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Old 05-16-2015, 09:49 PM   #1
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Battery Power

I'm confused as I had my Berk sit for 2 weeks not plugged in. I used the switch by the door and put it in store however now the coach has no lights or etc. I found that the leveling jacks are tied to these batteries as I couldn't lift the jacks, also the generator is dead and won't start?

I plugged into my house just 120v and still can't get anything to come on? Will it eventually charge the batteries and everything will come back?
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Old 05-16-2015, 10:32 PM   #2
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The 110v will charge the coach batteries through the converter. If you want to bring them up faster I suggest starting the engine (uses the chassis battery). The engine will top off the chassis battery then switch over and charge the coach batteries. The gen won't start because it uses the coach batteries for the starter, ignition and control circuit, once the batteries are charged then the the gen should be ok. Another option to get them up faster is to use a portable battery charger which I think will charge faster than the berk's converter.
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:15 PM   #3
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next time you store it not plugged in, use the battery disconnect in the battery bays.
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:55 PM   #4
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So my problem continues, no power in coach at all. No jacks, lights or slide out power. I tested each battery and they seem to be charged, 6.7 volts per. I found a lead to my inverted that I tested at just over 13. Is this an inverter problem? Way over my head and we are 4 days away from our first trip of the year! 😓
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:44 PM   #5
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This has happened to me twice in the past year.

For the immediate problem you have to get the motor started. Will it start?

The alternate engine start feature uses the house batteries to assist the chassis batteries if necessary.

The same way that it will help the engine start it will also help the generator to start.

Run the main engine for 30+ minutes

This should give you enough charge the enough to get your generator started to then be able to raise the jacks.

I have had battery problems and also had a part recall that had to be installed. You need to contact your FR factory rep to get it to your service center if the problem persists.

Good luck.


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Old 05-17-2015, 10:24 PM   #6
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The motor starts with no problems and then at some point I get coach lighting, no jacks. I then tried to start generator and it kills the coach power dead.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:55 PM   #7
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How long did you leave the motor on for?

Did you try starting the generator from the alt eng start?


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Old 05-17-2015, 11:10 PM   #8
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I think what greg is referring to on the alt engine start may actually be called the aux button on the console. Start the engine, hold the aux button and try to start the generator.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:41 PM   #9
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The function is also called low battery start. I'm not sure what the actual label will be on the toggle button.


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Old 05-18-2015, 06:55 AM   #10
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Saga continues: I got the generator going but as some as I release the aux start switch it dies. I'm still wondering if my batteries are shot but don't have solid proof. Thx everyone!
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:59 AM   #11
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Just a thought but I have seen the 50 AMP fuse blow it is an in-line fuse located in the battery compartment about an inch long mounted on the back wall.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:41 AM   #12
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Sounds like one or both of your coach batteries has failed probably a dead cell or battery internally shorted out. In this scenario you can still get good voltage readings from the batteries (as you are) but when you place a load on them they fail to provide the current needed. Have your batteries load and short tested or just pull them out stick a 12 volt in there place to confirm if it corrects the problem, if you can drive the camper to a auto parts store and have them test them for you is another option. Another possibility is a loose connection in the area of the batteries which can also act the same way (good readings until you put a load on them).
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:14 AM   #13
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I just had an issue with mine as well. I left the inverter on, even though the batteries were switched off. I didn't think that the inverter would work when the battery disconnect switches were off, so I never thought about switching it off. Thankfully I have battery tenders on all of my batteries, but it still took them two days to recharge. If your batteries were discharged below a certain threshold, they may be ruined. I did have luck on one of the batteries in a car that I store that would not hold a charge and that I was going to replace, but figured I'd just give it a try with my Schumacher advanced battery charger. It has a desulfation mode that may bring your batteries back to life. If the batteries are old, you may need to replace.

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:06 AM   #14
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ndfellow, this now sounds exactly like the problem I had last year. I couldn't keep the generator going either. The fix was to install a FR retro kit and possibly replace the 150amp fuse in the inverter compartment. You need to contact your factory service rep for more details.

Did you try to activate the jack/leveling system while you had the generator going with the AUX start button?





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Old 05-18-2015, 11:23 AM   #15
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This was the fuse I had mentioned earlier. I carry one with me as I had an issue somewhat similar to this on my previous mh.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neanderthal View Post
This was the fuse I had mentioned earlier. I carry one with me as I had an issue somewhat similar to this on my previous mh.

Big Dave where did u buy your replacement fuse.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #17
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I bought it at Total it was about $6.00 from what I recall.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:26 PM   #18
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ndfellow
I presume you placed the Battery Disconnect switch at the door to USE. As dan-nickie stated, next time use the disconnects in the battery compartment. With the doorway switch to STORE, the cabin still has items that draw on the battery.

Everything in your cabin (and awnings too) use 12VDC from the cabin batteries, except for items plugged into AC outlets. Running the generator or connecting to a shore line will charge the batteries, but that can take some time (like 24 hrs). Just because the battery shows that it has a voltage, doesn't mean it has any guts to drive out many amps. Your converter has a charge display, you need to get it at least to the Absorb stage (Float is better).

Suggest that you check the specific gravity of each battery cell. You can buy the tester at an automotive store (not very expensive).
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:32 PM   #19
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Ok guys I love my go pro. I think I make have found the fuse you talked about that could be bad but am waiting your confirmation. I believe now my battery testing is 6v or 12v. Hoping you can stick with me on this one! Watch link below for my details.

https://youtu.be/TMlVrbNkNWs (no judging) 😀
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:45 AM   #20
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From your video, I could not tell where you were attaching both of the tester's leads. You probably were across an individual 6VDC battery where you got a low light and other times across two 6VDC batteries in series, where you had gotten a brighter light. The MH has two 6VDC batteries in series (+ connected to -) done twice, Then the two series pairs are connected together (+ to + and - to -). This forms two 12 volt batteries in parallel.

The tester using a light is okay to tell you that you have something, but a digital voltmeter (DVM) will tell you down to the one-thousandth of a volt. The DVM can give you and idea of the state of charge of batteries. I believe that across a series pair; 12.75 volts is 100% charged, while at around 12.20 volts, they are 50% charged. These readings are without while the batteries are not being charged. When charging, you will get voltages like 13.7 volts or higher.

If your MH has the battery idiot lights, do not rely on them and you never want your batteries down to 10 or even 11 volts. They will not last too long that way.
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