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Old 07-22-2015, 12:52 PM   #1
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Broken Exhaust Brake Switch Cover

My exhaust brake switch gets a fair amount of use, once at the end of each “coast-down”, and the switch cover – not the electrical switch underneath – finally broke and fell off (see attached photos). I was able to keep it in my cup holder, and reinsert when I needed it for the ride home (not a recommended as a routine practice).

After chasing my tail with the Freightliner Daimler website, I got a call back from Barry, a maintenance tech with FCCC in Gaffney, and learned that the coach builder adds this, not the FCCC manufacturing plant. I then sent the attached photos to Mitch in the FR Diesel Division Warranty Department, who gave me the part number and instructed me to place the order with Isaac in the Parts Department. The shipping costs about twice that of the part, so I ordered a second as a spare (see “not recommended practice”, above).

If your switch cover breaks – or better yet, before it breaks - call Isaac at FR Diesel Division, Parts Dept, and order Part No. 40E05751A Exhaust Brake Switch Cover, $8.20@ +S/H, which is $15.00 UPS Ground to South Jersey. Be sure and have your Serial No (last six of your VIN), and - if you can find it on an old parts invoice - your Unit Production No (a.k.a. Stock No).
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:13 PM   #2
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I am just curious how did u break it in the first place.


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Old 07-22-2015, 02:34 PM   #3
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Why are you turning it off and on? Mine stays on 99% of the time.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:50 PM   #4
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I never turn mine off even in town since engine brake is mufflered.


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Old 07-22-2015, 03:40 PM   #5
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When we werecst Camp Freightliner they told us to keep it on all the time except in wet/icy conditions. I leave mine on almost all the time


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Old 07-22-2015, 04:53 PM   #6
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Leave mine on all the time also...


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Old 07-22-2015, 04:54 PM   #7
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Athompson@forestriverinc.com. The part costs like $5.00 but at the end of shipping it jumps to $17.00 or so. He'll send it right out. It just snaps on.
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:13 PM   #8
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Mine came off like that too. I was going to put a bit of superglue around the nipple on the back of the switch to secure it back in place.

I don't always want to brake when I'm coasting. So I switch mine on and off quite a bit as well. Does everyone know the brake lights come on when the engine brake in active.


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Old 07-22-2015, 05:17 PM   #9
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Mine came off like that too. I was going to put a bit of superglue around the nipple on the back of the switch to secure it back in place.

I don't always want to brake when I'm coasting. So I switch mine on and off quite a bit as well. Does everyone know the brake lights come on when the engine brake in active.


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Yes brake lights come on when engine brake engages.


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Old 07-22-2015, 05:25 PM   #10
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It also activates my auxiliary braking for the toad on my setup.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:14 PM   #11
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Tater you can coast without taking the switch off, just don't come off the accelerator pedal all the way. This way the exhaust brake will not engage.

Like the others, the only time I switch mine off is when it's wet or raining.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:31 PM   #12
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Tater you can coast without taking the switch off, just don't come off the accelerator pedal all the way. This way the exhaust brake will not engage.

Like the others, the only time I switch mine off is when it's wet or raining.

Yea I knew that. Call me lazy - I like taking my foot off the gas. 😊


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Old 07-22-2015, 07:12 PM   #13
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Gorilla Glue....


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Old 07-23-2015, 09:16 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 15berkxl View Post
I am just curious how did u break it in the first place.


Wayne
I didn't. It just fell off in my hand. The little plastic finger(s) on the rear broke, possible from normal use, but they are terribly thin.

Regarding someone else's comment about gorilla glue - yes that will work, but you're stuck with that switch cover forever, unless you replace the entire electrical switch in the panel (more $$$, and more work).

Having just upgraded my Girard original with the 1M model, I feel I spend far to much time fixing this thing.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:57 PM   #15
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By leaving your exhaust break switch on, wouldn't that be hard on your transmission because of all the down shifting I experience? I too try to not let off the gas all the way.

Thanks everyone again for all the great tips I keep picking up!
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:14 PM   #16
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Judicious Exhaust Brake Use

Maybe this would be a good place to talk about how I get 11. 2 mpg on a leg, and 10.2 mpg fill up to fill up (fill to overflow).

I coast down, and then when at "the right distance" from the exit, hit the exhaust brake. Sometimes I can get onto the exit ramp without using the service brake, and always, without holding up traffic.

Anything you do to save brakes will save gas. It's called energy management. Don't put the energy into kinetic energy increase, and you won't have to take it out again by heating or wearing the brakes.

P.S: I find that the on-board computer for fuel flow is extremely accurate (like most fuel metering systems). The "Y" tube (that connects the two fill points to the tank seems to hold about 2 -3 gallons.

Now if I could just get my wife to do this with her SUV; she goes right from the accelerator to the brake.
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:40 PM   #17
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Broken Exhaust Brake Switch Cover

Hallen01, just email Andy at FR and have him send you a new cover. Don't need to jerry rig something that inexpensive.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Paulie Boy View Post
Hallen01, just email Andy at FR and have him send you a new cover. Don't need to jerry rig something that inexpensive.

+1! If it does start to slip towards the end of bringing in the slide push the button once and again and again until the slide is fully in. Don't hold the button and let it jump the gears.

I hope that makes sense.


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Old 07-24-2015, 12:28 PM   #19
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Hallen01, just email Andy at FR and have him send you a new cover. Don't need to jerry rig something that inexpensive.


Don't know where you got the idea I jury-rigged it. I had to get myself home , so I remounted it every time I needed it until I got home and could order a new one.

Otherwise, I didn't jury-rig anything - it broke, and I replaced it. Also, as I stated, I started with the warranty department (Mitch, who works with Randy), who helped me with the part number, and advised me to buy a replacement from their parts dept.

I think the switch cover manufacturer could maybe make a more robust switch cover, with respect to the little retaining latches on the back. I didn't use excessive force in operating the switch at any point, but I use the heck out of it, so after two-and-a-half years, I regarded its failure as wear and tear, not a warranty item, and I didn't expect free replacement.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:58 PM   #20
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Broken Exhaust Brake Switch Cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallen01 View Post
Don't know where you got the idea I jury-rigged it. I had to get myself home , so I remounted it every time I needed it until I got home and could order a new one.

Otherwise, I didn't jury-rig anything - it broke, and I replaced it. Also, as I stated, I started with the warranty department (Mitch, who works with Randy), who helped me with the part number, and advised me to buy a replacement from their parts dept.

I think the switch cover manufacturer could maybe make a more robust switch cover, with respect to the little retaining latches on the back. I didn't use excessive force in operating the switch at any point, but I use the heck out of it, so after two-and-a-half years, I regarded its failure as wear and tear, not a warranty item, and I didn't expect free replacement.

Lighten up! My comment was in response to the Gorilla Glue comment.
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