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Old 05-08-2014, 10:23 PM   #21
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Bryce, you must mean 50 to 60 ABOVE ambient temp or you have one hell of a cooler installed to be 50 below ambient........
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:28 PM   #22
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Bryce, you must mean 50 to 60 ABOVE ambient temp or you have one hell of a cooler installed to be 50 below ambient........
I keep it frozen in a block of dry ice

Oops... ya.. 50-60 above!
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:31 PM   #23
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I don't think i have ever seen it at the pump - but when travelling cross country I have plotted the fuel locations based on brand to keep a uniform rated fuel - CO-OP fuel when going across western Canada etc.
Fuel products, lubricants, antifreeze, tractor lubricants - RED RIVER CO-OP
or
Husky Energy - Canada
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:38 PM   #24
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Awsome link!!
And that just backs up what I've been told on using GM, OE filters. Thats why I use 'em.

Done hijakin'

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Old 05-09-2014, 05:21 AM   #25
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I run Amsoil synthetics in my 7.3 (actually in all my vehicles and toys). I use the 25000 mile extended life and usually change it every year and a half or so. Also use Amsoil in the tranny too. My temps run 10+ degrees cooler in both engine and trans.
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:43 AM   #26
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When leaving the motor home set for a moderate or long time, keep the fuel tank full to keep algae away. For long term storage, add Sta-Bil for diesels to the fuel. It is a good idea to carry fuel filters.
You never know when you might get a dirty load of fuel and have problems. If on the road when a change is necessary and you do not want to make the change yourself, having the filter will greatly assist your roadside service and service time.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:00 AM   #27
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I run Amsoil synthetics in my 7.3 (actually in all my vehicles and toys). I use the 25000 mile extended life and usually change it every year and a half or so. Also use Amsoil in the tranny too. My temps run 10+ degrees cooler in both engine and trans.
X2...OP definetly use synthetics all around and fuel stabilizer, keep fuel filters clean and changed regularly and the cummins will run like a champ



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Old 05-09-2014, 07:05 AM   #28
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My Dmax has 300,000 miles on it.
1. I do not run K&N style airfilters on my diesel. Gassers yes. Use OEM style paper filters and change them often (5k miles).
2. Change fuel filters every 5k miles.
3. (1) qt 2 stroke oil with every tank of fuel. No other additives.
4. Change engine oil & filter every 10k.
5. Service the Allison every 25k.

I do run a tuner, and abuse my truck. It is a 7,000 hot rod and I drive it as such. Having said that, I spend a lot of time crawling over and under it taking care of anything that looks suspect. I take care of it, it takes care of me.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:05 AM   #29
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Brother Les... Did the 6.0 cooler go in as part of the BTS transmission install or did you do that separately?

I have the Ford HD4R100 reman and they put in the 13 row v10 cooler when they installed it. I put the 6.0 26 row in about a month ago. My initial impression was sort of "meh" but I haven't towed with it much distance yet (not enough to get up to operation temps). I guess since I wasn't trying to fix a cooling issue and I had a better than stock 9row cooler, I won't realize as much benefit as some that had junked up 9row coolers. My trans temp run 50-60 above ambient (originally type below ambient), but ran 60-70 prior to the 26row cooler when unloaded.
You will be very glad that you put in the 6.0 trans cooler. As you know, the 7.3 trans cooler sits low in the front under the radiator and only has air flow when the truck in moving. The transmission on the 7.3s have always been the weak link of the drive train and that was because of the lack of cooling per size and location of the trans cooler. My old transmission also Had the mechanical diode that ended up causing slippage (two strikes against Fords "Better Ideas" ). Ford knew that they had a problem, but it was up to the owners to fix it. The 6.0 trans cooler was the perfect fix to get the temps down, sitting in aliegnment with the radiator for the fan to pull air through it at all times. As for the 6.0 trans cooler. BTS installed it with out me asking or telling them to (cost 0 ). I talked to them about the trans temps and putting in a temp gauge. "Brian" (of BTS) said that I would not need to really worry about the temp with the 6.0 and put the gauge in when I wanted.

https://b7445ba3-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=0


https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...-350-superduty
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:32 AM   #30
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Everyone is talking about the engine. Don't forget to grease the front end, drive shaft, and slack adjusters. Should be done every 15000 miles when oil is done. Speaking of oil I have met many owners that say their manual says every 15000 miles. As they drive only 2000 or 3000 a year some have gone 5 years without an oil change. I change at the end of every season no matter how little I have driven. I do the generator at the same time. As said before oil is cheep compared to an engine.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #31
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Everyone is talking about the engine. Don't forget to grease the front end, drive shaft, and slack adjusters. Should be done every 15000 miles when oil is done. Speaking of oil I have met many owners that say their manual says every 15000 miles. As they drive only 2000 or 3000 a year some have gone 5 years without an oil change. I change at the end of every season no matter how little I have driven. I do the generator at the same time. As said before oil is cheep compared to an engine.

Just returned from FL school in Gaffney, and one of the things that was stressed about oil changes was that it must be changed once a year, regardless of whether you've travelled 15k miles or not.

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Old 05-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #32
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This months Trailer Life has an article on K & N and warranty implications.. RV.Net often has discussions about K & N. and pictures of problems after the filter. I wouldn't use them. I believe the manufacturers of my vehicle knows what's best,
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:01 PM   #33
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Sorry, I thought I was?

-If you have air brakes and or air ride, drain the tanks frequently (everyday recomended, but you might not move everyday)
- don't forget to thump or check your inside duals
-you might want to plug in coolant heater when it gets below 32 or what ever temp is recomended for your unit.

-Have fun!!!

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When I drove semi we were taught to drain the tanks daily. I NEVER had moisture come out. My FL book that came with the coach, says every 6 months is fine.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:07 PM   #34
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I run Amsoil synthetics in my 7.3 (actually in all my vehicles and toys). I use the 25000 mile extended life and usually change it every year and a half or so. Also use Amsoil in the tranny too. My temps run 10+ degrees cooler in both engine and trans.
My Cummins owners manual says use of synthetic is OK, but do NOT extend the TIME between changes to longer than 1 year. Since I only log about 2000 per year, synthetic would be overkill for me. Cummins says any brand of 15-40 high quality oil (like Rotella) is all I need.

I know that none of the major truck lines I drove for used synthetic. They make every decision based upon "return on investment", so I figure I'll follow along with those that KNOW.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:18 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by silver View Post
Everyone is talking about the engine. Don't forget to grease the front end, drive shaft, and slack adjusters. Should be done every 15000 miles when oil is done. Speaking of oil I have met many owners that say their manual says every 15000 miles. As they drive only 2000 or 3000 a year some have gone 5 years without an oil change. I change at the end of every season no matter how little I have driven. I do the generator at the same time. As said before oil is cheep compared to an engine.
X2 on the greasing, etc..... Even some FL shops will give you the "deer in the headlights" look when you mention the "initial" 6 months check list of things that should be checked/tightened/inspected/etc.

That checklist is quite extensive and thanks to my inexperience and their stupidty has only recently been done on my coach.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:27 PM   #36
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Editorial Comment (mostly to the original poster)

While I don't intend to demean ANYONE posting in this thread, many of the posts have been made by obvious "gear heads". You can tell by their signature lines that they are not MH owners, and that takiing care of their vehicle is their hobby.

Unless your taking care of your coach IS your hobby then reasonable common sense is all you need. Find a good FL shop (assumming your chassis is FL) that you can trust and let THEM handle all your servicing needs. IMHO, that is all you need to do. Just my $.02 worth, YMMV.

Finally, I am NOT intending to insult my camping bretheren here that do enjoy their trucks and taking care of them, so please don't flame me.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:42 PM   #37
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all diesels now have a diesel particulate filter. all diesels have some fuel dilution now due to incomplete regenerations and long idle times. It is best to change your oil once a year weather you have 5,000 miles or not. Change it when camping season is over after your last trip so not sit a lot with diry/diluted oil in it. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:45 PM   #38
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When I drove semi we were taught to drain the tanks daily. I NEVER had moisture come out. My FL book that came with the coach, says every 6 months is fine.

Boowho??
Huh. I did on my semi, maybe we have more humidity or something.
Maybe these coaches have aluminum tanks or they have better inside coatings....who knows.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:54 PM   #39
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Just know that with your diesel that it can run all day long with out needing to shut it off. Turning it on and off causes more wear and tear than just letting it run. The strain on your batteries and your starter are huge with every start up. Years ago when I had a part time driving job, driving diesel vans, we were told to start it up and leave it running until the end of the day. A day, meaning 10 hours. Most of the fleet vans had over 600,000 (six hundred thousand miles ) on them. People that only drive your units around 2,000 miles per year are not doing your rig any favors if they just sit the rest of the time. Water pump seals dry out and fail, o-rings contract and fail, hoses and belts dry out and get brittle, fuel lines and pump slowly drain out and takes more time and pressure to build up and start unit, oil slowly drains from metal and causes some friction when starting, batteries drain down from non use, battery and electrical connections corrode and loose contact, animals invade and build nests in dark dry places.

When not is use, start your unit every once in a while to lubricate everything and charge up your batts.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:06 PM   #40
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everyone is going to have something to say about maint requirements, in the long run do what you feel is best for you and what you can afford. what I do to my truck is completely opposite what most do, but I paid for it and I have my own kind of maint schedule..
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