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Old 11-28-2016, 10:46 AM   #1
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Frigidare ice maker

Question:

Is there a way to jump the water valve from under the cover of the ice maker to pump in the non-toxic AF to the ice maker? do not see any test points to jump. Does any one know?
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:58 AM   #2
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I have not found a way (I have a Whirlpool refrigerator) to jump the ice maker. I just make sure it is turned on when I start my winterizing and leave it on while I pump the anti freeze through the rest of the system. If you leave the ice maker on long enough, it will go through its cycle and the anti freeze will eventually get to it. (does your model have water and ice in the door? Mine does and I when I pump the anti freeze through I make sure that it comes out of the water in the door tap as well.)
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Old 11-28-2016, 02:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joet19711 View Post
Question:

Is there a way to jump the water valve from under the cover of the ice maker to pump in the non-toxic AF to the ice maker? do not see any test points to jump. Does any one know?
Other posts have suggested a jumper system to force the Ice Maker to cycle and clear the water. You pull off the cover of the ice maker and run a jumper between the T and H terminals to make it cycle.

One problem is that you need it to cycle several times to clear properly, because the water supply line usually comes from the bathroom sink rather than the kitchen sink on Berks, for some unusual reason. Another problem is that the ice maker only seems to cycle if the freezer is cold, so you have to keep the fridge on.

I found where the supply line goes under my kitchen sink and patched the ice make line into the cold line there. This cut the length of my supply line in half.

I use air rather than antifreeze to winterize my fresh water lines. So, I run a hose from my air pressure fitting on the firewall in the generator compartment to my blowout connector on the water manifold. First, I blow out the kitchen sink. Then, I leave the refrigerator on with pressure to the water lines overnight. I wind up with a bunch of ice cubes the next morning and an empty air tank.

BTW, I put an adjustable pressure reducing valve and air pressure gauge on my air supply line so that I can drop the air pressure from 125 psi to 50 psi when I blow out my lines.
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Old 11-28-2016, 03:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonsick View Post
Other posts have suggested a jumper system to force the Ice Maker to cycle and clear the water. You pull off the cover of the ice maker and run a jumper between the T and H terminals to make it cycle.

One problem is that you need it to cycle several times to clear properly, because the water supply line usually comes from the bathroom sink rather than the kitchen sink on Berks, for some unusual reason. Another problem is that the ice maker only seems to cycle if the freezer is cold, so you have to keep the fridge on.

I found where the supply line goes under my kitchen sink and patched the ice make line into the cold line there. This cut the length of my supply line in half.

I use air rather than antifreeze to winterize my fresh water lines. So, I run a hose from my air pressure fitting on the firewall in the generator compartment to my blowout connector on the water manifold. First, I blow out the kitchen sink. Then, I leave the refrigerator on with pressure to the water lines overnight. I wind up with a bunch of ice cubes the next morning and an empty air tank.

BTW, I put an adjustable pressure reducing valve and air pressure gauge on my air supply line so that I can drop the air pressure from 125 psi to 50 psi when I blow out my lines.

I have pulled the cover off of mine and do not see any terminals there.
My supply line is under the kitchen sink.

I was hoping that someone that has a 38A with the Frigidaire ice maker inside the freezer had already tried to force the water valve on.

Trying not to winterize, I am able to keep heat on the coach until we depart for Florida in January

thanks
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Old 11-28-2016, 03:08 PM   #5
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The terminals are recessed and have letters embossed in the plastic.

You need to strip a #14 household wire and loop it to do the jump. But, I didn't bother this year because it didn't help last year.

Glad that they moved the supply line on your coach to a logical place.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonsick View Post
The terminals are recessed and have letters embossed in the plastic.

You need to strip a #14 household wire and loop it to do the jump. But, I didn't bother this year because it didn't help last year.

Glad that they moved the supply line on your coach to a logical place.
I do not see the letters, I guess I will just let the ice maker run until the red comes out..
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:17 AM   #7
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Here's a good link to the operation and trouble shooting of a whirlpool ice maker.

Whirlpool 'Modular' Compact Crescent-Mold Icemaker | The Appliance Clinic
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by CRL1 View Post
Here's a good link to the operation and trouble shooting of a whirlpool ice maker.

Whirlpool 'Modular' Compact Crescent-Mold Icemaker | The Appliance Clinic
I do not have that brand ice maker, nor does it look like the above.

I just ran non-toxic juice thru and made some slushy cubes and all is well.

thanks.

CRL1: since we live close to each other, I would like to come see your coach some time..

Joe
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:49 PM   #9
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Joe,

I thought they were talking about Whirlpool Ice makers in the beginning of this thread.
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