Concrete pad for my Berk

[KennyGolub]

Well, my 5th wheel pad doesn't appear to be strong enough for the Berkshire. I'm seeing cracks and separation after only 6 months of parking on it.

So, I don't see a problem using it thru next winter, by which time it will probably be a lot worse.

For those of you who put in a pad for the weight of a MH, how thick did you get it poured ?

It's going to cost me a bundle to remove the current pad once it starts to break up bad, so I don't know if I should consider an asphalt pad.

Any thoughts or suggestions ?

Thanks,
Ken

[geotex1]

Sounds like your concrete pad has a poor foundation, and a bituminous pad is no better than it's foundation either... A standard driveway mix (3,500psi concrete) with welded wire fabric is fine for the load of a MH, BUT that's when constructed over a proper subgrade - think compacted crushed stone. In these parts, 6" of compacted dense graded aggregate and 4" driveway mix will give you excellent service. Otherwise, what you are trying to achieve is essentially a structural slab to "float" on a poor foundation so you'll be moving up to 4,000psi and a rebar mat. Thickness of slab depends on how bad the subgrade is, and reinforcement needed will depend on spans of slab.

[Paulie Boy]

My first question is where is your pad located? Thickened slabs poured monolithic with post cured expansion joints cut in might be what is needed or recommended. WWF mats with #4 rebar in the thickened locations.

[I-RV]

X2 on the foundation; the integrity will be greatly dependent upon it. For the foundation, use crushed stone and not gravel or river stone. The stone needs to have jagged edges. Don't use the pretty landscaping stone; use the crushed stone with stone dust mixed in. The next important thing is compacting the stone. A great tool for compacting is the motorhome. I only have crushed stone and it is rock solid.

There is something to be said about a stone pad; it doesn't crack, it is porous and oil leaks does not spoil the look like on concrete.

[KennyGolub]

Originally Posted by I-RV

X2 on the foundation; the integrity will be greatly dependent upon it. For the foundation, use crushed stone and not gravel or river stone. The stone needs to have jagged edges. Don't use the pretty landscaping stone; use the crushed stone with stone dust mixed in. The next important thing is compacting the stone. A great tool for compacting is the motorhome. I only have crushed stone and it is rock solid.

There is something to be said about a stone pad; it doesn't crack, it is porous and oil leaks does not spoil the look like on concrete.

I am liking the sound of this. The crushed stone has to cost a lot less than concrete. So I can just have them break up what's left and haul it out to be replaced by crushed stone ?

Thanks to all who replied !!!

Ken

[Paulie Boy]

Be sure to have all of the substrates compacted.

[outloud]

Asphalt driveway,but it was only 3 inches thick had to take it out.then I put in concrete put 6 inch deep where the coach would sit and 4 inches for the rest, I used rebar and add fiberglass all to 5000 psi. It's been 3 yrs and still looking good!


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[outloud]

Crushed rock is fine I used it for awhile but when it rains the dust that is in the stone bleeds rad or the color of the stone it goes all over the place messy. Concrete does cost more but it is well worth it in the long run.


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[lsauer1]

We put in a regular concrete driveway pad for our 38' Forest River Reflection, and it is holding up fine.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by KennyGolub

I am liking the sound of this. The crushed stone has to cost a lot less than concrete. So I can just have them break up what's left and haul it out to be replaced by crushed stone ?

Thanks to all who replied !!!

Ken

Why not just bust it up and then compact it where it is and pour over it?

[Witch Doctor]

If the sub base the dirt is not compacted, Makes no difference in the pour. You need the ground compacted to speck, then the rock sub base compacted to speck, then you need rebar and 4" of concrete poured with expansion joints. Most people forget about the foundation or dirt it's being poured on.

[15berkxl]

Except for where the rear tires are that concrete is the usual 4 inch thick. Where the rear tires are that is 6 inches thick steel reinforced with I believe 3000 psi highway grade concrete.

[wana65stang]

Has anyone used reclaimed asphalt as a parking pad?

[I-RV]

Many good suggestions for a concrete pad. I'd like to add that if the ground is greatly pitched, it might be a good time to get it level as possible (with slight pitch for water run-off). Also, do not park on concrete for a long time with the tires touching the concrete. Put an impervious material, like a vinyl floor tile between the concrete and tires.

[Paulie Boy]

Drainage pitch for the slab should be 1/4" per foot.

[KennyGolub]

Thanks to all for the responses. As an FYI..the pad was supposed to be 4 inches when installed. It does have a slant for water runoff. And I do keep the tires off the pavement. I think I am a victim of a poor install.

Thanks again to all.

Ken

[I-RV]

Originally Posted by Paulie Boy

Drainage pitch for the slab should be 1/4" per foot.

1/4" per foot might be okay for sewer drains. I used it for my concrete patio and is the worst thing I could have done (2.5" over 10ft is way too much). A minimal slope is all that is necessary since even the flatness finishes have dips that you want the slope to drain these pools. Nobody wants puddles!

For a 40 ft MH will have about 30' between front and rear tires. Using 1/4" per foot will mean 7.5" difference between front and rear. I have seen not so nice campgrounds with flatter camp sites that that. I would not want to spend all that money for a concrete pad and end up with a ski slope.

Might be a good idea to pitch downward from the center both ways; either lengthwise or side to side (like some roadways, with a crown in the center)

[Paulie Boy]

1/4" per foot is a construction standard for exterior slab drainage slope. With depressions in the slab, and I'd like to see a slab without any, you want them to drain and not pond. My 390BH-60 has a 252" or 21' wheelbase. Lengthwise that would be a 5.25" slope. But considering a width of approximately 10" the side slope would be 2.25", negligible at best. Pitching from the center would be a great idea if you could find a local contractor that could produce enough talent to accomplish it.

JMO

[I-RV]

Paulie; with a 10ft width and 5ft from center would only be 1.25" if sloped from center, side to side. I am not a mason, but it doesn't seem that hard to do a crowned pad. Just need a spine down the center of staked furring strip (to allow the steel mesh to traverse underneath), pour, bull float, walk down the center removing the center spine and float a nice rounded crest. IMHO (LOL)

[Paulie Boy]

Sounds easy. Now find somebody to pull it off. If you're in cold country how deep is the frost line? Are you in Texas with clay that swells in rain and shrinks in dry weather. Are you in sandy soil that drains and erodes rapidly? And don't forget the Tampa-Orlando region with sink holes. There are so many variables and every Tom, Dick and Harry contractors have the answer. Do your research thoroughly and only have it done once.