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Old 10-19-2016, 07:02 AM   #1
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Winterizing DIY

If your any bit of mechanically inclined I would recommend winterizing your camper your self. I am a first year owner and nearest RV place is over a hour drive for me. It cost me about $8 and 15 minutes to do my 201BHXL which is pretty basic. Attach a hose and proper connector to your fresh water pump. Put the hose in the antifreeze jug and turn the pump and faucets till you get pink in the sink. Here is what I bought. My pump is a Shurflo brand. RV place was going to charge around $135 and the hassle of taking it in.

Straight fittings 1/2 fpt x 1/2 barb with wings - SHURFLO was $1.98 on ebay

3ft of poly 1/2 inside diameter hose from lowes. $1.12

2 jugs of Pink RV antifreeze. $5 at walmart.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:07 AM   #2
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I suggest getting the valve kit below for a permanent install.

Winterizing Valve Kit
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:13 AM   #3
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I suggest getting the valve kit below for a permanent install.

Winterizing Valve Kit
I was afraid of it leaking and unsure if it would fit my pump so I steered away. My pump is so easy to access in less than 30 seconds and its turned to where the inlet is right there.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:41 AM   #4
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I was afraid of it leaking and unsure if it would fit my pump so I steered away. My pump is so easy to access in less than 30 seconds and its turned to where the inlet is right there.
I hope you bypassed your water heater? If not a little extra flushing in the spring is in order. The plus I see from winterizing yourself other then the money savings is you learn about the systems of your rig.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:44 AM   #5
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Also, don't forget the city water connection. There is a check valve behind the screen that you need to push in until you see antifreeze come out. Stand to the side when you do this or you will get sprayed.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:52 AM   #6
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I blow mine out.
Open low point drains.
Open all faucets/toilets.
Drain water heater and turn bypass valve.
Close low drains and faucets
Connect air comp to city water inlet.
Open/close faucets/toilets one at a time to blow out.
Open/close low drains to blow out.
Disconnect air comp.
Pour about 1cup anti freeze down each drain to fill trap.
Only need one gallon anti freeze and no lines to flush in spring.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:27 AM   #7
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I hope you bypassed your water heater? If not a little extra flushing in the spring is in order. The plus I see from winterizing yourself other then the money savings is you learn about the systems of your rig.
Yup bypassed water heater. Drained it out too.
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:27 AM   #8
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Ditto on the blowing out.

Drain water heater. Hook up 5HP air compressor with 25 gallon tank to the city water input and blow away.

But then fortunately I live in California where it does not get extremely cold either ;-)
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:57 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by AGFazio View Post
I blow mine out.
Open low point drains.
Open all faucets/toilets.
Drain water heater and turn bypass valve.
Close low drains and faucets
Connect air comp to city water inlet.
Open/close faucets/toilets one at a time to blow out.
Open/close low drains to blow out.
Disconnect air comp.
Pour about 1cup anti freeze down each drain to fill trap.
Only need one gallon anti freeze and no lines to flush in spring.

Don't forget to blowout your black tank rinse if you have one.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:58 AM   #10
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DIY winterizing question...
I blow my lines out with air, but i also run anti-freeze through the lines for added protection.

Once you run the anti-freeze throughout the camper, should i leave any spigots (kitchen/bathroom faucets/shower) open through the winter to relieve any line pressure? The anti-freeze does slush up in extreme cold, so i wonder if there would still be some "push" outward on the lines? I did push the city water connection inlet valve after running anti-freeze... is that enough to depressurize the system?
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by KDHfan View Post
DIY winterizing question...
I blow my lines out with air, but i also run anti-freeze through the lines for added protection.

Once you run the anti-freeze throughout the camper, should i leave any spigots (kitchen/bathroom faucets/shower) open through the winter to relieve any line pressure? The anti-freeze does slush up in extreme cold, so i wonder if there would still be some "push" outward on the lines? I did push the city water connection inlet valve after running anti-freeze... is that enough to depressurize the system?
RV antifreeze will slush up but unlike water it does not expand when frozen.

Most folks (including myself) depressurize the system by opening a faucet or toilet valve long enough to relieve the pressure once the pump is turned off. (as an added measure) Depending on how long you held open the city water check valve you may have depressurized the system but maybe not?
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:36 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply. I think ill head back to the camper and open, then close, a spigot just to be sure. I cant think of a disadvantage to doing this, so i'll take the extra step. Thanks again.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:51 PM   #13
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Don't forget to blowout your black tank rinse if you have one.
Great tip, I forgot about it! Thanks
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