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Old 10-11-2014, 07:40 PM   #21
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Winterizing & Air Compressors

I just wanted to thank all of you for great advice in this thread. My little 2 gallon compressor was more than adequate to blow out me water system. I followed up by pumping the "pink stuff" through all faucets and filled P traps and additional pink in the holding tanks. All went very well. I think we are ready for what I hope will be a heavy snow year in Idaho. We need the water!
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:09 PM   #22
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My air compressor is exactly like the pancake one in post #3. I let it pump up to 100#, have the wife open a faucet, and let her rip. The air pressure drops quite rapidly, and you don't really have 100# anywhere in the system. (Remember - the system should be able to handle more than the 45# that most water regulators are set to.)

I've done the 2 years prior to this and just did it last a few days ago. Don't forget the toilet line.
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:50 PM   #23
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Good info. I'm in the "blow out lines with air and then pump antifreeze" camp. Can't be too careful, and it's cheap insurance. I like blowing the lines out first to get as much water out as possible--that way, you're not diluting your AF with all that water. I was also glad that someone mentioned (might have been in a different thread) about blowing out your black tank flush lines. This is my first winterization that I have a black tank flush. It might have occurred to me to do it if I hadn't read it first, but that was a good tidbit. Opened the valve, hooked up the air, and let her rip. There's a good bit of plumbing between the hookup up front and the tank in the back, that would have been a mess to find and fix if it had frozen and burst. Thanks again for all the suggestions!
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:15 PM   #24
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I use a drill pump to pump pink stuff into the washer connections. Pump will pink is coming out each facet.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:29 PM   #25
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I like blowing the lines out first to get as much water out as possible--that way, you're not diluting your AF with all that water
Contrary to popular belief, a little dilution is a good thing. In fact, you want to dilute it a bit. The numbers for the pink stuff (which is propylene glycol -PG) won't be the same as for ethylene glycol -EG, which is in your TV radiator, but they're similar. For EG, 100% is good down to about 10 degF. If you dilute to 65% EG, you're good to the max at about minus 60 deg F. At less than 65% EG, it starts going up again to 32 degF. (It works in a similar fashion for the boiling point.) On the other hand, I believe that PG is better at all percents of dilution than EG, but if you're pumping it until it comes out pink at the faucet, I doubt what's left in the lines is very dilute. You're basically pushing a slug of water; very little mixing can occur.

See the graph for EG here: https://www.google.com/search?q=anti...29%3B620%3B418

Couldn't find any graphs for PG, but Dow Chemical has a table. They don't bother to show you the freezing temp for >60% PG because it's already below minus 60 degF at that concentration, so I can't tell you when it starts going back up, or how far. See pg 7:
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedL...romPage=GetDoc
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:12 AM   #26
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I have used the antifreeze method for the last three years. Ran into my first problem when dewinterizing this spring. The bottom (cold water) valve into water heater (one of the bypass valves) had a ruptured o'ring. Believe this was due to valve not fully in closed position and residual water at bottom of WH caused the o'ring to pop). Had to replace the valve in Algonquin Park. This required purchasing crimper. (: not a happy camper.
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Old 10-12-2014, 02:00 PM   #27
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I have used the antifreeze method for the last three years. Ran into my first problem when dewinterizing this spring. The bottom (cold water) valve into water heater (one of the bypass valves) had a ruptured o'ring. Believe this was due to valve not fully in closed position and residual water at bottom of WH caused the o'ring to pop). Had to replace the valve in Algonquin Park. This required purchasing crimper. (: not a happy camper.
I had a similar problem at the beginning of the 2013 season. If your valve looks like this one, I would suggest replacing it with different ones. These seem to be crap.
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Old 10-12-2014, 02:19 PM   #28
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We have been winter camping for a long time now. We use our water during those trips and winterize many times throughout the winter. I NEVER use a compressor. Only pink. To each their own but if you use pink properly using a compressor is not necessary.
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Old 10-12-2014, 03:37 PM   #29
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RockfordRoo .. thanks for the suggestion. The original valves was plastic and replaced with one which looks like the one on the left. hope it comes thru this winter.
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:41 AM   #30
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I live in the Great White North where winter temps can get as low as -40 and have done nothing but blow out my water lines for the last 15 years (my wife claimed she could taste the antifreeze even after rinsing the system several times) and have never had a problem. A small residual amount of water in the lines and tanks should be okay as long as your piping is plastic (it does have some flexibility). Be sure to add antifreeze to drains so that the traps are filled.

In the spring all I have to do is hook up the water and go. No flushing lines or tanks😀.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:01 AM   #31
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I live in the Great White North where winter temps can get as low as -40 and have done nothing but blow out my water lines for the last 15 years (my wife claimed she could taste the antifreeze even after rinsing the system several times) and have never had a problem. A small residual amount of water in the lines and tanks should be okay as long as your piping is plastic (it does have some flexibility). Be sure to add antifreeze to drains so that the traps are filled.

In the spring all I have to do is hook up the water and go. No flushing lines or tanks😀.
Ditto - and one would be able to spring for a decent compressor for a fraction of what one would spend for all that "pink" over time.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:37 AM   #32
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Ditto X2 on Rhoyle's post. I've been doing air-only (and a wee bit of pink for p-traps) for 9 years without a problem. Might take a little longer in the fall but is a whole lot faster getting ready for the first trip in the spring. No flushing, no sanitizing - fill and go.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:24 AM   #33
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Winterizing help - Air Compressors

FR manual says to use compressed air or RV Antifreeze. I don't fully understand why some people use both. Is it based on experience or "gut feeling" or simply "better safe than sorry?"
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:32 AM   #34
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The fear of fixing a valve or Pipe is stronger than thier fear of more work!...lol...either method DONE PROPERLY will work....

I drain what I can via reg method (low point and wh plug) then pop on the compressor ....open each line until dry air shoots out , then pour some pink in all yhe drains...

Course its not quite 'arctic' here in west texas. Lol
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:25 PM   #35
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One thing to keep in mind is to use an oil-less compressor or use a filter to filter out any oil in the airlines to prevent contamination of your camper water lines.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:32 PM   #36
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One thing to keep in mind is to use an oil-less compressor or use a filter to filter out any oil in the airlines to prevent contamination of your camper water lines.
Silly question...but if I am shopping for an air compressor how do I know if it's oil-less or not?
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:53 PM   #37
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Most of the inexpensive ones are oil-less. You can get one at Harbor Freight for $50! The ones that use oil have a reservoir for oil and a dipstick.
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