For what it's worth, it worth a lot-a home away from home. Congrats!
We got our 2500TS late June 2015. The unit had cloth seats so we opted for high quality seat covers from Seat Covers Unlimited in Utah (Quality, Custom Auto Seat Covers From Seat Covers Unlimited
). They are made to order, so it may take several weeks. I had to send them pictures, so they could tell me if they could do it. Checking the website this morning, they don't list the E-series ford chassis, but they have the patterns and will make them. They have a customer support staff that are excellent to deal with. We ordered the seat covers (with two map pockets), arm rest covers, and shoulder pads for the seat belts. Our cab was tan, the company suggested taupe
and they were right on. If you can pull material tight and can tie a knot, you can install these covers. We are sold on the Scottsdale series. The complete set was around $240 delivered.
A lot of after market seat covers we have seen are pretty tacky, look cheap and don't last. The Scottsdale material is rich looking, heavy patterned, has extra padding sewn in, and look terrific.We have had these covers in 2 pickups for several years of daily use.We have a set in our Silverado for 3 years and they show no wear. And talk about attention to detail? The Silverado has side air bags in the seat sides. They use a Velcro seam to allow the bags to inflate. We have had a lot of compliments on these covers, once people realize they are actually seat covers and not upgrade upholstery. There was no doubt we wanted them in our Sunseeker.
Other things that didn't cost a bundle, but significantly improved the use:
Cab dome light: Ours was incandescent and got extremely hot. Located a LED fixture on eBay with the same dimensions. It also has an on/off switch for convenience.
LED Interior and basement conversion: We used the cup type that look like a miniature ping pong paddle in daylight white. I found that a spatula worked well for seating them into the sockets.
Plumbing: You probably have a hot water heater bypass---if you can find it. Our is under the kitchen sink and under the cabinet floor. If yours is similar, open the cabinet door under the sink and there is a square finished panel under the cabinet. This panel is permanently attached (don't ask why). Very carefully, it can be removed without significant damage. The bypass valves are then exposed.
Our 2500TS did not have a winterizing valve for anti freeze. There was 7.5" to work with. I measured and researched. I replaced the fitting at the "in"-side of the water pump. Using the same sediment filter, the fitting allowed enough space to get a bi-pass fitting above the filter, and to maintain 7.5". It is a detail that FR should have included in the build. To do this, you will need side cutters to nip the pex connectors off at the "crown", brass fittings as needed, a pex crimping tool ($25 on Amazon), Pex pipe cutting "shears", a bag of 1/2" crimp rings, and clear 1/2" Pex pipe from a building supply or plumbing shop, and the valve. The braided does not work with pex-they require different fittings. Oddly, one of the brass bypass valves is nearly the same price as the hot water tank bypass valve kit. I ordered the kit to have a spare valve and to use some of the pipe with fittings. The tools and rings are handy to have with you on the road.
In the same area, are the low point drains, The blue (cold) will likely have a on/off valve in the basement near the water pump. However, the red (hot) low-point line will cap off under the RV. While putting in the Winterizing valve, I cut the red line near the blue line shut off and inserted an in-line valve for the hot water drain, then clipped off the cap underneath. No need to crawl under the camper to winterize.
Kitchen Faucets: One of the easiest upgrades was converting to single lever kitchen faucet. The original faucet design splashed a lot of water outside the sink. The new one has a longer arm and a pull-out rinse hose. Choose this fixture wisely for hole spacing.
UNDERCOATED: Yes, screaming with capital letters! Messy, but necessary. None of the metal underneath was protected. I noticed this because of rust spots on the drive. I used a combination of Rustoleum rubberized undercoat in spray cans and Rusoleum bed liner coating purchased from WalMart.These cans spray to the last drop. For less than a hundred dollars, it was a great investment in longevity. If you choose this route, I used about 5 cans of bed liner coating for areas such as the hitch and structure that showed. About 8 cans to do the under structure, wheel wells, cab under-floors, behind the front bumper, and any other painted or bare metal on the underside. If you choose to do this, you will need goggles, face filter mask, movable tarp to catch droppings, drop cloth to cover exhaust pipe runs,disposable clothing, and mineral spirits for clean up.
A little lengthy, but hopefully useful advise.