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Old 09-19-2015, 10:44 AM   #21
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BTW, (back to the original topic)..... WHY would they design those trap doors to be so damn tight? And apparently, it does not loosen after it's initially removed and will be equally difficult to get up EVERY time.

I've even considered doing what it takes to remove mine, have it "shaved" maybe 1/16 total for a better fit. Expensive, but do-able I'd think.

Boowho??
That is what I did to mine. After taking it off twice I said that was enough. Randy told me it was so tight to keep fumes out of the coach but as the CO2 detector is in the bedroom I figure it will go off if the fumes come in. After trimming five years ago mine never has and yes I change the battery every year and replaced the detector when it aged out. I did it myself, bought a grinder from Harbor Freight for $19.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:51 AM   #22
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That is what I did to mine. After taking it off twice I said that was enough. Randy told me it was so tight to keep fumes out of the coach but as the CO2 detector is in the bedroom I figure it will go off if the fumes come in. After trimming five years ago mine never has and yes I change the battery every year and replaced the detector when it aged out. I did it myself, bought a grinder from Harbor Freight for $19.

Thanks for the info.... Makes sense, but I'd think a rubber seal would work just as well, and a LOT easier to get up. Hey, and let us know what you final radiator repair bill winds up being. SpeedMerchant thinks it will not be nearly as much as several thousand dollars.

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Old 09-19-2015, 11:14 AM   #23
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It is probably to lessen any engine noise in the back, so it doesn't leak from water or road splash and keep out any fumes from the engine.

I think so also. The proximity to toxic fluids, fumes and potential fires would have me leaving it alone. If it were an area that I was accessing frequently, then I might be inclined to make it open easier.


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Old 09-19-2015, 11:34 AM   #24
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Boo I removed mine shortly after I bought it. I removed the back panel first and all the screws. I then used a stiff putty knife to get the panel lifted and worked around until I could get a large screwdriver in. From there it is just a heavy door. I was disappointed by what I could see with the door removed. I am not sure if you could see the fan assembly. I don't remember.



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Old 09-19-2015, 12:10 PM   #25
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Boo, I believe that you mentioned that you have tile in the bedroom. I know with carpeting, they have to cut the carpet and I hope that FR didn't tile over the opening joints? - Hank
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:26 PM   #26
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(I am Kay - Boo's wife) I contacted Forest River on their website and the person who responded was Mike and under his name it just says Customer Service. Got an emal from him that he has forwarded my email to Randy Houser. Will see what Randy says.

Welcome to the forum Kay and bless your heart, you are a brave woman for having to put up with boohoo. OK I'm just joking around, don't take offense. And congrats on making 50 years with him.
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:57 PM   #27
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Did yours damage the radiator when it broke? The multi-thousand dollar figure I heard was for a completely ruined radiator.

I'll be stopping at an Oasis shop in a week or so. I'll ask them.

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No, no damage to the rad. I think damage to the rad would not be so easy as the air to air intercooler is in front of the rad and covers most of it. The intercooler is much more robust than a rad. It basically destroyed the fan and belt. Currently the fan and bracket have been pulled without the rad being removed. Just waiting on a couple parts to reinstall, going to change out the clutch fan while it's out and thermostat as well since we are in there. When I said it shouldn't be a $6K repair I was assuming the rad wouldn't need to be replaced. The price Silver has of $2K does that include the rad? I'll be able to tell you guys specifically in a couple days but the part for the new bracket alone is $961CAD. I was able to get that for free but I am assuming a fan will be around $200 and a clutch fan worst case $600 (CAD prices). All in if you had to pay for all parts, with no rad, your probably in around the $2K mark. plus labour. (yip that's how we spell "labor" up here in snow counrty ..lol).
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:52 AM   #28
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Welcome to the forum Kay and bless your heart, you are a brave woman for having to put up with boohoo. OK I'm just joking around, don't take offense. And congrats on making 50 years with him.
Mrs. Boo says thank you!!

I say get off my donkey!!!

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Old 09-20-2015, 09:54 AM   #29
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I think so also. The proximity to toxic fluids, fumes and potential fires would have me leaving it alone. If it were an area that I was accessing frequently, then I might be inclined to make it open easier.


Rich
Agree, now that I know the full story.

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Old 09-23-2015, 02:46 PM   #30
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Engine Access Panel

Boo I learned something today and they said I was too old. Units that have tile are most likely glued shut if not from the mastic they secure the tile with or from the grout. Same applies to vinyl tile and carpeting.
I have been told FL insisted on having an access means just in case service needed to get to the top of the engine to pull the engine which still comes out from under. There are things that service needs to get to but for us they don't want us in there.


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Old 09-23-2015, 05:16 PM   #31
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Boo I learned something today and they said I was too old. Units that have tile are most likely glued shut if not from the mastic they secure the tile with or from the grout. Same applies to vinyl tile and carpeting.
I have been told FL insisted on having an access means just in case service needed to get to the top of the engine to pull the engine which still comes out from under. There are things that service needs to get to but for us they don't want us in there.


Wayne

Thanks, Wayne.... Understand what "they" want, but it's still my damn coach.

That being said, I've decided to not mess with it, since the benefit will most likely be nil, and I don't need the fumes, etc coming back into the coach.

I'll be at an Oasis dealer in a few days, so I'm going to have them give me a reading on whether I have the "troublesome" fan hub bolts.

Good info, though....

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Old 09-23-2015, 07:51 PM   #32
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I have a 2013 390RB with tile. I've had the access door out but that was almost 2 years ago so I'm relying on a fuzzy memory. I removed the panel of the closet fascia and there are a couple of straps. There are also a few screws that need to be removed. The front edge of the access panel has a couple of metal fingers (for lack of a better word) that engage the bottom of the floor and make it difficult for that leading edge to come out unless the rear edge is lifted out first. There is a rubber seal around the entire opening to prevent road grime, engine exhaust or other fumes from entering the coach. The access door is fairly heavy too so be ready once you get it out to sit it down.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:58 PM   #33
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One strap and two big screws. Just verified it.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:33 AM   #34
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One strap and two big screws. Just verified it.
Thanks, edgewant.

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Old 10-11-2015, 07:00 PM   #35
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Hi Boo,

I was checking over the work I had done on the coach today and remembered your thread. I snapped some pictures of the hatch on my 2008 390QS. Only had the back half open. While not the same model as yours it might give you an idea what it looks like with the hatch open. I also took a picture of how I modified the hatch, handles and latches. Several others have asked. Forgive the dirt from the repair. Need a good rug cleaning. Last picture is the new fan clutch. This is the devil that started my problems.
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Old 10-12-2015, 07:45 PM   #36
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Hi Boo,

I was checking over the work I had done on the coach today and remembered your thread. I snapped some pictures of the hatch on my 2008 390QS. Only had the back half open. While not the same model as yours it might give you an idea what it looks like with the hatch open. I also took a picture of how I modified the hatch, handles and latches. Several others have asked. Forgive the dirt from the repair. Need a good rug cleaning. Last picture is the new fan clutch. This is the devil that started my problems.
Thanks silver.... I'll be opening my hatch in the next week or so, when I get to AZ for the winter.

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Old 10-13-2015, 01:12 PM   #37
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Thx Silver, this will help in checking multiple things.


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Old 10-13-2015, 03:47 PM   #38
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Engine Access Panel

Ok I have been worried about my fan hub ever since Silver had his very expensive failure. I had planned on wiggling into the engine compartment but I can't get in there. Between a really bad knee and my fat ass it isn't going to happen.
I decided to see it from the top. Easier for sure. There are 4 square head long screws that hold it in. 2 on the back panel and 2 on the floor panel. Remove them and buy new ones because they will strip out. Pull the back panel out from the top and use a pry bar to push the floor panel to the rear of the MH. It kinda all comes up at the same time. What holds the floor panel in is the two screws and two brackets that fit under the floor. Click image for larger version

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You can see the fan and the back of the radiator much better than I remember. Click image for larger version

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Be careful not to deny the aluminum trim. I did not to bad but if you use a wide pry bar to push the floor panel to the rear it should not dent.
Not a bad job at all. I will say that I do not have the socket to check the bolts on the hub. They appear tight and secure but that is just from feeling it and trying to push it. I feel confident that it is good.
Hope this helps.



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Old 10-13-2015, 05:12 PM   #39
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Dud it have 4 bolts or 5?


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Old 10-13-2015, 05:24 PM   #40
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Marty I have four bolts on the fan hub. It's a weird bolt like a Toric shape but a bolt. I have not seen a blot like that before.



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