Water pouring into trailer from City hookup! Help please!

[DustyRoads]

Sometimes regular hose clamps won't hold the pressure from city water. I would try a PEX clamp again. In the future try to switch out to PEX piping if possible.

[flosmith]

Success!
Found a hardware store with the minimum 1/2” hose clamp. Cut off the crimped clamp off the PEX line and using a 5/16” ratchet, finally got it tight enough to hold without leaks or drips.
Thank you all very much for your assistance!
We will be turning off the water at the spigot when we leave the trailer!
Now I have to wash last night’s dishes!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by flosmith

Success!
Found a hardware store with the minimum 1/2” hose clamp. Cut off the crimped clamp off the PEX line and using a 5/8” ratchet, finally got it tight enough to hold without leaks or drips.
Thank you all very much for your assistance!
We will be turning off the water at the spigot when we leave the trailer!
Now I have to wash last night’s dishes!

Good job!!

You must have meant to write 5/16.

[flosmith]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

You must have meant to write 5/16.

Yes I did! I’ll edit to correct!
Thanks!

[Waterops1]

On braided hose, I believe what the factory uses are Oetiker clamps. These clamps have two “ears” that get crimped with special pliers. I carry several sizes and the tools just in case. I also use them when making modifications to plumbing when it is not PEX. These clamps hold very well when installed properly; a PIA to remove although the same installation tool can be turned to cut the ears.

[The Evil Twin]

Originally Posted by Waterops1

On braided hose, I believe what the factory uses are Oetiker clamps. These clamps have two “ears” that get crimped with special pliers. I carry several sizes and the tools just in case. I also use them when making modifications to plumbing when it is not PEX. These clamps hold very well when installed properly; a PIA to remove although the same installation tool can be turned to cut the ears.

That is good to know. I believe I'll have to get a little tool kit of those!

[kholmes]

Would just like to add this is an important reminder to turn the water off to your rig when you leave to go out. What do you think would of happened if this broke loose when nobody was their?? The rig would be written off.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by flosmith

Yes. Pressure reducer is on. Always.

Be careful with products sold as pressure reducers ,they are usually nothing more than a flow reducer. You need a pressure regulator, not a flow/pressure reducer.

The difference is a regulator lowers the line pressure but not the flow volume, it does this whether water is being used or not. A reducer lowers the line pressure and flow only while water is being used, once the faucet or shower is turned off the pressure inside your rv will rise to the pressure of the supply line.

For instance, if the cg supply spigot pressure is at 80psi and the reducer lowers it to 40psi while you fave the kitchen faucet open, once the faucet is closed the line pressure will stabilize to equal the 80psi supply pressure.

[Jlome]

Most likely a pex fitting let loose you have to repair with proper pex fittings and tool

[kckid168]

Did you have a water pressure reducer hooked up. If not high water pressure will make you lines leak .

[GnS]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

There are pipe threads and pipe threads. Some are tapered, like the old iron pipe threads. Some are not.

You always use sealant or Teflon tape on tapered threads. Straight thread fittings always use either a rubber washer, a compression or cone ring, or flared tubing. There is no need to use sealant or Teflon tape on any of these three types. In fact, the tape or sealant will be pushed off when you tighten the fitting.

That is absolutely correct. Especially true for plastic fittings.

[Utahsong]

Beware of water settling underneath in the underbelly if your unit has a covered bottom. It will tear and become a major problem in the future.

[Bl5yd55]

Originally Posted by flosmith

Yes. Pressure reducer is on. Always.

Pressure reducer is a must, you never know how close you are to a water tower or secondary pump.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Clamped too far back. By a pack of S.S. hose clamps and fix that one and start checking the others and replace as necessary. I did 3 on our 2018 Cherokee when I bought it. Also went and tightened all hose fittings on the back of faucets, pretty much everyone of them was loose.

[nomad297]

When things leak or blow apart in an RV plumbing system it has very little to do with the incoming water pressure. Even with the “mythical” air pocket inside of your (tank-type) water heater, the water pressure in your system is going to climb well above what everybody seems to think is the maximum pressure you should allow to enter the system every time your water heater fires and you aren’t using any fixtures. An RV’s potable water system is a closed one due to the check valve at the “city” inlet. When the water heats in the water heater, the system’s pressure —hot side and cold side — increases to as much as 150psi. Have you ever wondered why the temperature and pressure relief valve on your water heater drips sometimes or why there is sometimes a small puddle of water inside of the water heater access panel? This happens when the pressure in the system reaches 150psi — the T&P valve will relieve water and air until the pressure gets to just below 150psi. Have you ever noticed a surge of higher flow when you first turn on a faucet, then it quickly drops down to the normal flow? This is telling you the same thing — the pressure in your system has increased due to thermal expansion.

Most of the time (if you have a tank-type water heater) the pressure in your system is much higher than whatever the incoming pressure is. The point I am trying to make is, your RV is supposed to be able to handle water pressure much higher than what everybody seems to think. When things leak or blow apart it is due to poor workmanship and improperly calibrated crimping tools — it’s going to happen whether you have a pressure reducing valve, or not. You cannot argue the physics of thermal expansion in a closed water system. You can, however, cancel-out the thermal expansion pressure increase by installing a properly charged thermal expansion tank, but most RVs don’t afford the space to install one.

Bruce

[GlowPlug]

What nomad297 said....

[wurlitzer28]

Originally Posted by nomad297

When things leak or blow apart in an RV plumbing system it has very little to do with the incoming water pressure. Even with the “mythical” air pocket inside of your (tank-type) water heater, the water pressure in your system is going to climb well above what everybody seems to think is the maximum pressure you should allow to enter the system every time your water heater fires and you aren’t using any fixtures. An RV’s potable water system is a closed one due to the check valve at the “city” inlet. When the water heats in the water heater, the system’s pressure —hot side and cold side — increases to as much as 150psi. Have you ever wondered why the temperature and pressure relief valve on your water heater drips sometimes or why there is sometimes a small puddle of water inside of the water heater access panel? This happens when the pressure in the system reaches 150psi — the T&P valve will relieve water and air until the pressure gets to just below 150psi. Have you ever noticed a surge of higher flow when you first turn on a faucet, then it quickly drops down to the normal flow? This is telling you the same thing — the pressure in your system has increased due to thermal expansion.

Most of the time (if you have a tank-type water heater) the pressure in your system is much higher than whatever the incoming pressure is. The point I am trying to make is, your RV is supposed to be able to handle water pressure much higher than what everybody seems to think. When things leak or blow apart it is due to poor workmanship and improperly calibrated crimping tools — it’s going to happen whether you have a pressure reducing valve, or not. You cannot argue the physics of thermal expansion in a closed water system. You can, however, cancel-out the thermal expansion pressure increase by installing a properly charged thermal expansion tank, but most RVs don’t afford the space to install one.

Bruce

Just suffered what I believe to be this issue with the Water Heater. Had the original FR1 water filter housing in our 2014 Georgetown, and only had the RV's pump running {not connected to any city/park water} We turned on the Water heater and about 30 minutes later, a loud bang and the water compartment was in self cleaning mode with the water filter holder acting as a giant spray head.

[Scott V.]

OP should consider placing Damp Rid in that area to suck up excess moisture. It's worked for me for leaks and amazing the amount of moisture it can remove from an area. Takes about a week for it to produce results, but be sure to have more to replace the first one.
Google Damp Rid to find out where to purchase in your area.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Scott V.

OP should consider placing Damp Rid in that area to suck up excess moisture. It's worked for me for leaks and amazing the amount of moisture it can remove from an area. Takes about a week for it to produce results, but be sure to have more to replace the first one.
Google Damp Rid to find out where to purchase in your area.

Or simply put a small (20-25 pint) dehumidifier in the shower. Leave the tank off and just let it drip into the shower and hence to the gray tank.

We have one in each trailer operating full time. I pick them up on Craigslist for $25.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by DustyRoads

Sometimes regular hose clamps won't hold the pressure from city water. I would try a PEX clamp again. In the future try to switch out to PEX piping if possible.

Dusty, look at the picture here. The tubing is not PEX. It's that clear tubing with the embedded nylon string mesh. It's way too soft for a PEX ring--needs more compression.

And if you look at the original clamp, you will see that it's not a PEX clamp. It's that other kind called a "stepless single ear clamp."

They use a different tool.