our valves and sucked the tanks dry that way.

Seems like a lot of extra work that can be avoided.
Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 08:47 AM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 27
Yeah our last campground was like that too where they just hooked up.
bobothewizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 09:45 AM   #4
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,334
Do they not have that ability where you are at now?
Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 09:57 AM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 27
Correct.
bobothewizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 02:45 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 597
If you do decide to put another hole in your tote tank, I believe it is polypropylene plastic which is very hard to get glue to stick to. You have to have a special glue. It is obtainable sometimes at full service hardware stores, etc. I have added a connection to my old blue tank like that, but, it has been replaced for about 10 years with the larger tank. You may be able to do a mechanical connection for your present tank using gaskets to seal the hole, as long as the area is smooth enough to keep the gaskets flat. If you put the hole in the true side of the tank you may need a valve to keep the fluids from coming out. Since you are burying it, you may even consider a whole new tank that would be bigger with an easy to open top lid for their suction hoses. You can pretty much think "septic tank" many of which have just a lid on top of a large tank in the ground. To pump it out they just open the top and stick the hose in (we have one for the house). You might be able to get creative with the tank you put in.
ProfChuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 03:00 PM   #7
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,149
How big is the suck pipe"

You could cut a hole in the top of the tank and install a poly bulkhead fitting and then cap it. It would need to be just small enough to go through the existing port for assembly.

This is a 3"...


I too would suggest you look for a small poly septic/holding tank.
Lots more connection options.

__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=90
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2021, 09:55 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,621
Close...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfChuck View Post
If you do decide to put another hole in your tote tank, I believe it is polypropylene plastic which is very hard to get glue to stick to. You have to have a special glue. It is obtainable sometimes at full service hardware stores, etc. I have added a connection to my old blue tank like that, but, it has been replaced for about 10 years with the larger tank. You may be able to do a mechanical connection for your present tank using gaskets to seal the hole, as long as the area is smooth enough to keep the gaskets flat. If you put the hole in the true side of the tank you may need a valve to keep the fluids from coming out. Since you are burying it, you may even consider a whole new tank that would be bigger with an easy to open top lid for their suction hoses. You can pretty much think "septic tank" many of which have just a lid on top of a large tank in the ground. To pump it out they just open the top and stick the hose in (we have one for the house). You might be able to get creative with the tank you put in.
Close. Mine (which looks just like the pictured one) is HDPE (High-density Polyethylene).

I think I figured out what they were telling the OP to do. Here are a bunch of toilet flanges. Let/s look at this one for example.

The pipe size at the bottom either fits OUTSIDE 3" PVC pipe or INSIDE 4" pipe. What he wants you to do is mount it UPSIDE=DOWN, so the flange is flat on the surface of the tank and the pipe stick up, above the tank surface. This should be easy to do. Mark and cut the appropriate size circle on the surface. Drill a starting hole and use a saber saw (portable jig saw) with a moderately narrow blade, (the middle one in this group) to cut the circle. (Or use a hole saw if you can find one the right size.)

Place the flange on the surface and mark and drill four holes. It looks like 1/4" holes and 1/4-20 stainless machine screws, washers, and nuts will do it.

Get some gasket paper from the auto parts store and trace the fitting to cut a gasket. Or just use this stuff, available at Amazon or your local auto parts store. You can't use too much.

Place a machine screw in the through the flange and hole. With one hand, apply a washer and nut onto the machine screw. With the other hand, tighten the screw. You may have to recruit a woman or kid with small hands for this purpose. When all four machine screws are tight, you are ready to finish the job.

For this step, get this cleanout and this coupling and some PVC cement. (If you are purist, you can get cement that has the primer in it, or get the cleaner/solvent separately.) Put some cement on both the flange pipe and one end of the coupling--they will bond almost instantly. Then put some cement on the other end of the coupling and the cleanout and they will also bond almost instantly, too.

You do not need much experience with plumbing to do this job.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2021, 07:18 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 27
Click image for larger version

Name:	20210527_184635.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	475.3 KB
ID:	255510

Got it, thank you all. Ended up using drywall screws with wings to hold it down. Applied some caulk and good to go.
bobothewizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2021, 07:39 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,621
Drywall screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobothewizard View Post
Attachment 255510

Got it, thank you all. Ended up using drywall screws with wings to hold it down. Applied some caulk and good to go.
Drywall screws rust through VERY quickly. Maybe have some brass, bronze, or stainless steel hardware on hand for Phase II.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
tank


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:12 PM.