Help! Just got back from Florida trip and was trying to unload MH and the slide-out faults. (at least I was at home before it faulted) Getting light error code #2 motor short. Kitchen slide front side moving about 4 inches out then stopping, rear side motor will keep moving if I let it. Tried to remove motor from the interior but can not get it to lift up to pull bottom of motor out. I have watched many of the repair videos(they make it look real easy) but I must be missing something.
Which side of wall do you remove the Schwintek motor? Interior or exterior?
Ah, the ol' Schwintek. I THINK it's from the inside but I won't swear to that. Watch more Youtube. If you find a motor has burnt out and you want to replace it, there are several different motors that will fit, and some are stronger than others. (I don't have the exact numbers). See if you can get the stronger ones.
EDIT.... you're saying it moves a little then stops? That would indicate the motor is not dead, unless it's the other one that's getting it to move the 4".... Did you retract and hold the switch for 10 seconds?
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2020 RAM 3500 DRW Long Horn. In the hunt for a Palomino TC, formerly a 2017 Berkshire 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
Ah, the ol' Schwintek. I THINK it's from the inside but I won't swear to that. Watch more Youtube. If you find a motor has burnt out and you want to replace it, there are several different motors that will fit, and some are stronger than others. (I don't have the exact numbers). See if you can get the stronger ones.
EDIT.... you're saying it moves a little then stops? That would indicate the motor is not dead, unless it's the other one that's getting it to move the 4".... Did you retract and hold the switch for 10 seconds?
Hey Oscar
Yes, 3 or 4 times, and reset the box in basement.
Thanks for finding that manual, I've added it to my collection.
And again, there's different Amp motors. See what you have and if you can upgrade it. I have a pair of spares with me that are a higher Amp rating for when mine blow out.
Keep us posted.
As a side note, I've taken to leaning the coach a little with the levelers to help the kitchen slide. I can tell from the sound that it makes a difference.
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2020 RAM 3500 DRW Long Horn. In the hunt for a Palomino TC, formerly a 2017 Berkshire 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
Attached photos of the seal that I pull back to expose the screw that holds the motor from moving. see Slide-out pics.
1st I put the system in Manual Override so I could move the side out at least half way to work on it from both sides. I realized then that the motor was OK because I could go in and out without a problem but you have no current overload protection in this mode (so be careful not to run to the end in either direction). 2nd I got the motor out of H frame and it was a 500:1 so I ordered one on E-bay but I decided to see if I could find any problem with the motor or the "Hall Effect Sensor" (It sends a pulse count to the module in basement to keep sync with each motor) it's mounted on the back end of the motor with plastic cap over it. see Lippert pic. 3rd It has a small round circuit board that has the rotary sensor and 6 wires soldered into the board. I decided to touch each soldered spot with a hot gun to insure that the board didn't have a cold soldered connection. 4th I replaced the motor back in the H frame to see if it would work after the repair and then making sure I took system back out of the Manual Override mode.
That is AWESOME. I love it when we can fix things, cheaply, and not suffer at the hands of a dealer for weeks.
Although I understand physically exactly what you did I have to do some research to get my head around the "Hall Effect"....
And on edit.... I guess it senses when the thing stops moving and then the brain sets a zero point, either in or out ? This is why you have to hold the switch a few seconds after it stops, so the sensor can sense.
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2020 RAM 3500 DRW Long Horn. In the hunt for a Palomino TC, formerly a 2017 Berkshire 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
That is AWESOME. I love it when we can fix things, cheaply, and not suffer at the hands of a dealer for weeks.
Although I understand physically exactly what you did I have to do some research to get my head around the "Hall Effect"....
And on edit.... I guess it senses when the thing stops moving and then the brain sets a zero point, either in or out ? This is why you have to hold the switch a few seconds after it stops, so the sensor can sense.
Oscar
It has a (1 1/4"~)wheel (I believe is carbon made or magnetic) direct mounted to the motor shaft and 2 receiver sensors mount on the circuit board mounted next to the wheel. The sensors send pulses to the module in the basement (look in early manual pdf for picture of basement module) which counts the pulses from both motors to determine start, stop and moving position.
This is my understanding at this point, I couldn't find the exact picture of the Hall Effect sensor but I found similar sensors when I Goggled for info.
Thanks, John
We can talk to this issue more at the end of April's rally.
Sure will. And I did look at the manual. From the fact that you were able to do a manual override I deduce you had one of the controllers that allows that. The older ones don't appear to. Next time I'm in my basement I'll have to look at the controller. I do carry spare motors.
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2020 RAM 3500 DRW Long Horn. In the hunt for a Palomino TC, formerly a 2017 Berkshire 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
It has a (1 1/4"~)wheel (I believe is carbon made or magnetic) direct mounted to the motor shaft and 2 receiver sensors mount on the circuit board mounted next to the wheel. The sensors send pulses to the module in the basement (look in early manual pdf for picture of basement module) which counts the pulses from both motors to determine start, stop and moving position.
This is my understanding at this point, I couldn't find the exact picture of the Hall Effect sensor but I found similar sensors when I Goggled for info.
Thanks, John
We can talk to this issue more at the end of April's rally.
John,
With a schwintec slide mechanism always hold the button down for 10-15 seconds after full retract or full extend to "re-sync" the motors. (Every time) You may already know this info but I wanted to post it anyway just in case. I will ask Oscar to add this info to the seminar on Monday and Thursday at the Berkshire Rally because I know quite a few Berk owners have at least 1 schwintec slide.
See you soon,
Karen
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Karen and Rick
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