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Old 04-29-2020, 09:14 AM   #21
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Uh Oh - Update 4-29-20

Thanks all for the encouraging advice. Heavy rain and no new leaks, so success on the roof sealant!!!

Fridge now is running after cleaning out the burner tube. Rascal spiders and nests, keeping gas from getting through to the burner and thus the sensor so it now no longer keeps shutting off. FRIDGE IS COLD!!!!

Next is water heater - I get a red warning light when I turn it on (gas). The a/c works as I hear it percolate, but immediately shut (a/c) off to protect it.

No power at the water pump and fuses seem to be intact, so I'm baffled on this one. I may have to start a couple new threads. Cheers.

It looks like our Michigan Governor is trying to lock down now until June 1. I've run the math and COVID looks like 5 X worse than flu. I don't get it, but I will leave further comments off to focus on RV and getting on the road
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:49 AM   #22
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Congratulations on beating the cancer, DW got to fight the girl fight last summer and is still fighting off the after effects of the radiation treatments. If we get opened up for camping here in WA State we hope to get out this year. No use of the trailer last year. As for the water heater, check all the gas passageways, could be bugs and webs in there too. Other common issue is control board.
Best of Luck to you.
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:32 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
Thanks all for the encouraging advice. Heavy rain and no new leaks, so success on the roof sealant!!!

Fridge now is running after cleaning out the burner tube. Rascal spiders and nests, keeping gas from getting through to the burner and thus the sensor so it now no longer keeps shutting off. FRIDGE IS COLD!!!!

Next is water heater - I get a red warning light when I turn it on (gas). The a/c works as I hear it percolate, but immediately shut (a/c) off to protect it.

No power at the water pump and fuses seem to be intact, so I'm baffled on this one. I may have to start a couple new threads. Cheers.

It looks like our Michigan Governor is trying to lock down now until June 1. I've run the math and COVID looks like 5 X worse than flu. I don't get it, but I will leave further comments off to focus on RV and getting on the road
Glad you are making headway.

For the water heater...
If you have the water heater full of water, there is no reason to shut off the electric side of the heater to "protect it" (your words)

If the 'percolating' sound you are hearing on electric is without water in the tank, then you likely are/have done damage to the electric element. They will burn out within seconds when not submerged in water.

For the LP side of the water heater...
When you first turn on the LP water heater switch, the red LED 'fault' light WILL come on. It is designed that way. Then, within a few seconds of turning on the switch, the circuit board tries to fire the burner and IF SUCCESSFUL, the LED light will go out. IF NOT SUCCESSFUL in firing the burner, the light remains lit to let you know the burner didn't fire on LP. It will also come on anytime afterwards using the water heater when the burner fails to light (goes into lockout) so you know at a glance the water heater isn't working.

Common times the light will come on after using the water heater are such as if you run out of propane. The burner tries to light, it can't because there is no propane so the 'fault' light comes on to let you know there is an issue.

Once the propane supply is replenished, you have to turn off the LP switch and then turn it back on to remove the circuit board from the lockout mode.

Sometimes when the propane lines have been emptied, (such as running out of propane or being in storage a long time) a person might have to do the switch on... wait to see if it fires... goes into lock out... turn switch off procedure several times before the LP lines purge of air and the water heater can fire.

Insects like to make nests in the water heater burner components just as you found with the refrigerator. Just sayin'

As to the water pump...
If you have no power at the fuse at the pump you need to go to the switch and check for power. If there is power coming in and out of the switch, the issue is in the wiring between the switch and pump.

If there is power coming into the switch but not out, the problem is the switch.
If you have a lighted switch, don't assume that just because the switch lights up, that it is passing voltage to the pump. The light in the switch and the feed to the pump are two different circuits within the switch itself.

If there is no power coming into the switch the problem is between the switch and the power distribution center.
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Old 04-29-2020, 01:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwilcox View Post
Congratulations on beating the cancer, DW got to fight the girl fight last summer and is still fighting off the after effects of the radiation treatments. If we get opened up for camping here in WA State we hope to get out this year. No use of the trailer last year. As for the water heater, check all the gas passageways, could be bugs and webs in there too. Other common issue is control board.
Best of Luck to you.
Awesome - another cancer survivor. Sometimes as much as we complain, i remind myself to be thankful that this is not 100 years earlier, as we would not still be plugging away into longer years. Kudos and hugs to our Health and Science communities. Imperfect like us, but a blessing!! /// I hope you can get out on the road soon. I'll post another update when I tinker around some more Rich
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Old 04-29-2020, 01:06 PM   #25
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Next step

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Glad you are making headway.

For the water heater...
If you have the water heater full of water, there is no reason to shut off the electric side of the heater to "protect it" (your words)

If the 'percolating' sound you are hearing on electric is without water in the tank, then you likely are/have done damage to the electric element. They will burn out within seconds when not submerged in water.

For the LP side of the water heater...
When you first turn on the LP water heater switch, the red LED 'fault' light WILL come on. It is designed that way. Then, within a few seconds of turning on the switch, the circuit board tries to fire the burner and IF SUCCESSFUL, the LED light will go out. IF NOT SUCCESSFUL in firing the burner, the light remains lit to let you know the burner didn't fire on LP. It will also come on anytime afterwards using the water heater when the burner fails to light (goes into lockout) so you know at a glance the water heater isn't working.

Common times the light will come on after using the water heater are such as if you run out of propane. The burner tries to light, it can't because there is no propane so the 'fault' light comes on to let you know there is an issue.

Once the propane supply is replenished, you have to turn off the LP switch and then turn it back on to remove the circuit board from the lockout mode.

Sometimes when the propane lines have been emptied, (such as running out of propane or being in storage a long time) a person might have to do the switch on... wait to see if it fires... goes into lock out... turn switch off procedure several times before the LP lines purge of air and the water heater can fire.

Insects like to make nests in the water heater burner components just as you found with the refrigerator. Just sayin'

As to the water pump...
If you have no power at the fuse at the pump you need to go to the switch and check for power. If there is power coming in and out of the switch, the issue is in the wiring between the switch and pump.

If there is power coming into the switch but not out, the problem is the switch.
If you have a lighted switch, don't assume that just because the switch lights up, that it is passing voltage to the pump. The light in the switch and the feed to the pump are two different circuits within the switch itself.

If there is no power coming into the switch the problem is between the switch and the power distribution center.

Thank you for that very info filled post. Now I'm going back to get busy. I'll update the results here. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:00 PM   #26
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Uh Oh - Water Pump & Water Heater -SW6DE

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Glad you are making headway.

For the water heater...
If you have the water heater full of water, there is no reason to shut off the electric side of the heater to "protect it" (your words)

If the 'percolating' sound you are hearing on electric is without water in the tank, then you likely are/have done damage to the electric element. They will burn out within seconds when not submerged in water.

For the LP side of the water heater...
When you first turn on the LP water heater switch, the red LED 'fault' light WILL come on. It is designed that way. Then, within a few seconds of turning on the switch, the circuit board tries to fire the burner and IF SUCCESSFUL, the LED light will go out. IF NOT SUCCESSFUL in firing the burner, the light remains lit to let you know the burner didn't fire on LP. It will also come on anytime afterwards using the water heater when the burner fails to light (goes into lockout) so you know at a glance the water heater isn't working.

Common times the light will come on after using the water heater are such as if you run out of propane. The burner tries to light, it can't because there is no propane so the 'fault' light comes on to let you know there is an issue.

Once the propane supply is replenished, you have to turn off the LP switch and then turn it back on to remove the circuit board from the lockout mode.

Sometimes when the propane lines have been emptied, (such as running out of propane or being in storage a long time) a person might have to do the switch on... wait to see if it fires... goes into lock out... turn switch off procedure several times before the LP lines purge of air and the water heater can fire.

Insects like to make nests in the water heater burner components just as you found with the refrigerator. Just sayin'

As to the water pump...
If you have no power at the fuse at the pump you need to go to the switch and check for power. If there is power coming in and out of the switch, the issue is in the wiring between the switch and pump.

If there is power coming into the switch but not out, the problem is the switch.
If you have a lighted switch, don't assume that just because the switch lights up, that it is passing voltage to the pump. The light in the switch and the feed to the pump are two different circuits within the switch itself.

If there is no power coming into the switch the problem is between the switch and the power distribution center.
Hey Picker and all (should I start a new convo/thread?) ...

Solved the gas water heater side of things by cleaning out all the insects. It was like Jurassic Park in there. Now I get proper ignition and lighting. However .......

I have water in the tank and I have the house water with pressure hooked up. The gunk that has been coming out of the cold water is NASTY. Well, it's at least several years - at least I had put plenty of the pink stuff in so I don't see an leaks, and water if flowing. A purification discussion will come later.

I get it now. The warning light on the panel goes off once propane heat has been established. Cool. I see flames.

HOWEVER, I fear there is no water in the tank or it is not flowing. There is a butt load of rust in general .. when I flip up the 'switch' to try to let water out, nothing comes out. There is a very large and rusty nut? which I think I read allows the tank to drain. I cannot get it to budge. So I do not think there is water in the tank.

Hang on for the other part ....

I can flip the a/c on, but turn it right off after hearing some gurgling. The element may already be fried although I have tried to be very careful. I do not want to proceed with the water heater any further because of this 2nd part.

The Water Pump does sometimes come on and moved water for a bit but then shuts off. Like I said, when I run the pressurized water from the house, no problem there.

The water pump fuses are fine. It lights at the panel. It just runs for a few then shuts off. Could the pink winterization have gunked up over 2-3 years? I ran the water (house hose) for quite a bit to try to clear out lines, but still no go on the pump. Does it have Covid? Is there some cutoff that shuts it down before blowing a fuse?

Should I start a new threat-discussion? It has been years since I have been in a forum ... like the old BBSs in early internet days. I love this connection and am so appreciative.

And more good news. REALLY heavy rain last night (#2) and - no leaks this morning. So while there is some more to do on the sides, it feels wonderful to make progress.

THANK YOU!!!
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:08 AM   #27
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richminaya,

I don't know that it is necessary to start a new thread. You started this thread so we are not hijacking someone else's thread or questions.

Hopefully everyone here can follow along and continue to help you with your latest issues and get you back up and camping.

If you are getting brown rusty water, be sure what is going in is OK (source water) and if so you'll need to continue flushing until clear. You will also need to sanitize your plumbing system but we will let that go for now as we need to address whether you have water in your water heater or not.

Several things on the water heater...
If you flip the 'switch to let the water out" I'm guessing you are speaking of the lever on the T&P valve (temperature & pressure) located inside the outside access door.

Opening that lever is a good indication of whether the water tank is full and is what I use (and many others) to be SURE the tank has water.

If you have opened that valve while the system is under pressure (attached to city water in your case) and nothing comes out once given enough time for the tank to fill (six gallons common), then you DO NOT have water in the tank.

The likely reason you do not have water in the tank is because the bypass valving system for the water tank has been put in play. There are several valves on the BACK SIDE of the tank (accessed from INSIDE the R/V) to keep liquid (antifreeze) from entering the tank during winterization.

There are several configurations of these valves but the most common is a valve at the inlet (cold) side of the tank, a valve at the outlet (hot) side of the tank and one on a short hose (bypass) in between.

For normal operation, the inlet and outlet valves need to be open and the short, bypass line valve closed. It will be just the opposite for bypass/winterization.

Notice in the example below the position of the levers/knobs on the valves. Parallel with the plumbing line means the valve is open allowing flow.
Perpendicular to the line means it is closed and blocking flow.

In bypass, this keeps from having to pump 6 gallons of antifreeze into your system to get it to come out the hot outlet and fill the rest of the plumbing system.

Having the tank in bypass is also the reason you CAN NOT depend on water coming out of a hot faucet in the trailer to believe you have water in your water heater.

Many folks make the mistake of believing if water comes out of a hot tap, then the water heater is full. Not true when the water heater is in bypass. Water comes out the hot tap via going through the bypass plumbing and never enters the tank.

It is also the reason we see many burned out heating elements in the spring. Folks forget to remove the tank from bypass, open a faucet and think the water tank is full and BAM, burn out the element. Opening the T&P lever is the ONLY way to be sure you have water in the tank.

Let's get this issue addressed then we will move on to the water pump.

Here is a typical example of the three way bypass valving system.

As I mentioned, there are others ways to bypass and each Forest River brand uses a different method.

Let us know what YOURS are and we'll move forward.

I've also included a photo of a T&P valve and the lever. (switch as you called it)
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:16 AM   #28
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Still on the water heater so I dont think you need to start a new thread.
To check for water in the heater, open the Temperature and Pressure Relief valve, if nothing (air or water) comes out it is in bypass, if air keep it open till you get water and it is full, if you get water it is full. Make sure you have good pressure. As for the pump, do you also have house water hooked up? If so it could override the pressure switch on the pump. If not, with out it being used for a while the gunk you are seeing probably mucked up the internals of the pump and you might just need to flush the tank and clean the pump to get things going again.
Sounds like you got the roof leak. Good deal.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:42 AM   #29
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For the water pump, it has a filter on it. You will need to check the filter and make sure it is clean (after a few year it probably is not). Your water heater (if it is a suburban) has an anode rod. The is probably your big bolt, hopefully it is not rusted on, The anode rod should be checked and (maybe) changed. It will corrode over time and add a lot of deposits inside your water heater (Atwood water heaters do not have this, the just have a plug to take off and drain and clean the tank). Taking plug/anode rod out will allow you to thoroughly clean out your water heater. Sometimes mine is on so tight I need an impact wrench to take it off (do it at least once a year). If it is rusted on, you may to look at other options.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:14 AM   #30
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Water Pump:

You first said it ran for a few seconds, and later you said it had no power, so I'm a bit confused.

If you're trying to run the pump with no faucet open, it will only run a few seconds.

The pump runs until it builds up a certain pressure, say 40 psi. (If you have city water hooked up and it's a higher pressure than the pump's shut off pressure, it probably won't run at all.) If you do NOT have city water hooked up, then the pump will pressurize the system and turn off. Open a faucet, the pressure drops and the pump starts and supplies water to the faucet. Shut off the faucet, pressure builds up and the pump shuts off.

There is a check valve at the city water connection. If the pump can supply more pressure than the city water is supplying, then when you turn it on it will pressurize the system until it gets to it's pressure setpoint, then shut off. This probably only takes a few seconds.

If you haven't tried it yet, turn on the pump and open a faucet. If it still only runs a few seconds, then you have some other kind of problem.

I've attached a "generic" RV plumbing diagram that may help. It also shows some of the various ways the water heater bypass valves may be plumbed, as discussed previously in a prior post.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:49 AM   #31
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If anything is in any way damp in the camper, like the floor or walls, then try to put in the camper a de-humidifier and a box fan on low to air the trailer out and help dry it from the inside... I know it is still cool in MI and in the summer it gets humid so dry it out before going much further.

Where are you getting your source of electric for the trailer?

You mention that the AC gurgles... well if you are working with a long extension cord and a 15 amp adapter to a 30 amp ( 3 prong round plug) or 50 amp ( 4 prong round plug) you may not be getting enough AMPS to the AC to get it started. ALSO, insects also like to build nests in the AC box on the roof.
Do read about Eternabond tape https://www.eternabond.com/RoofSeal-p/rv-rs.htm and use it to do anymore sealing on the roof. Dicor gets old and starts to crack after about 3 years or less and your back to adding more Dicor...
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:38 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by lmiken View Post
Sometimes mine is on so tight I need an impact wrench to take it off (do it at least once a year). If it is rusted on, you may to look at other options.
If I had 60 seconds to remove a rusted on bolt in order to save my life (yes, Covid-19 has introduced a certain fatalistic tinge to my thought process ), I would use this stuff . . . .

https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Spec...%2C199&sr=1-23

Liquid Wrench to the rescue!!
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Old 04-30-2020, 12:20 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by lmiken View Post
For the water pump, it has a filter on it. You will need to check the filter and make sure it is clean (after a few year it probably is not). Your water heater (if it is a suburban) has an anode rod. The is probably your big bolt, hopefully it is not rusted on, The anode rod should be checked and (maybe) changed. It will corrode over time and add a lot of deposits inside your water heater (Atwood water heaters do not have this, the just have a plug to take off and drain and clean the tank). Taking plug/anode rod out will allow you to thoroughly clean out your water heater. Sometimes mine is on so tight I need an impact wrench to take it off (do it at least once a year). If it is rusted on, you may to look at other options.
Next time use some Teflon tape on it. Will help seal it, help it to come off easier next time, and won't prevent it from doing it's job (still get electron flow as the tape doesn't fully insulate the anode).
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Old 04-30-2020, 12:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
If anything is in any way damp in the camper, like the floor or walls, then try to put in the camper a de-humidifier and a box fan on low to air the trailer out and help dry it from the inside... I know it is still cool in MI and in the summer it gets humid so dry it out before going much further.

Where are you getting your source of electric for the trailer?

You mention that the AC gurgles... well if you are working with a long extension cord and a 15 amp adapter to a 30 amp ( 3 prong round plug) or 50 amp ( 4 prong round plug) you may not be getting enough AMPS to the AC to get it started. ALSO, insects also like to build nests in the AC box on the roof.
Do read about Eternabond tape https://www.eternabond.com/RoofSeal-p/rv-rs.htm and use it to do anymore sealing on the roof. Dicor gets old and starts to crack after about 3 years or less and your back to adding more Dicor...
The AC the original poster was referring to when mentioning gurgles (actually percolates was their words) was the AC (electric) side of the water heater. Not the A/C (air conditioning)

Your post contains good information none the less, just doesn't pertain to the OP's question.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:51 PM   #35
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richminaya,

I don't know that it is necessary to start a new thread. You started this thread so we are not hijacking someone else's thread or questions.

Hopefully everyone here can follow along and continue to help you with your latest issues and get you back up and camping.

If you are getting brown rusty water, be sure what is going in is OK (source water) and if so you'll need to continue flushing until clear. You will also need to sanitize your plumbing system but we will let that go for now as we need to address whether you have water in your water heater or not.

Several things on the water heater...
If you flip the 'switch to let the water out" I'm guessing you are speaking of the lever on the T&P valve (temperature & pressure) located inside the outside access door.

Opening that lever is a good indication of whether the water tank is full and is what I use (and many others) to be SURE the tank has water.

If you have opened that valve while the system is under pressure (attached to city water in your case) and nothing comes out once given enough time for the tank to fill (six gallons common), then you DO NOT have water in the tank.

The likely reason you do not have water in the tank is because the bypass valving system for the water tank has been put in play. There are several valves on the BACK SIDE of the tank (accessed from INSIDE the R/V) to keep liquid (antifreeze) from entering the tank during winterization.

There are several configurations of these valves but the most common is a valve at the inlet (cold) side of the tank, a valve at the outlet (hot) side of the tank and one on a short hose (bypass) in between.

For normal operation, the inlet and outlet valves need to be open and the short, bypass line valve closed. It will be just the opposite for bypass/winterization.

Notice in the example below the position of the levers/knobs on the valves. Parallel with the plumbing line means the valve is open allowing flow.
Perpendicular to the line means it is closed and blocking flow.

In bypass, this keeps from having to pump 6 gallons of antifreeze into your system to get it to come out the hot outlet and fill the rest of the plumbing system.

Having the tank in bypass is also the reason you CAN NOT depend on water coming out of a hot faucet in the trailer to believe you have water in your water heater.

Many folks make the mistake of believing if water comes out of a hot tap, then the water heater is full. Not true when the water heater is in bypass. Water comes out the hot tap via going through the bypass plumbing and never enters the tank.

It is also the reason we see many burned out heating elements in the spring. Folks forget to remove the tank from bypass, open a faucet and think the water tank is full and BAM, burn out the element. Opening the T&P lever is the ONLY way to be sure you have water in the tank.

Let's get this issue addressed then we will move on to the water pump.

Here is a typical example of the three way bypass valving system.

As I mentioned, there are others ways to bypass and each Forest River brand uses a different method.

Let us know what YOURS are and we'll move forward.

I've also included a photo of a T&P valve and the lever. (switch as you called it)
So many great points ... did not get out today as the wind chill had us back around 30 but the next several days look promising. I am copying every all notes and pasting them into OneNote to look at on the phone when outside the rv.

Couple things: definitely water in the tank. I got the big 1 1/16 inch hex valve? to the tank unscrewed and water was flowing. No pump running. No city water pressure. When it is warmer tomorrow, i will try opening it again, under pressure (house) as water pump still not working.

I do not recall every turning any bypass valve. I allowed the winterized water into all of the water system, as I recall. But I'll double check. Still no hot water comes out at taps in any situation.

I believe that the percolating I heard when turning on the a/c to the water heater, was merely the water heating. Unless that would be an aberration. But there is water in the tank.

I'll try the T&P valve again - under city water pressure this time. But so far, nothing.

More on Friday when I get back into it and review your notes again!! Mucho, Mucho Gracias!!!
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:57 PM   #36
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Hey Rsdata

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Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
If anything is in any way damp in the camper, like the floor or walls, then try to put in the camper a de-humidifier and a box fan on low to air the trailer out and help dry it from the inside... I know it is still cool in MI and in the summer it gets humid so dry it out before going much further.

Where are you getting your source of electric for the trailer?

You mention that the AC gurgles... well if you are working with a long extension cord and a 15 amp adapter to a 30 amp ( 3 prong round plug) or 50 amp ( 4 prong round plug) you may not be getting enough AMPS to the AC to get it started. ALSO, insects also like to build nests in the AC box on the roof.
Do read about Eternabond tape https://www.eternabond.com/RoofSeal-p/rv-rs.htm and use it to do anymore sealing on the roof. Dicor gets old and starts to crack after about 3 years or less and your back to adding more Dicor...
1 The unit walls, I believe are now dried out

2 Electric coming from a) battery alone, b) battery with generator on c)a/c from generator

3 Not the Air Conditioner that gurgles, but the ac power to the water heater as soon as a/c to heater is flipped on (sorry - too many acronyms). There is definitely water in tank. Next move is to let it rip and see if it heats the water, but still working on getting hot to flow to taps (water pump still works only occasionally, but cold flows when using the city connection

4 Furnace works (yay!) but have not tried the actual air conditioner.

5 Too late on the Dicor. I read raves about it elsewhere and already put it down, so regular future maintenance and monitoring!!

6 Definitely made notes about the Eternabond tape!!!! Thank you!
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:00 PM   #37
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Covid Fatalism

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Originally Posted by GoneSouth10 View Post
If I had 60 seconds to remove a rusted on bolt in order to save my life (yes, Covid-19 has introduced a certain fatalistic tinge to my thought process ), I would use this stuff . . . .

https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Spec...%2C199&sr=1-23

Liquid Wrench to the rescue!!
Covid Fatalism ... Prevention and prep is why I'm HIGHLY motivated to be mobile. LOL

Go the bolt off. Proof water is in water tank! see my other notes as I'm back on it tomorrow unless Michigan remains in ice age.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:06 PM   #38
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Big Bolt

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Originally Posted by lmiken View Post
For the water pump, it has a filter on it. You will need to check the filter and make sure it is clean (after a few year it probably is not). Your water heater (if it is a suburban) has an anode rod. The is probably your big bolt, hopefully it is not rusted on, The anode rod should be checked and (maybe) changed. It will corrode over time and add a lot of deposits inside your water heater (Atwood water heaters do not have this, the just have a plug to take off and drain and clean the tank). Taking plug/anode rod out will allow you to thoroughly clean out your water heater. Sometimes mine is on so tight I need an impact wrench to take it off (do it at least once a year). If it is rusted on, you may to look at other options.
Water Heater: The "big bolt" is off, water came on. It is just a long rod. No wires to the bolt, so I don't think this is where the anode is; it's just a 1 1/16 hex with long rod. More exploration tomorrow as weather improves

Water Pump: I will try tearing that apart and I think replacing the filter is in order
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:13 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Water Pump:

You first said it ran for a few seconds, and later you said it had no power, so I'm a bit confused.

If you're trying to run the pump with no faucet open, it will only run a few seconds.

The pump runs until it builds up a certain pressure, say 40 psi. (If you have city water hooked up and it's a higher pressure than the pump's shut off pressure, it probably won't run at all.) If you do NOT have city water hooked up, then the pump will pressurize the system and turn off. Open a faucet, the pressure drops and the pump starts and supplies water to the faucet. Shut off the faucet, pressure builds up and the pump shuts off.

There is a check valve at the city water connection. If the pump can supply more pressure than the city water is supplying, then when you turn it on it will pressurize the system until it gets to it's pressure setpoint, then shut off. This probably only takes a few seconds.

If you haven't tried it yet, turn on the pump and open a faucet. If it still only runs a few seconds, then you have some other kind of problem.

I've attached a "generic" RV plumbing diagram that may help. It also shows some of the various ways the water heater bypass valves may be plumbed, as discussed previously in a prior post.
Hi. To clarify

1 Yes, I don't seem to be able to show power testing at the water pump input, and yet it would come on once in a while. More testing tomorrow.

2 Faucets open, water pump (no change), but running under city water pressure (from house)

3 I see no check valve inside behind the water connection; the line runs straight from outside down into the tank. More looking tomorrow.

Thank you!
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
Water Heater: The "big bolt" is off, water came on. It is just a long rod. No wires to the bolt, so I don't think this is where the anode is; it's just a 1 1/16 hex with long rod. More exploration tomorrow as weather improves
If there are no wires to it, means it IS the anode rod. If it had wires, it would be the electric WH heating element.
The anode is sacrificial so the WH is probably a Suburban.
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