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Old 04-30-2020, 08:23 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
Water Heater: The "big bolt" is off, water came on. It is just a long rod. No wires to the bolt, so I don't think this is where the anode is; it's just a 1 1/16 hex with long rod. More exploration tomorrow as weather improves

Water Pump: I will try tearing that apart and I think replacing the filter is in order
That big rod is the anode. It doesn't have any wires. It exists to be attacked by the electrolytic reaction that happens when you have dissimilar metals in contact with water - the anode gets consumed so that your tank and fittings don't corrode. It's technically called a "sacrificial" anode.

On my system, I use that to drain the water heater after trips. Pull the anode, open a faucet inside, and let all of the water run out onto the ground. Some people will leave it out until the next trip, but I don't like the mental image of bugs getting up in there.

When setting up at a new camp, I check to make sure that the anode is in before I connect to water, then turn the water on and open the pressure valve until water comes out at the top. Then I will open each of the faucets inside (and flush the toilet) until air stops coming out. Finally, I will turn on both water heater elements.

Hope that helps clarify a little.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:44 PM   #42
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Yes You are right

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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
If there are no wires to it, means it IS the anode rod. If it had wires, it would be the electric WH heating element.
The anode is sacrificial so the WH is probably a Suburban.
It is a Suburban. The model is SW6DE. And I had to look up what the anode does. Learning ... Since I hear action when I hit the electric or the gas, I think I'll replace it since it is only $13. My issue is why water is not flowing through the water heater to the faucets. I'll test more tomorrow as temp hits 60 and the wind finally stops!
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:22 PM   #43
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Good Call

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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
The two places on the power distribution center where the 40a fuses plug in are the reverse polarity protection fuses for the converter to the battery.

Those fuses protect the converter and the battery wiring should someone connect the battery cables backwards.

That is where I'd start looking for an issue.
Did you replace the battery(ies)?
After sitting for two years. I'd imagine so.

It could be possible you have the battery wires connected improperly. It is an easy mistake made by many as black is often the hot (positive) and white is ground (negative) in the R/V world on the DC battery side of things.

The other possibility is if you have no battery connected, it could be the positive wire is laying loose, touching the frame (or metal something) and shorting out, thereby blowing the fuse.

And yes. you could have water damage to some other part of the DC wiring but let us know what you have as far as at the battery/wires/connections and we can proceed further.
Nice Call, you helped correct that situation for sure. Little common sense and some logic, we could all use regular doses of that, thanks
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:17 PM   #44
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Here's how the anode deteriorates. Yours may be just fine. I haven't replaced mine in 5 yrs. The deterioration rate is different for different types of water, so you never know; depends on where you camp.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:24 PM   #45
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U too Kind

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Nice Call, you helped correct that situation for sure. Little common sense and some logic, we could all use regular doses of that, thanks
Certainly no common sense when I hooked up the battery, but that is most definitely a lesson noted as it affected everything!!!
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:41 PM   #46
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Da Floor, Da Floor - 2013 Palomino Solaire 28

2013 Palomino Solaire 28, 1 slideout

Much Thanks to so many ideas and encouragement from all in my "Uh Oh" thread.

I have been on the learning curve and realize I do not need to pay someone to do this work, unless I choose to. Not knocking pros. They are wonderful, but I'm enjoying the self-education.

So getting right to the point, I have soft spots in several areas. I believe these are structural in nature and not from water damage. The factory rep was not helpful and threw huge $'s to the point where I cried and was going to give up.

Then I started on each item and have figured - WITH A LOT OF HELP - out one by one that most things were really simple; reverse battery (unbelieably stupid), cleaning out spiders and bugs, pull water pump, etc, etc, etc

The opinions of folks like you and a couple repair guys have given me hope that the floor is repairable.

Does anyone know this model of RV and what type of floor it has? How do I find out? I don't want to randomly drill holes.

The affordable solution has been to put down OSB (3/4), but I'm not sure - yet - how that works with the slideout.

I also watched a very interesting YouTube video where a fellow injected some type of resin or liquid every 6 inches and showed how to make sure you don't drill through the bottom layer - if that is an option on mine.

It seems that would be pricier given I have probably 3 (3' X 3') areas that in the walk area that would need it at minimum.

Any thoughts? Or references in the library (I'm still lurning).

And thank you again for all the previous help. Me thinks it is not a bad time to learn these things and be more self-sufficient. I'll leave the panic out and focus on our human ability to adapt. How's that!
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Old 05-02-2020, 07:07 AM   #47
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We have a 2013 Solaire bought new. It is an ultralight travel trailer and there are compromises resulting from that.
Structural supports are speed out and of lighter gauge. Flooring is 5/8" vs 3/4".

With that said, ours has had flex/give in most of the floor since new. No water damage, just not as rigid as other trailers I've been in.

You may very well have soft spots from water damage. . .just sharing this perspective from our experience with a similar model from this manufacturer.

Great job navigating through your issues and questions by the way. You'll have this unit tuned up in no time!
Pete
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Old 05-02-2020, 08:12 AM   #48
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Hey Pete

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Originally Posted by purduepete97 View Post
We have a 2013 Solaire bought new. It is an ultralight travel trailer and there are compromises resulting from that.
Structural supports are speed out and of lighter gauge. Flooring is 5/8" vs 3/4".

With that said, ours has had flex/give in most of the floor since new. No water damage, just not as rigid as other trailers I've been in.

You may very well have soft spots from water damage. . .just sharing this perspective from our experience with a similar model from this manufacturer.

Great job navigating through your issues and questions by the way. You'll have this unit tuned up in no time!
Pete
I appreciate that. It has an interesting learning curve with more to go. All this excitement only to find out I may not even be able to boondock.

As to the floor, I will see if anybody had tried the injection system with the damaged floors versus laying down osb.

A lot of the stuff I ordered for the rv won't even get here for a couple weeks now. Although I could still use the rv as is and do some work arounds.
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Old 05-04-2020, 12:05 PM   #49
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😃thanks all
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:46 PM   #50
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The anode rod deteriorates over time and leaves a lot of mineral deposits in the water heater so be sure and clean it out real good.
Use one of these:https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...s%2C290&sr=8-2


as for the floor. under my sink where the water pump is, there is a large hole so I can see what the floor is like (base floor that the pump sits on and then the insulation and then the top flooring). Maybe you have something somewhere similar
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Old 05-04-2020, 02:24 PM   #51
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Hot water tank - no water moving thru

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Originally Posted by Qwkynuf View Post
That big rod is the anode. It doesn't have any wires. It exists to be attacked by the electrolytic reaction that happens when you have dissimilar metals in contact with water - the anode gets consumed so that your tank and fittings don't corrode. It's technically called a "sacrificial" anode.

On my system, I use that to drain the water heater after trips. Pull the anode, open a faucet inside, and let all of the water run out onto the ground. Some people will leave it out until the next trip, but I don't like the mental image of bugs getting up in there.

When setting up at a new camp, I check to make sure that the anode is in before I connect to water, then turn the water on and open the pressure valve until water comes out at the top. Then I will open each of the faucets inside (and flush the toilet) until air stops coming out. Finally, I will turn on both water heater elements.

Hope that helps clarify a little.
That is great advice which I will follow in the future. Thanks. I'm now awaiting parts delivery from Amazon, et al to figure out why water is not moving through my hot water tank
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Old 05-04-2020, 02:26 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by lmiken View Post
The anode rod deteriorates over time and leaves a lot of mineral deposits in the water heater so be sure and clean it out real good.
Use one of these:https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...s%2C290&sr=8-2


as for the floor. under my sink where the water pump is, there is a large hole so I can see what the floor is like (base floor that the pump sits on and then the insulation and then the top flooring). Maybe you have something somewhere similar
Unfortunately the pump is strapped to the side. Wish I could visualize the floor substructure; layers and such
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Old 05-04-2020, 06:57 PM   #53
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That is great advice which I will follow in the future. Thanks. I'm now awaiting parts delivery from Amazon, et al to figure out why water is not moving through my hot water tank
Check out the correct position of the water heater bypass (winterization) valves. Note - Without water in the water heater, turning on the electric mode may burn out the electric heating elements (Depending on how long you leave the electric) ... by the way, YouTube is an invaluable source for information on any household, RV issues or literally anything ... ANYTHING.
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Old 05-04-2020, 07:14 PM   #54
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Wow.

I've read through this entire thread and would like to say THANK YOU to everyone who pitched in to assist.

I learned a bunch and I'm not experiencing the issues. It has been really nice to read this unfolding.

You're all awesome.
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Old 05-04-2020, 09:22 PM   #55
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I've read through this entire thread and would like to say THANK YOU to everyone who pitched in to assist.

I learned a bunch and I'm not experiencing the issues. It has been really nice to read this unfolding.

You're all awesome.
I agree. Kudos to everyone involved.
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:02 PM   #56
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No toucha da valves

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Check out the correct position of the water heater bypass (winterization) valves. Note - Without water in the water heater, turning on the electric mode may burn out the electric heating elements (Depending on how long you leave the electric) ... by the way, YouTube is an invaluable source for information on any household, RV issues or literally anything ... ANYTHING.
To get to my valves, one has to remove (unscrew) panels in the bottom storage area and I am positive that was not done. So I'm going to go ahead and replace the anode and the electric heater element (even though I hear it heating water in the tank.

The only other consideration I can come up with since cold water is flowing is that there must be a clog or plug in the hot water line (doesn't work in kitchen or bath). Any other ideas? So far, every issue I have gone through and fixed has come down to gunk in the water line (water pump filter), bugs at the fridge jamming gas from getting to the burner, an assinine reversal of polarity at battery (ugh) and fixing fuses. Although time consuming, I've been pretty lucky so far. It dawns on me - hey! you have to maintain these things!!!

But why no hot water? I have to wait until parts come in and I am replacing the fresh water filter system, and the 2 previous mentioned items - then I can cross fingers and try again!
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:06 PM   #57
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Anode - shiny

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Here's how the anode deteriorates. Yours may be just fine. I haven't replaced mine in 5 yrs. The deterioration rate is different for different types of water, so you never know; depends on where you camp.
Wow - then I just spent money (for future!) for a pack of anodes that I do not need. Mine is shiny with nothing on it. But there was junk coming out of the water heater. But I'm planning on putting my baby to much harder work in the coming months and years. Thanks for that illustration
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:15 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
To get to my valves, one has to remove (unscrew) panels in the bottom storage area and I am positive that was not done. So I'm going to go ahead and replace the anode and the electric heater element (even though I hear it heating water in the tank.

The only other consideration I can come up with since cold water is flowing is that there must be a clog or plug in the hot water line (doesn't work in kitchen or bath). Any other ideas? So far, every issue I have gone through and fixed has come down to gunk in the water line (water pump filter), bugs at the fridge jamming gas from getting to the burner, an assinine reversal of polarity at battery (ugh) and fixing fuses. Although time consuming, I've been pretty lucky so far. It dawns on me - hey! you have to maintain these things!!!

But why no hot water? I have to wait until parts come in and I am replacing the fresh water filter system, and the 2 previous mentioned items - then I can cross fingers and try again!
The other way this happens when you know the water is hot is when the valves in the indoor or outdoor shower are open and the shower is shut off with the wand. Free to check but strange that water does not flow in a few fixtures. I have had no water when I was filling the water heater tank...

Here is a link to a wood hardener. I have no experience and I would likely replace the flooring. To see what it is pull up a vent register on the floor if you have any. If none then look for plumbing gas or electrical penetrations inside a cabinet or access panel

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products...-wood-hardener

Best of luck!
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Old 05-05-2020, 12:25 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
Unfortunately the pump is strapped to the side. Wish I could visualize the floor substructure; layers and such
Our FR has an inspection plate in front of the shower. Open it and on ours you see a big hole in the floor where the shower sewer trap comes up to the shower pan. The home is way bigger than needed and you can see the layers of the floor.

Also from about the first month our floor, which seems to be a lamination of two thin boards making a foam sandwich. Anyway, after month one it started squeezing under foot. Then moving. Then FR paid a repair station seven shop hours to open the bottom, remove a tank and put new screws through frame to tighten up the floor.

End of long story it squeeks as bad as ever and now 3 1/2 yrs later it moves under foot-- enough the I CAN TELL. MORAL OF STORY IT MIGHT NOT BE AS BAD AS YOU FEAR.

Also in front of slide it may have to be removed and replaced to avoid slide interference, but as some have said, first things first. Heat it up, dehumidifier it and then see.

Best of luck and congrats on tackling this. I recommend YouTube search for all of this. Three pros I have learned from are RV Education 101, AZ Expert, and My RV Works, Inc. And a ton of serious DIYers who mostly live in em full time and deal with this stuff.
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Old 05-05-2020, 07:59 AM   #60
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The other way this happens when you know the water is hot is when the valves in the indoor or outdoor shower are open and the shower is shut off with the wand. Free to check but strange that water does not flow in a few fixtures. I have had no water when I was filling the water heater tank...

Here is a link to a wood hardener. I have no experience and I would likely replace the flooring. To see what it is pull up a vent register on the floor if you have any. If none then look for plumbing gas or electrical penetrations inside a cabinet or access panel

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products...-wood-hardener

Best of luck!
Water: I'll have a better idea when I replace the heating element and put in new inline water filter. Is it possible that a bad element can stop the hot water? Every other valve is set to open. If I had an air compressor, I would try blowing out the lines. Normally I'd just go buy one, but I'm hanging on to cash.

Floor: All vents are in the walls so now way to look without drilling a test hold. (that I can find) I like the idea of injection way better than tearing out the floor.

I should not again that I'm pretty sure the floor issue is structural as there were so many recalls on these SH***Y ultra light floors around 2013. Think I best get underneat, open her up and look before proceeding. There also might be a way to add support or struts, but I first have to have an idea what the joists or support system looks like.
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