Using external handpump to winterize Leprechaun

[ShilohJB]

I have used an air compressor at 30 psi to remove water from the lines of my 24 foot Class C Leprechaun by Coachmen. Now I want to use a hand held manual hand pump to push antifreeze through the lines by attaching the pump to the fresh waterline. Here is my question: There is a blue switch above the connection. Pointing the blue switch DOWN, it points at the word CITY. Pointing it to the LEFT, it points at the words TANK FILL/WINTERIZE.
In which direction should I point the blue switch? I sure don't want to fill the fresh water tank with antifreeze!
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
JB

[Scrapper]

The switch you ask about is actually a valve that directs the water / antifreeze to where you want it to go. You leave the valve pointing to the city position if you use a hand pump to push antifreeze into the system.

If you turn the valve to the Tank Fill/Winterize position you can either fill your fresh water tank or push antifreeze through the system using the water pump. There should be another valve you have to turn so the antifreeze will go into the system instead of the fresh water tank.

[ShilohJB]

When I removed an interior panel to see the fresh water tank, there is a valve on the water line feed that is in the open position. I am assuming I should not touch that unless I use the water pump to distribute the antifreeze. Using the hand pump, I'll leave that as is. Does that sound right?

The water pump on the Leprechaun is impossible to reach by removable panels or access doors. Even the techs at the rv dealership had to reach through a very small opening up to their armpit and feel blindly for it. Irritating design flaw!

Thanks for your reply.

[Scrapper]

Just leave that valve as it is if you have never used the FW tank. Just watch it when you pump the antifreeze in. If you see AF going to the FW tank then you have a check valve stuck at the FW pump. If you have water in the FW tank, you should turn your pump on/off a couple of times to push some water through your system letting the valve reseat.

[ShilohJB]

Thanks, Scrapper,
My wife had put water in the FW tank unbeknownst to me. She turned the blue valve to the left, then down again after she finished the partial filling. I'll run the antifreeze with the external pump tomorrow and keep an eye on the FW tank.
Thanks!

[Scrapper]

There should be a small screen filter on the input side of the water pump that you will have to empty the water out of.

On the output of the water pump in many RV's there is a cartridge filter that you need to empty the water out of and remove the cartridge. Many people will put a empty water bottle in there so it doesn't take as much AF to winterize.

The main thing to remember is it doesn't take much water to freeze up and crack the faucets and the toilet flush valve. The plastic elbows and tee's are the next to crack. The PEX tubing will handle frozen water. Be sure to put a couple of inches in the toilet bowl, enough to cover the ball valve by about an inch.

[poppagary]

I agree with the other posts that the switch needs to be in the city water position or you will pump antifreeze into your fresh water tank. A couple of other considerations is to make sure you have turned the valves to stop any flow to your water heater and open your low point drain to eliminate any back pressure in your lines. It took me just under 2 gallons of AF to winterize my Leprechaun 318. Remember to close the low point drain; the water heater by-pass switches can be changed back when you de-winterize and flush the system in the spring.

[amblt]

I've used that method, and it works very well. I use a centrifugal pump run by an electric drill. I once forgot that I had used the fresh water tank and electric pump that season on one trip. I then forgot to run some antifreeze through the pump to clear the water out and that was a costly error.