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Old 03-16-2020, 08:04 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by CZNEDY View Post
Gordon, I am bringing mine back in for another slide repair. Everyone talks about the slide plates. I just can't get my head around how these help keep the slide out on plane.


I installed the plates on the slides on my 2015 34qs. They make the slide roll easier which put less stress on the gear racks. Put them on both the kitchen and living room slide.
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Old 03-16-2020, 09:04 PM   #42
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That’s right. The purpose of the aluminum plates is to prevent the white nylon support rollers from digging into the fabric-covered wooden bottom of the slide. Once they dig in, the motor and gearing has too much work to do to move the slide. The slide jams and/or the gears get stripped.
I’ve looked at my living room slide and it isn’t digging in. Indeed, the floor bottom doesn’t even touch one of the rollers. But, others coaches can be different, and if the roller is digging into the floor, the plates are needed.

—Gordon
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2015 Berkshire 34QS
The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:57 AM   #43
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Ok, thank you. I don't have the black material on the underbelly of my slides. Some rollers touch the bottom of the slide and some don't
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Old 03-17-2020, 11:04 AM   #44
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OK. What material is on the bottom of the slides? Wood? My problem was that the wood (behind the black material) wouldn't hold up to the pressure from a roller. If you have a stiffer material that wouldn't be a problem.

I recommend that you look to the bottom of the slide where the rollers hold the slide up during travel. That is where they are most likely to dig in. See if the underside material on the slide is deformed at those points. If so, you need the aluminum plates.

–Gordon
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The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
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Old 08-02-2020, 06:54 PM   #45
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Stuck with slide-out extended

Hi Gordon,

My wife and I are stuck on the road with the slide-out extended on our 2013 Thor ACE 29.9, which uses the Schwintek in a full-side slide. We are able to move the fridge side, but the opposite side whirrs but stays put. We tried all the usual methods to unstick it before discovering a snapped gib in that slide channel, which sounds like it means that the entire H-column needs replacement.

Do you have any recommendations for getting the slide in so we can make the trip home for the long repair? We've tried pulling the motors, but my wife and I are still unable to get it retract.

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Scott
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Old 08-03-2020, 09:35 PM   #46
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Scott,
The official Lippert solution to your problem is to lift the motors up from the top of the racks on both sides of the slide. You access the motors from the inside at the top of the h-column. There is a screw on the outside that holds the motors down – it just goes into a slot in the motor and doesn't bear any load.

Once you have the motors lifted, two people can push the slide in (in theory). Then you need to put blocks (eg 4" by 4") on top of the slide at either end to keep the slide from rolling out while you drive.

If it is hard to push the slides in, consider levelling the coach with the jacks and then lowering one side of the coach and raising the other to get a gravity assist.

Good luck.

–Gordon
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2015 Berkshire 34QS
The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
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Old 08-28-2020, 04:24 PM   #47
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Well I have had this unit for about 3 yrs and I have had the large slide worked on all 3 yrs, sometimes twice in a yr, under warranty---its out of warranty and I had enough.

So I took it to an RV repair shop that would do what I asked, I told them that I was paying for this work, and I do no what you contacting the factory for advice, I was lucky enough to have 2 experienced Mechanics to do this.

Some back story the slide sucks, RV1 in Tampa were I bought it from could not figure how to fix it, the service lady there was dumb has a box of rocks, she said we cannot tell the factory how to fix it, we have to wait for them to tell us how to fix it, even though we know what's wrong-- it has been there now for 2 mths the slide would not go in all the way, it was a brand new unit--

I got fed up with there bull, went in to there place hooked up to it and towed it to Lazydays--I had been working a back channel to do this with Lazy days.

They found many problems with the RV (5th wheel) and took care of it closing all the way, the Factory installed a wrong part underneath the 14 foot slide that stopped it from closing all the way in the back of it. Ok I think its fixed---

We go to the NW, the slide starts to have problems, not opening all the way, its getting stuck, or I have to bring it in and out, the slide is walking--not going out smooth or all at the same time. I am pissed-- I trouble shot it, and the motor that brings the unit in and out has snapped the retaining screw that holds it down into the gear housing has snapped and the motor has spun , no damage at this time to the wiring, I popped the motor up and out , and set it back in and reconnect the wiring harness , and reinstall a new set screw to hold the motor back into the drive gear housing, ok repair done its working sort-a.

Continue--with our 5 mth trip, various stops, and the slide is having a hard time, and for the life of me, cannot find a problem.

Get to Quebec , the slide stops working, drive motor snaps the retaining screw and pops the drive motor up and out of the gear and spins in place and rips the wiring harness apart , I am pissed and screwed at this point-could not find the problem-none. So I pop the other drive motor out, push in the slide by my self, go to a local hardware store get some 2x4s and a hand saw and build a brace to hold the slide in place while we travel to Bangor Maine 300 miles away, yes there was no one around us that had the time or parts on hand to work on it-

So get to our spot and the campground (Cold River) was very nice to us, told them what was going on, and they bent over backwards for us to stay until we could get it repaired. We was given a nice spot for the stay, and I pushed the 14 ft slide with a residential side by side refrigerator out, and started to make phone calls.

So I contacted the local dealer that carries this unit, and his answer was to take it back to were you bought it to have warranty work done on it, I explained to them nicely that that was 1800 away--- are you kidding me (ok here's the unit--321RST Jayco).

So some more phone calls, found an independent repair facility that would handle it, in Orrington Maine. Spent the next week and a half heavy on the phone with Jayco to get things shipped and approve the repairs, that shop said the both sides of the slide would have to have the Schwintek assembly's fully replaced, other warranty stuff was being taken care of also -

They, we I was helping to learn more about this problem pulled off the assembly's and parts were falling off--gear rails were chewed up, guide wheels feel-apart and so one--I know you get the picture. Thinking the new units were going to fix the problem, I was starting to relax, new units installed other warranty work done, and by the way-- I have electrical meters installed to monitor the voltage and amps and so on, and started to pay attention to this while operating the large slide--AKA the problem slide, my Amp readings were avg about 8 amps ish, that's high for the small wires that feed those 2, 500:1 drive motors, so things fixed we start heading out of the cold going home , we stopped a few times things seemed ok but I could sense something wasn't right, in LakeCity SC, it started to have problems again. Ship forward to getting home, found a place that could fix it they said, and they said they have to put metal bracing on the inside of the camper to hold the schwintek stuff form twisting to much, it should not be doing that, I am now thinking there's a problem that someone is not seeing here, so they did that under warranty and replace the gear assembly again! So I tested it before I left the repair shop and it did not work go figure, then they said they had to make a spacer for the back of the gear rail -top and bottom of the same side--ok tested it seem to do the trick-- happy camper-finally --

Well on another trip **** starts to hit the fan, I am having problems with the same slide--I am pissed and out of warranty----

Fast forward to where I am now---the shop that I am paying for--I told them what I needed to have done and no contact with the Jayco factory--I will be calling the shots--period--now these guys were good and after a long chat with them, we were all on the same page--showed them what it was or was not doing, I want the slide pulled out of the unit, was there when it was pulled brought my 2 long and a short level (before this was done unit was leveled inside garage) And measured by level and found that the slide was level, but the floor of the RV 5th wheel was not, the floor had a high point right in the center under the slide and in the middle of a roller that now was not rolling because it was touching on the floor, and the remaining rollers under the slide were not touching the under side, all-and some were not at all, so most of the heavy slide was trying to go in and out on the center roller, ya that was not working well--nice fast forward to the fix---

Ended up taking out all the factory cheap ass rollers that were rated for 200 pounds and were just a cheap nylon sleeved, and replaced them with 400 pound sealed bearing steel and nylon sleeved rollers much better, routed out the spots were I was going to have them install the rollers and made metal shims to install under Neath them so we could adjust the height of each one on the 5th wheel floor for level, that worked great, also put extra rollers on---also made and had them install metal plates on the bottom of the slide to ride on the rollers, working really good at this point but still notice something, like the its going out and in very good the best ever but? The amp reading after this and I took off the rail spacers and the metal supports everyone added, the Amp reading has dropped to a high of 3-4 amps sliding out that about 60 percent less than were it was, and the amps coming is 2-3 about 70 percent less, major improvement! the shop said they have never seen a Schwintek unit operate that smooth! Nice for a change---

So I get it back to my storage lot and I am there on and off doing some work on it, operating the large 5th wheel slide 14 feet and it every few times of going out , not in-only going out, still very low amperage- it stops for a second the other side continues for a few inches then it , the both sides continue out, then when it hits there limits, the other side catches up the inch or two that it lag behind, and this is always on the side by side refrigerator side, so I my next and last thing I can do is take out the 22 cubic foot frig, get it out of the 5th wheel slide all together, and I have a nice space located between the 5th frame rails and space for a 10 cubic foot frig, that would not be installed in the slide at all reducing the weight of that slide by about 200-300 pounds loaded, and relocating the cabinets to the void were the 22cu frig was.

I am at a point that I believe that 22cu side by side was to heavy for that slide setup, and being on the very end of the slide threw it out of balance which is causing the slide to walk left to right a little to go out, coming in there's no problem, so this is the final straw to try to get the slide to work as it should .

What are anyone's thoughts with this--?

Thks I will try and include some photos

The smaller factory rollors is on the left, and the ball bearing metal sleeved are on the right.

The metal shims 2 different size's to shim level , that also made more space underneath the roller for better clearance

The last picture are of the metal roller plates which all have made a big difference

There was no problems with the small increase in height of the position of the large 14 ft slide, we took a lot of measurements, a lot--no issues at all plenty of space.
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Old 08-28-2020, 04:51 PM   #48
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Heres a photo of the location of the frig:

The location where I am going to install the 10cu frig is where you see a metal sign just north of the 22cu frig, there's an opening with cabinets underneath a small counter top, and the void that will created by removing the the big frig, is where I would move the cabinets to in place of the big frig
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Old 08-29-2020, 12:18 PM   #49
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Puddlepirate,
You've been through the wringer on this one, and it looks like you and the repair techs have done everything right, subject to one important caveat.

Were the new, bigger, rollers and plates under the slide installed before or after the new Schwintek h-systems were installed? Hopefully, they were installed before the new racks and h-columns were installed. The reverse order is likely to create problems because the larger rollers and new plates will make the slide run much higher, which can cause the top of the rack to jam on the pinion spur gear assembly (bearing block). It can also cause the V-roller to slip out of the V-groove, because the V-groove is much higher and the V-roller stayed low. If the V–roller system becomes disconnected, there is nothing to hold the pinion spur gear in mesh with the rack, so the pair can slip apart and strip the rack again.

If the new h-column is installed after doing the rest of the repairs, the problems I just cited will automatically become resolved because the h-column comes with no pre-drilled holes. The installer drills new holes to attach it to the (fixed) coach wall and the h-column will become installed higher and taking away the problems I just cited.

If they installed the h-column first and then the new rollers and plates, it could be a source of your continuing problems. If that is the case, the repair person should undo all the screws holding the h-columns. This will allow the h-columns to rise to a natural level that takes all the extra pressure off the top of the rack and the removes the tendency of the v-rollers to fall out of the v-groove. Then, new holes should be drilled for the new alignment. (I've left out a few steps here that any proper technician will fill in. If you are doing the installation yourself, go back and read my earlier discussion on conducting the repair, because all the steps are there.)

If you want to check for yourself whether the h-column is too low for your racks, open the slide and run your finger along the bottom of each rack, where there is the v-groove. When you get to the wall, pull the rubber flap back to get a good look at the v-roller and the bearing block that holds the pinion spur gears. If things look like they are being stressed and chewed apart, you've still got a problem that may require another new Schwintek mechanism to be installed.

I agree that your fridge looks pretty heavy for the Schwintek system. It is interesting that Jayco is placing a little too much load on the Schwintek systems. Forest River isn't the only one with that problem.

–Gordon
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2015 Berkshire 34QS
The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
Toad: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4; Formerly: 2005 Acura EL (aka Honda Civic)
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Old 08-29-2020, 02:23 PM   #50
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The H column was mounted on the slide by another dealer, I brought to the last dealer were we pulled the slide out of the unit, then did the work on the floor and installed the new rollers, then slide was remounted or re-installed on top of the new rollers, and re located the new securing screws were installed and of course the H column was repositioned when the slide was reinstalled.

The floor was found to be out of level, the slide was square, but the floor was out of level and had a high point which I found when looking at it with a level and square.

NOTE--WHEN POSTING THIS SIGHT PUT SOME PHOTOS SIDE-WAYS--NOT ME-- LOL

First photos

Second photo, shows the center roller under the slide, hard on the floor could not even slide a metal ruler under it, the bolt was bent also. We found a high spot on the floor there, opened up the belly could not find anything bent, or cracked on the frame, but did notice that the bolts holding the floor down to the frame were all lose, not tighten down, we tighten on down over 5/16 of and inch, and snapped one tighten it down, so I went out and got some grade 9 bolts cut to fit with nylocks and rethreaded to fit, it worked.

Thrid photo show one of the large floor bolts, all replaced, also with one of the new rollers

Fourth photo shows the side by side fridge, this is what I am going to take out, and replace the void with a butcher block counter top, and relocate the or move cabinets from the spot I am going to install the smaller fridge into-

Fifth photo and sixth, is the spot that I am going to install the 10 cu ft fridge into, out of the slide, and inside of the frame work od the 5th wheel, it will fit perfect-
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Old 08-29-2020, 02:41 PM   #51
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Every one that has seen this have said the same thing--WTFO --LOL.

To much weight on one end of the slide you will always have problems, they should have at least put the fridge in the middle of the slide and not at the end--go figure right!

So I was on the fence about doing this but its coming out, I have a large main door, the math is telling me we should be able to take it out in pieces, like take the doors off, first , take all the shelves out etc, , if-if that does not work, I have no problem cutting it up to get it out, the smaller one will fit going threw the main with room to spare--I am not taking the slide off again, or blowing out a large window to get the large fridge out--
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Old 08-29-2020, 03:01 PM   #52
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Puddlepirate,

It looks like you are doing things properly.
Going to a smaller fridge seems to be a good idea, albeit a bold move.

You might be overestimating the work required to remove and install a window on your unit. If they are Hehr "flush-mount" side windows, they are pretty easy to work with. Unscrew the trim from inside. Run plastic knife or spatula around the outside to separate the two-sided tape. Then, the window comes out nicely. It is held in place 3M Very High Bond (VHB) tape, which you can get at hardware stores. (The two sided rubber tape has a red strip on one side and there are two versions: VHB and very VHB. Get the latter...)

Good luck. I'd like to know how it comes along.

–cheers, Gordon
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The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
Toad: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4; Formerly: 2005 Acura EL (aka Honda Civic)
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Old 08-29-2020, 03:06 PM   #53
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Rotating photos on this site

With the danger of hijacking this thread, let me note how to post photos with proper rotation on this site. So, I hope that nobody continues the thoughts in this comment – better to start a new thread or look for one of the threads dedicated to the problem.

The software in this site doesn't understand or respect the orientation information on raw photos from some cameras, such as iPhones. The solution is to run the photo through any editing software (eg. Photos on an Apple device) and do a minor re-crop. This writes orientation information to the picture that this site understands and respects.

–cheers, Gordon
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2015 Berkshire 34QS
The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
Toad: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4; Formerly: 2005 Acura EL (aka Honda Civic)
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