Can I lower / dump airbags manually?

[tradventures]

Just wondering a correct way to dump air suspension manually? I think one can lower jacks halfway, which dumps air suspension then raise them back up?

I think this happened by accident; one time I wanted to lower my jacks to tilt my rig while dumping as it was on uneven ground leaning away from outlets, so I tilted the rig the other way to get all the waste out. When I took off I noticed, the rig was riding rough re-engaged my jacks full procedure and air suspension filled all was good so think when I was messing around did it by accident not intentional.

Why would I want to do this? I wonder if a garage with 12 ft. door coach would fit, specifications are 12' 8" clearance for the coach, I am sure lowering air suspension will give 4" and not sure how accurate Berkshire numbers are and if they give any leeway?

Has anyone tried to get a Berkshire (mine is a 2020 39A) in a 12' clearance garage?

Thanks for any feedback!

[Igave]

I have an older coach than you, a 2016 xl 40a. It’s 12’6” to the top of the low profile ac unit housing. Even lowered I wouldn’t try the 12’ with mine as just too much margin for error for me. I have a 14’ door that translates to just about 13’ clearance with the door open. As to the manual dump, I’ve never tried it but I’m sure you’ll hear from folks on here who do it to manually level.

[edgewant]

On my 2013 390RB I can hit the auto-level button which dumps the air then immediately power off the equalizer key pad.

This dumps the air with minimal movement of the jacks.

[Trappfarmer]

Hitting the auto level and then powering down works on our 2020 40E as well.
You can let the air out of the tires for a couple of inches.
I get your problem, Not easy to make the door open higher. We’re in the process of building a barn. It will have 14 foot doors.

[tradventures]

Originally Posted by Trappfarmer

Hitting the auto level and then powering down works on our 2020 40E as well.
You can let the air out of the tires for a couple of inches.
I get your problem, Not easy to make the door open higher. We’re in the process of building a barn. It will have 14 foot doors.

Thanks - It's a commercial warehouse storage I have access to if I could get it to fit. The opening, height cannot be retrofitted probably will be a missed opportunity but just going to see when I have my coach in the area. Where I live it would cost $1m to build a barn as I live in Los Angeles and a lot is just that much.

[FlaNative]

tradventures:
We live in Florida, so the expense to building a 'barn' for the rv is substantially lower than the elevated prices in California.
We contracted and installed a 20'x42' steel building including a solid concrete slab (building built to withstand a 140mph hurricane force wind per building codes), complete with 125 amp electric service with a 50 amp outlet for our rig, plus a new vinyl fence for our property for just under $29K.

In retrospect I wish we had built it for a 22'x42' building for the additional space, but we're very happy with the results.

We had the contractor build it with a 14'x 12' door, off center (14' high by 12' wide), and our 35' 5er fits well within the building with height to spare, and 3.5' at each end, front to back clearance: easy to back in and level up. With the slides out, we have 1 ft. on the driver side and 6' on the curb side.
Good luck!

[rickkey2]

Sounds like it would work if needed clearance was accomplished. Now just make sure that you do the same process when you want to pull out. When you start up the unit will build air and lift coach to travel position and if you don't dump the airbags it will all be for nothing as your A/C and other items on the roof will be on the garage floor

[zb39]

I had a 60 x 80 x 16 building put up with electric and a 40 x 60 concrete pad outside as well. 3 doors on it 12 wide and 15 tall. Holds all the toys.

[Trappfarmer]

ZB39,
How much? We’re getting ready to build.

[zb39]

100K

[tradventures]

Originally Posted by Jimmy James

tradventures:
We live in Florida, so the expense to building a 'barn' for the rv is substantially lower than the elevated prices in California.
We contracted and installed a 20'x42' steel building including a solid concrete slab (building built to withstand a 140mph hurricane force wind per building codes), complete with 125 amp electric service with a 50 amp outlet for our rig, plus a new vinyl fence for our property for just under $29K.

In retrospect I wish we had built it for a 22'x42' building for the additional space, but we're very happy with the results.

We had the contractor build it with a 14'x 12' door, off center (14' high by 12' wide), and our 35' 5er fits well within the building with height to spare, and 3.5' at each end, front to back clearance: easy to back in and level up. With the slides out, we have 1 ft. on the driver side and 6' on the curb side.
Good luck!

Wow...that's awesome seems like a really good build price too. Someday hopefully will be able to leave Cali but stuck for now.

[tradventures]

Originally Posted by rickkey2

Sounds like it would work if needed clearance was accomplished. Now just make sure that you do the same process when you want to pull out. When you start up the unit will build air and lift coach to travel position and if you don't dump the airbags it will all be for nothing as your A/C and other items on the roof will be on the garage floor

Vey good point duly noted, thanks!