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Old 04-27-2020, 09:39 PM   #1
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Uh Oh! Lots of problems

Hi. Newbie here. I'll try to get right to the points. I had become ill for a spell and sadly fell well behind with ability to use.

2013 Palamino Solaire 28 ... bought as 2nd owner, quickly noticed floor mushy. Caveat Emptor. No relief from the place I purchased it from .. finally took it to the factory in Colon, Mi and was given an astronomical price to fix as per factory specs.

No only did the floor have issues, water had got in and the roof is crunchy in the area of one skylight and the slideout (about 3 X 4 foot) and they said even the wall had water.

Fast forward, reading a lot, local repair fellow who fixes and sells mostly says it is not a lost cause ... we can put OSB down on the floor ... I have resealed the roof with DICOR self leveling adhesive and it is out in a light rain tonight. First time it has been out of a dry barn in about 2 years so we'll see in the morning.

I'd like any feedback, of course. For right now until I can get with this fellow, I'm trying to focus on the electric as I have a lot going on there.

Forgive, plz, if I don't have terminology down. I can see a learning curve. I do not have the funds to junk this otherwise barely used (5 times from 2015 through 2018) and try to start anew. And now with an economic ? crash, we are all a bit nervous. This RV (or an RV) is now going to be a major part of my lifestyle going forward due to change of priorities in life.

Electrical. I'm hoping somebody here sees some parallels that can save time if the problem eminates from one area. So here we go.

All AC circuit breakers work fine. I tested all outlets and according to tester, there are no issues.

On the DC side of things:

All lights work in and out.

First (and I can't remember) there are 2 spots on the fusebox for 40 amp reverse battery (?). Every time I try to drop a new fuse, it blows (on both spots). Hell, it melts the electric fuse prongs.

The panel where you check battery, black, gray - no longer lights up

The switch to the fuel pump no longer lights or turns on

There is no power indicated at the thermostat

The water heater switch does not light.

The fuse to the entertainment center blows either at the box or at the rear of the entertainment center; I pulled it and found a hidden fuse there, replaced it and heard the other one snap back at the fusebox.

The outside fridge (outside kitchen) does work. It is a/c only. But the inside no longer has any lights. I checked the back side and the main fuses on the circuit board are not blow. But I have read there may be more inline somewhere. There is A/C working to this fridge, but we've got a d/c problem it seems. I have gotten past looking at the circuit board fuses as something tells me there may be something larger affecting all these things.

I do not see any of the red lights lighting at the fuse box (is this called the distribution center? I'm learning slowly .........) Should a red light come on when say the entertainment center circuit blows?

This RV is everything I wanted, but left unattended (I had cancer .. it's gone!) I have a lot going on. The factory repair guys basically ruined my week telling me it was not worth the repair, but after reading a lot, watching some YouTube vids and talking with a few repair guys, they say - not so fast.

Is this thing going to be unsafe traveling down the road? Definitely have to repair the inside of the ceiling where the roof is crunchy, but tech man says he's seen it and can make it work.

I can live with osb and a retile. I looked at some vids on injection repair which looked awesome, but I'm afraid there are quite a few soft spots (Thank you Forest River!!!)

I am in the Lansing Michigan area and it would be REALLY awesome to get a guy who really knows his electrical. My background includes basic knowledge (I wired a house) and I have soldered and built many recording studios.

I want to get this done ASAP - for a lot of reasons. This has become a priority. Am I taking on too much?

If you're still with me reading this, what comes to mind re: electrical? Is there a main distribution point from the battery ... or a possible ground problem?

God bless you for taking the time. I'm nervous and want to be road ready. And I have loved the outdoors, camping and rv (later) all my life!!

Rich Minaya Thank you so much again. Trying to stay optimistic.
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Old 04-27-2020, 09:53 PM   #2
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did you have it test for mold?
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:04 PM   #3
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Rich,
Welcome and you have come to the right place for help.
My first reaction is the water damage. This must be corrected as soon as possible, since it is only going to get worse, and quickly. I have always replaced and rebuilt all bad locations.

Again, welcome.
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:46 AM   #4
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First, Congratulations on beating cancer!

Then, you've repaired the roof which should help keep it dry. Also, check all seals around the windows for leaks. Then get someone to crawl under it to see if there are any tears in the underbelly where water might get in. Run water through the rv to see if you've got any plumbing leaks. I agree that the water damage must be fixed and it sounds like you've gotten some good advice on how to do it. Not everything has to be fixed to factory specs to make it usable.

Unfortunately, I don't know of a mobile rv technician in your area that can help you with the electric, but it sounds like you need one to help you trace down those problems. It could be something simple. Are you certain the battery is hooked up properly?

As to whether it's safe to travel down the road, the person who fixes rvs might be able to tell you.
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Old 04-28-2020, 06:03 AM   #5
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Sounds like you have most AC components working and almost no 12v DC components working. My steps given these circumstances would be something like this:

1. Battery - this TT probably only came w/one 12v battery. Have it tested at an auto parts store and replace if any question. IMHO, 75% chance it'll need replaced. If there are multiple batteries, it was probably owner-added and I'd be tempted to take them out and restore to original single battery config at least until all of this is figured out.
2. Battery - when connecting new/reconnecting old battery, make 100% sure the negative terminal is to ground. Also make sure the auxiliary connections (the extra wires that should be connected to the + terminal, i.e. for tongue jack) are on the positive terminal.
3. Ground - make sure the other end of the wire connected to the negative terminal of the battery is securely fastened to the frame. If you see any rust or corrosion, remove the ground bolt, clean off all rust, and securely re-fasten.
4. Look for in-line fuses (replaceable or re-settable (is that a word??)) between the battery and where the wires disappear into the TT. Replace any that are not clearly in good working order.
5. Battery cut-off switch - a cut-off may have been installed by previous owner (they usually didn't come on this model from the factory). It'll be a large switch with some kind of plastic key or lever that you rotate to connect/disconnect the battery. Disconnect = no 12v to anything. Connect = 12v flows to the distribution panel.

Hope that is at least a little bit helpful. Good luck!!

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Old 04-28-2020, 07:30 AM   #6
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mold

I have not and do not smell it, which is misleading and I have only been in it for short periods. I think that is a great question for health considerations. I'm not sure how to go about testing, but with all that moisture, I have to believe it is present somewhere. Whether it can be contained in the walls and flooring or by doing some type of complete wipe down or mold bomb, I don't know and am open to ideas.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:33 AM   #7
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Rich,
Welcome and you have come to the right place for help.
My first reaction is the water damage. This must be corrected as soon as possible, since it is only going to get worse, and quickly. I have always replaced and rebuilt all bad locations.

Again, welcome.
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Thank you - I'm on it and put down 7 tubes of DICOR and might add some more. Even though the roof itself (surface) looks decent, I was going to redo that. Next is checking the sides, windows ... i notice the slideout gasket was pinched in a couple places and corrected that before we had rain last night. I will be going out to check around in a bit.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:36 AM   #8
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First, Congratulations on beating cancer!

Then, you've repaired the roof which should help keep it dry. Also, check all seals around the windows for leaks. Then get someone to crawl under it to see if there are any tears in the underbelly where water might get in. Run water through the rv to see if you've got any plumbing leaks. I agree that the water damage must be fixed and it sounds like you've gotten some good advice on how to do it. Not everything has to be fixed to factory specs to make it usable.

Unfortunately, I don't know of a mobile rv technician in your area that can help you with the electric, but it sounds like you need one to help you trace down those problems. It could be something simple. Are you certain the battery is hooked up properly?

As to whether it's safe to travel down the road, the person who fixes rvs might be able to tell you.
Hi there. Thank you so much. I was going to try to remove the underbelly cover myself, but I'm not sure I would know what I am looking for. Thanks for the plumbing leaks reminder. I think this is another possibility, although most damage seems to have come from one of the skylight leaks. I'll post more once I go through it after rain last night.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:45 AM   #9
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Thank you

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Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird View Post
First, Congratulations on beating cancer!

Then, you've repaired the roof which should help keep it dry. Also, check all seals around the windows for leaks. Then get someone to crawl under it to see if there are any tears in the underbelly where water might get in. Run water through the rv to see if you've got any plumbing leaks. I agree that the water damage must be fixed and it sounds like you've gotten some good advice on how to do it. Not everything has to be fixed to factory specs to make it usable.

Unfortunately, I don't know of a mobile rv technician in your area that can help you with the electric, but it sounds like you need one to help you trace down those problems. It could be something simple. Are you certain the battery is hooked up properly?

As to whether it's safe to travel down the road, the person who fixes rvs might be able to tell you.
I appreciate the encouragement. Thank you. Between Cancer and COVID, I am changing priorities. Working 70 hours a week at age 59 is no longer the goal. Funny how life is. Or as a friend says, "Man Plans, God Laughs."
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:49 AM   #10
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The two places on the power distribution center where the 40a fuses plug in are the reverse polarity protection fuses for the converter to the battery.

Those fuses protect the converter and the battery wiring should someone connect the battery cables backwards.

That is where I'd start looking for an issue.
Did you replace the battery(ies)?
After sitting for two years. I'd imagine so.

It could be possible you have the battery wires connected improperly. It is an easy mistake made by many as black is often the hot (positive) and white is ground (negative) in the R/V world on the DC battery side of things.

The other possibility is if you have no battery connected, it could be the positive wire is laying loose, touching the frame (or metal something) and shorting out, thereby blowing the fuse.

And yes. you could have water damage to some other part of the DC wiring but let us know what you have as far as at the battery/wires/connections and we can proceed further.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
I have not and do not smell it, which is misleading and I have only been in it for short periods. I think that is a great question for health considerations. I'm not sure how to go about testing, but with all that moisture, I have to believe it is present somewhere. Whether it can be contained in the walls and flooring or by doing some type of complete wipe down or mold bomb, I don't know and am open to ideas.

Mold can cause all sorts of health problems. Test kits are sold at big box stores. Also an air sample can be taken, which is what I would recommend. I used to do this when I inspected houses so a Home Inspector might do it. A Industrial Hygienist would do it too. I would suspect you have mold issues, OSB is a very good medium for mold.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:28 AM   #12
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Hey picker, you are in my home state! My hometown is Huntingdon. Well, I think I'm a complete moron. I switched the cables on the battery and now have lights on the panel. I can't believe I would be that stupid . But it has been a while. I just checked and have no moisture in from last night's rain so there's two strokes of good news just doing basic exploratory. No power to water heater or fuel pump but I will check now for other fuse problems. The fridge lights are at least coming on. Unbelievable
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:29 AM   #13
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I just added a new post but I'm not sure I did it in line to your comment. Thank you
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:27 AM   #14
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You mentioned the roof fixes looked promising, but that you might redo the roof. If you have fixed the leaking problem, and at least so far it seems positive that you did, my personal opinion would be leave the roof alone. Anything that coupld re-introduce the leak is something I would avoid like the plague, or maybe more appropriately in todays environment, avoid like COVID-19.

Assuming you fixed the leak, I would suggest that you save that money, and invest it in other areas of greater need. I would also recommend you put Eternabond tape on the roof. There are lots of posts about it, it is a great product that will last for 20 years. A lot cheaper than any type of roof replacement.
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:51 AM   #15
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Semper Fi!!!

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You mentioned the roof fixes looked promising, but that you might redo the roof. If you have fixed the leaking problem, and at least so far it seems positive that you did, my personal opinion would be leave the roof alone. Anything that coupld re-introduce the leak is something I would avoid like the plague, or maybe more appropriately in todays environment, avoid like COVID-19.

Assuming you fixed the leak, I would suggest that you save that money, and invest it in other areas of greater need. I would also recommend you put Eternabond tape on the roof. There are lots of posts about it, it is a great product that will last for 20 years. A lot cheaper than any type of roof replacement.
I was looking at a basic roof sealant which was pretty affordable, but I don't know that it needs it. I will make a note on the Eternabond. Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:54 AM   #16
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stupid is ...

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The two places on the power distribution center where the 40a fuses plug in are the reverse polarity protection fuses for the converter to the battery.

Those fuses protect the converter and the battery wiring should someone connect the battery cables backwards.

That is where I'd start looking for an issue.
Did you replace the battery(ies)?
After sitting for two years. I'd imagine so.

It could be possible you have the battery wires connected improperly. It is an easy mistake made by many as black is often the hot (positive) and white is ground (negative) in the R/V world on the DC battery side of things.

The other possibility is if you have no battery connected, it could be the positive wire is laying loose, touching the frame (or metal something) and shorting out, thereby blowing the fuse.

And yes. you could have water damage to some other part of the DC wiring but let us know what you have as far as at the battery/wires/connections and we can proceed further.
Can you believe I reversed the battery. Ugh. Onward to try to track down inline fuses for water pump, water heater (propane) and fridge where at least I have lights 4-28-20 11amE
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:56 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by richminaya View Post
Hey picker, you are in my home state! My hometown is Huntingdon. Well, I think I'm a complete moron. I switched the cables on the battery and now have lights on the panel. I can't believe I would be that stupid . But it has been a while. I just checked and have no moisture in from last night's rain so there's two strokes of good news just doing basic exploratory. No power to water heater or fuel pump but I will check now for other fuse problems. The fridge lights are at least coming on. Unbelievable
Welcome to the forum from SW PA. Near Somerset.
Huntingdon isn't far at all... but a ways from MI!

Now that you have the battery connected correctly, did you replace the two 40a fuses in the converter that were blown?
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
The two places on the power distribution center where the 40a fuses plug in are the reverse polarity protection fuses for the converter to the battery.

Those fuses protect the converter and the battery wiring should someone connect the battery cables backwards.

That is where I'd start looking for an issue.
Did you replace the battery(ies)?
After sitting for two years. I'd imagine so.

It could be possible you have the battery wires connected improperly. It is an easy mistake made by many as black is often the hot (positive) and white is ground (negative) in the R/V world on the DC battery side of things.

The other possibility is if you have no battery connected, it could be the positive wire is laying loose, touching the frame (or metal something) and shorting out, thereby blowing the fuse.

And yes. you could have water damage to some other part of the DC wiring but let us know what you have as far as at the battery/wires/connections and we can proceed further.

Funny how much starts to improve when you correct polarity and replace the two 40 amp reverse battery fuses. JEESH.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:54 AM   #19
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Water Pump

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Welcome to the forum from SW PA. Near Somerset.
Huntingdon isn't far at all... but a ways from MI!

Now that you have the battery connected correctly, did you replace the two 40a fuses in the converter that were blown?
Yep! Now that makes a diff. Fridge has DC and is running or trying to .. need to clear out the propane lines and get fresh additional gas.

* Working on water pump which may be fried. I checked the panel and the light now comes on inside the switch. The fuse at the water pump does not appear to be blown, but I replaced it and then the water pump did try to run for a couple seconds and shut off. Hmmmm. Gonna be fun squeezing 250 pounds under the bed to get at that ... More soon. Laptop in rv off hotspot. This sure beats the desk job.
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:14 PM   #20
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Great news! Glad things are coming together.
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