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Old 08-18-2014, 03:21 PM   #81
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Any tips on the tankless water heater

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Just wondering what a Window Shade has to do with a water heater? Question: has anyone replaced their shower control with another type? It seems to me that the factory valve cannot easily mix hot with cold and in essence I feel a major culprit with trying to get good showers. I am aware that the way the Girard works that you should not mix cold, but adjust the flow. But, probably a little mix of cold could sometimes help.

Sorry I RV I sometimes will take liberty in the Berkshire forum and get off topic. I saw Dave's post and took that liberty. I will do my best to stay on topic. To answer your question a window shade has nothing to do with a WH and I apologize.


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Old 08-29-2014, 02:28 PM   #82
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I too have had much frustration with the tankless water heater, especially in the beginning. Two things I learned the hard way is NEVER put a separate pressure regulator at the park faucet, that definitely creates wild temp fluctuation and isn't necessary due to the rigs own internal regulator. Also, if you are using a Y valve at the faucet to facilitate a second hose (for car washing maybe) remove it before showering as it will also reduce water flow. I plan to try some of the other ideas mentioned on this thread even though I have had reasonably good results mostly since I learned not to do the above.


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Old 08-29-2014, 02:51 PM   #83
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The Berkshire has an 'internal ' water pressure regulator?
I didn't know that.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:59 PM   #84
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As far as I know, there is NO internal water pressure regulator on our coaches. Southern Roamer, where did you see that there is an internal water pressure regulator on the Berkshires?
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:17 PM   #85
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New to me.


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Old 08-29-2014, 04:22 PM   #86
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Well maybe I'm wrong. I was discussing water issues with my brother-in-law who is a long time RVer and says he has one on his Tiffin Bus and stated that I surely had one on the Berk. Sorry for the confusion. I have always trusted his judgement on RVs


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Old 08-29-2014, 04:26 PM   #87
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Based on the fact there is no builtin pressure regulator should I return to using one on the campground faucet? That will return my wild hot water issue


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Old 08-29-2014, 04:37 PM   #88
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I always use one just to be on the safe side. I have an adjustable one and have it set for around 45 psi. If you set your water heater to put out hot water at a temperature where you only use hot water when you shower and not mix in any cold water, you should be OK. This is what I have done and it seems to work just fine.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:40 PM   #89
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Thanks. I'll give that a go


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Old 08-29-2014, 05:23 PM   #90
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I didn't think there was an internal regulator either, just wanted to spark some more discussion.

Just a few days ago I picked up an adjustable regulator based on what Phil and others have stated about the hot water being more controllable.

I have it set at 45 right now and definitely notice the improvement already.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:24 PM   #91
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I plan to get one soon


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Old 08-29-2014, 06:10 PM   #92
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I would not unless you have one with a gage on it. I prefer to keep it at 60# if the CG has it. At least if set at 60 I'm safe and will get all the WP I can get. I have skipped it but ran the water first to see how much pressure there is.


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Old 08-29-2014, 06:13 PM   #93
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Opps I should read the posts before responding.


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Old 08-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #94
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I was thinking of 60 - 65 psi myself. Thanks for sharing


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Old 08-29-2014, 08:52 PM   #95
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I was thinking the fixed one I had was at 40psi but based on what i read here it's 48 to 52 ...shower worked well for us with this one on. Doesn't mean I won't buy and adjustable one

Amazon.com: Valterra A01-1122VP Lead-Free High Flow Water Regulator: Automotive
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:29 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Roamer View Post
...NEVER put a separate pressure regulator at the park faucet, that definitely creates wild temp fluctuation and isn't necessary due to the rigs own internal regulator. ...
...Also, if you are using a Y valve at the faucet to facilitate a second hose (for car washing maybe) remove it before showering as it will also reduce water flow.
The wild temp fluctuation is due to the the safety cutoff switch (burner shutdown), due in to an outlet temperature above 125F, usually caused by a lower flow than 1 gpm, which is in turn caused by either an lower supply pressure than Girard recommended 45 psi, or excessive flow restrictions added to the system. Also, the burner will switch from high to low when the inlet water temp is over 70F, and back to high when the inlet temp is under 65F. (Ref: http://greenrvproducts.com/wp-conten...4-09-20102.pdf)

A Y-valve (splitter at the faucet will not cause nearly as much pressure drop as a long hose length (50', when only 25' is needed), or ells and valves that are added to the system.

As far as I know, there is no internal pressure regulator, and if you don't have one at the supply faucet (hopefully adjustable), you could encounter a higher than normal pressure that could damage the water system components. FR has tested the Berkshire water system to 95 psi with no failures (probably thanks to the PEX tubing), but doesn't advertise that, since there are third party system components (like the Girard WH) with lower operating pressure limits (the warranties of which could be violated). And yes, a supply pressure regulator will cost you some dynamic pressure loss, but is advisable. Be sure to install it upstream of any external water filter you might have (which doesn't cost you as much of a dynamic head loss as you might think).

I suggest that you go to Girard's website and read about the principal of operation. The bottom line is: you need more than 45 psi to make it work right (43 psi, in my experience); you need to set the burner control to "Low" in the summer (when inlet water temperatures are high, due to the hose lying in the sun - water comes out of the ground at the same temperature year-round; and you can set the burner temperature to "Auto" when the ambient temps are cold (fall mornings, etc.).

Finally, since the pressure regulator gauge reads the regulator outlet static pressure (i.e. no-flow condition), you need to check the supply pressure with a separate gauge. I invariably have problems below 43 psi, and no problems higher than 50 psi static supply pressure. I have my supply regulator set at 52 psi static pressure.
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:44 PM   #97
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Southern Roamer don't be confused by the reference to a low switch or an auto switch. Those are from a Gen 1 Water heater and you most likely have a Gen 2. You will have a dial to control the BYU output for the heater.


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Old 08-30-2014, 08:34 PM   #98
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Thanks for all the advice. I will check to see what type switch I have and definitely purchase an adjustable pressure regulator.


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