Bedroom Slide Motor

[Oscarvan]

Lost one tooth on one of the gears inside the gear box for the bedroom slide. doink-doink-doink It still works but it's only a matter of time. Klauber Machine and Gear is the manufacturer. Part number K01348F500 Proprietary, I hate that word, for Equalizer systems. Yes, those people. $600 plus..... Part number search yields nothing.

Anyone know another source for these?

[dave-g]

Some day i would love to see all slides hydraulic do we don't have to deal with these motors and cables.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by dave-g

Some day i would love to see all slides hydraulic do we don't have to deal with these motors and cables.

Try Boston Gear! Youroo!!

[Micman]

[Oscarvan]

Wrong company wrong gear.

This is the one I need, and it's Equalizer systems. The two arrows are pointing at two gears which are attached, as in one piece. The smaller gear has the tooth missing.

[Bama Rambler]

You're not likely to find the internal gearing anywhere. You may get lucky and find a gearbox at an RV salvage yard. I'd call a few and see if they have any.

Amazon and ebay have plenty of Lippert 18:1 replacement gears, but I can't find one like you show.

[Oscarvan]

No I know I'm not going to find it and that's what's frustrating me. The manufacturer has those gears but Equalizer won't stock/supply it. It's a known point of failure and they get you for $680 every time it happens. I find this unethical.

[Lincman983]

You could try Forest River parts dept. they might have just the gear box or a the gear itself. 574-522-1747

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by Lincman983

You could try Forest River parts dept. they might have just the gear box or a the gear itself. 574-522-1747

Tried that.

[caflorin]

Not sure if there is better documentation on the prints, but maybe Randy or Mitch could help you out. Looks like FR references the system as their part number 7343. See attached

[Trappfarmer]

Any mechanical engineers out there? This looks like a redesign job. Could be fixed with a clutch that would slip before letting the gear tooth break. An electrical engineer would approach this problem by designing a circuit that would be placed between the voltage source and the motor and would detect an overcurrent, kill the motor and save the gear tooth. My choice would be the current limiter.
First we need to know the nominal current in both a directions of travel.
A sheer pin on the final gear might also work but requires further investigation on how much torque is causing tooth failure.

[Mmnsc]

Originally Posted by Oscarvan

Wrong company wrong gear.



This is the one I need, and it's Equalizer systems. The two arrows are pointing at two gears which are attached, as in one piece. The smaller gear has the tooth missing.

Have you tried Boston Gear? They have a wide selection of gears and power drives. Bostongear. Com
Just a thought.

[SPCF]

Anyone been able to source the gears for this box? It looks like this to be a common issue on that specific gear. FR want some $950.00 for this.... WHAT A RIPOFF.

[Rainmanpsu90]

Oscarvan,
I have the same issue on a 2019 Berkshire 39A bedroom slide. How were you able to access the motor/gearbox? My slide is in and I am unable to reach the motor to manually drive the slide out. Any help would be appreciated.

[caflorin]

The slide in makes it tough, but not impossible. I dropped the motor gear assemble by removing the 4 bolts (see red arrows) that hold it in place. Once that assembly is taken out of mesh with the toothed rail, the slide can be pushed out manually. I had to remove the panels that support the mattress to reach the bolts.

[SPCF]

That is how one will remove and replace the motor and gear.
The question is how to access them to drop the gearbox from the slide gear.
You CAN NOT reach the bolts to loose them as the bottom of the slide is on top of the mechanism an not removable without moving the slide back out. Yes you can cut the bed frame into pieces to put a hand and a tool and reach them bolts.
I used a long 2x4 as a leverage achored on the floor against the opposing slide and several smaller pieces against the center slide rail to force push the slide back out one inch at a time. Each piece a inch or 2 longer.
I was expecting to bust break the gear but it spinned very slow enough back out to reach the bolts to loose them as in the picture.
I hope this is descriptive enough to get the job done.
If not so, let me know, I'll see if I can take a picture of the procedure I used.
Good luck.

[caflorin]

No need to bust...cut...or anything destructive. On mine, I was able to lift the mattress. Underneath there were panels screwed down. I removed those horizontal panels and was able to reach the assembly. Send pics, and I will do the same tomorrow.

[Rainmanpsu90]

Caflorin, I will send some pics in a moment to show you what I see, but the horizontal piece that is the back 1/3 of the bed frame and supports the slide out channel is what I think you are talking about. The walls of the slideout sit on top of this horizontal piece, so I am unable to remove this piece. Is that the piece you are talking about?

[Lincman983]

I would check the 30A mini breaker in the back by the inverter; if that checks out then you would have to check the motor itself. Here is how to access the bed slide motor; you can access the bed slide motor by lifting the bed, under there will be MDF boards that are screwed down. Remove the screws and pull the board up the motor should be visible once those boards are removed.

[caflorin]

I think so. I just removed the screws on the outer edgea of the plywood (you can zoom in to see them). Lift at the end closest to the foot of the bed, and the board slides out. Nothing needs to be done with the lifting mechanism.