Berkshire 390 Water Pump Prime Loss

[Hallen01]

Symtoms
Purge system with city water hookup, disconnect hose, all the water runs out of lines and pump doesn't pump, and won't shut off

Possible analysis (going to try this tomorrow):
Before disconnecting city water (hose) while system is purged of air, shut off each and every one of individual system manifold valves and turn pump on very shortly after disconnecting hose.

That the water pump won't turn off and the water flow on tank supply is poor indicates a poor prime.

Any solutions/explanations by those with experience here?

[Phil57]

Sorry i'm not sure what you are saying. Is you water tank full and the water pump just runs with out building up pressure in the system? What lines does the water run out of? Is this something that started after winterizing? If so is your filter in place and is the filter clear plastic full of water? Are the water drain valves shut off?The ones on ether side of the compartment?

[Dave_Monica]

Check to see if you have a separate valved line 'T'ed into the supply line from the tank to enable you to draw antifreeze into the pump to winterize the system. If the valve on that line is open, it would cause the problem you describe.

Dave

[Phil57]

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

Check to see if you have a separate valved line 'T'ed into the supply line from the tank to enable you to draw antifreeze into the pump to winterize the system. If the valve on that line is open, it would cause the problem you describe.

Dave

That is in the driver side compartment with no handles. It opens from the bottom you will see pins to pull out.

[Hallen01]

What lines does the water run out of? NONE
Is this something that started after winterizing?YES; DELIVERED WITH ANTIFREEZE
If so is your filter in place and is the filter clear plastic full of water?YES
Are the water drain valves shut off?YES
The ones on ether side of the compartment?YES


THANKS! Per Dave and Monica's reply, I think it could very well be the antifreeze addition valve left open.

Per Phil's advice, I'll check the water compartment immediately (r/side, two cotter pins - not had it open yet - took delivery a month ago, but involved in other setup tasks and unified tow brake install).

I'll let you know how I made out.

[TURBS]

Why are you using your pump with city water hookup?

You only need your water pump when drawing water out of your fresh water tank.

Your city water connection does not fill your fresh water tank either.

Turbs

[Phil57]

I don't mean to be a SA but you should have your hose from your water source going to the outlet "city water". The pressure from the water source wether well or city supplied water tower is your pressure source.
Your water pump should be of and you should have a water pressure regulator hooked into the hose. If you are running the tank you fill the tank. Unhook the hose and after making sure all the drains are closed turn in the pump in the MH. If you have low pressure check the screens at the faucet as the glob up with new construction.

[Hallen01]

THANKS AGAIN, EVERYONE! The antifreeze valve is now closed, and everything works great when on pump mode from FW tank

BTW, the warranty dept replied as to recommended max pressure regulator setting for city water supply (third party regulator on the end of my city water hookup hose) when not on FW tank/pump mode. They test the plumbing system and installed components at 80 psig water pressure, but cautioned that there are third party components (e.g. tankless water heater) that although having survived that test, may not be rated or warrantied for much more than 45 - 50 psi. I get pretty good flow in city water mode at an inlet pressure of 47 psig, so I'll just leave it there.