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Old 12-31-2013, 02:28 PM   #21
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So the original intent was just to blow air under the couch (?) pretty poor concept. Maybe a register of some kind would work but i really don't want to cut holes in the couch. Or, as stated before, a deflector of some sort to better direct the air.
To be honest I have never seen such a mess in my life. I have been in HVAC for 25 years, and people wonder why the units do not heat. Is there a way to move it out of that area and cut a new 21/4 x 12 register boot in? You can get one at lowes. I don't know your layout so I really can't say. You do not want it just to dump under the sofa.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:32 PM   #22
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Are you talking about the full size couch behind the driver or the love seat behind the passenger? On my coach, the vent hose under the love seat was crimped also but I have 2 vents in the front bottom of the love seat. Haven't used the heat yet but hopefully nothing else is messed up.
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Old 12-31-2013, 03:33 PM   #23
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Tmmar: full-size couch behind passenger seat. No vents exposed. Air is just blown under couch. I have not had the chance to get a good look at the setup yet to see if any lines are crimped/crushed.
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Old 12-31-2013, 03:57 PM   #24
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Excess Heat

Let me tell you one about Excess Heat. We were told that the Cargo Bay in our new Crusader 270RET was heated and we could leave stuff in there during the winter when out camping. Boy were they right, the first outing it must have been 200 degree's in that cargo bay. On the other hand, the bathroom and bedroom were only luke warm. Removing the Bulkhead wall we soon found out why, the two flexible supply ducts to a center line plenum, were not connected at all. Removed the plenum connection and connected the two flexible ducts, now all is right. The other heating problem was corrected at the years FROG in Goshen, thanks to the Forest River Repair Crew:
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:16 PM   #25
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RK-
Your layout is the opposite of mine. I have the full size sofa behind the driver and love seat behind the passenger. I guess they duct all the Berkshire 390's the same regardless of the furniture layout.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:09 AM   #26
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We have a 2013 390FL with the same set up. The front furnace has 2 vents that discharge under the sofa. We have found this to be totally inadequate and have added a ceramic space heater to help. The rear furnace does a good job of keeping the BR and bath warm but as I said the front one needs help.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:31 PM   #27
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This might work?

I found something called a register boot that may help us redirect the air from the ducting to blow under rather than into the couch. Just have to find one that fits 4 inch ducting...
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:40 PM   #28
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I guess I'm lucky on this one although I will be looking behind my couch what a mess some have. The funny thing is I have only one furnace in my 2011 RB. We haven't used the MH in real cold weather but will starting Jan 10. Does everyone have two furnaces and where is the second one? Mine is right across from the second bath below the washer and dryer. I also have not ever changed a filter on the furnace. Where is it?



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Old 01-01-2014, 12:42 PM   #29
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I guess I'm lucky on this one although I will be looking behind my couch what a mess some have. The funny thing is I have only one furnace in my 2011 RB. We haven't used the MH in real cold weather but will starting Jan 10. Does everyone have two furnaces and where is the second one? Mine is right across from the second bath below the washer and dryer. I also have not ever changed a filter on the furnace. Where is it?
Second one is below the countertop gas grill
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:00 PM   #30
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Not on mine I have three drawers. I am almost sure I have only one. It seems once again there are not two Berkshire's that are built the same. Sure hope the one keeps us warm on the way to FL.



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Old 01-01-2014, 02:45 PM   #31
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I found something called a register boot that may help us redirect the air from the ducting to blow under rather than into the couch. Just have to find one that fits 4 inch ducting...
That is exactly what you need either the straight boot or 90 degree. They due sell them with a 4" inlet that your duct attaches to at Lowes or Home depot. Get a 2and1/4 by 12"
to match. Then just move it where you want. a 4" is very common size.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:43 AM   #32
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I wish I'd shot a few more pictures before I buttoned it all back up... there are 2 4" ducts that run behind the cabinet, those feed the 4 2" ducts in my photos. The 2" go under the back of the couch and there is virtually no additional clearance. The couch design limits you to 2" ducting on the back side. The hoses run to a board with 2" holes in it near the front of the couch. Something like the straight register boot would probably be effective but would need to be 2" not 4".

I have a rough sketch that may help the discussion. I'll probably wish I'd pulled the couch back apart and took photos instead but at least this may help conceptually. Sure won't get me into the art academy.


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Old 01-02-2014, 02:12 AM   #33
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G0ttawonder, You could always remove the 2" ducts that are really useless and just extend the 4" to one register and move it somewhere else if you have the room in the basement. They may also have a 4"x2" reducer collar or you could get one made at a sheetmetal shop. But the best would be to move it maybe next to the wall you show if there is room to get the can in.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:53 AM   #34
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G0ttawonder, You could always remove the 2" ducts that are really useless and just extend the 4" to one register and move it somewhere else if you have the room in the basement. They may also have a 4"x2" reducer collar or you could get one made at a sheetmetal shop. But the best would be to move it maybe next to the wall you show if there is room to get the can in.
Basement isn't an option because the kitchen (including furnace) and sofa is all on a slide:



If the sofa back was stationary you'd have more room to work the floor behind it, and seat belts don't help the situation either. You could potentially bring custom duct work back between the cabinet and sofa but even that would be tight. If someone was determined to maximize flow they might even give up the bottom left cabinet drawer, but that would put the register next to the return.

The air under sofa will heat the living area but I don't think anyone will argue it's efficient use of 20k btu furnace. Should be enough heat loss to keep the sofa comfy Next thing I'll do is insulate the ducts once they go under the couch and look for boots or some sort of diverter to move the airflow directly to the edge of where is flows under sofa. Honestly, I'll be done worrying about the heat in about 4 weeks and be hoping the A/Cs can get the job done.

An aside to those with this setup: I'm not thrilled with the metal feet of the pullout sofa support on the ceramic tile. I'll probably shrinkwrap that or toss a thin vinyl mat underneath it when extended.

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Old 01-02-2014, 08:22 AM   #35
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Basement isn't an option because the kitchen (including furnace) and sofa is all on a slide:



If the sofa back was stationary you'd have more room to work the floor behind it, and seat belts don't help the situation either. You could potentially bring custom duct work back between the cabinet and sofa but even that would be tight. If someone was determined to maximize flow they might even give up the bottom left cabinet drawer, but that would put the register next to the return.

The air under sofa will heat the living area but I don't think anyone will argue it's efficient use of 20k btu furnace. Should be enough heat loss to keep the sofa comfy Next thing I'll do is insulate the ducts once they go under the couch and look for boots or some sort of diverter to move the airflow directly to the edge of where is flows under sofa. Honestly, I'll be done worrying about the heat in about 4 weeks and be hoping the A/Cs can get the job done.

An aside to those with this setup: I'm not thrilled with the metal feet of the pullout sofa support on the ceramic tile. I'll probably shrinkwrap that or toss a thin vinyl mat underneath it when extended.

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First let me say nice MH. You can move the return air being they are not ducted. If I understand you correctly the FAU is located in the slide bottom only not in the basement. Is this a true statement? You could get better air flow and do what you are thinking, but I would have 5" x 5" can made and tap your heat run off that,( go from the 4" run to the can, that alone would give you max air flow) get rid of that mess they ran with all the 2" ducts. You can do that over the summer. Is the return air in the bottom of the cabinet under the stove? You could make a drawer out that area and use the one to the right for your return which will move it away far enough so you wouldn't just draw the air right back in. It is a real shame that you spent all that money and this is how they do it. Also if you have space behind the sofa you could cut a R/A in the floor even if you just cut 2 4x14 registers in the floor. You can tell me shut up at anytime, but just throwing out ideas to you. Somethings to ponder on before next winter. I would also send pictures to FR and show them that great job they did, and now you have to deal with it. Good Luck....
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:05 AM   #36
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Could you substitute the flexible silver ducts with a hard metal type? That would eliminate the problem with sofa rubbing on the duct: At least they are all hooked up, two of our's that fed the bath and bedroom were not hooked up to the plenum that they fed. Made the cargo compartment just like an oven.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #37
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First let me say nice MH. You can move the return air being they are not ducted. If I understand you correctly the FAU is located in the slide bottom only not in the basement. Is this a true statement? You could get better air flow and do what you are thinking, but I would have 5" x 5" can made and tap your heat run off that,( go from the 4" run to the can, that alone would give you max air flow) get rid of that mess they ran with all the 2" ducts. You can do that over the summer. Is the return air in the bottom of the cabinet under the stove? You could make a drawer out that area and use the one to the right for your return which will move it away far enough so you wouldn't just draw the air right back in. It is a real shame that you spent all that money and this is how they do it. Also if you have space behind the sofa you could cut a R/A in the floor even if you just cut 2 4x14 registers in the floor. You can tell me shut up at anytime, but just throwing out ideas to you. Somethings to ponder on before next winter. I would also send pictures to FR and show them that great job they did, and now you have to deal with it. Good Luck....
Thanks... I went into this adventure eyes wide open; I knew there was stuff that would get redone/rebuilt/duct taped. I didn't find a new rig I liked better at this price point, so grab the tool box and go for a ride.

Yes furnace is above basement and return is below the stove top. As suggested I may explore custom duct work if I leave it under couch; you also had good ideas about modding the cabinet. As another member has pointed out, getting the second furnace is an upgrade from 2011 so I'll take it. There have been a few members check in with recent purchases of the same rig, so I was trying to make them aware of the issue with the hoses. As for sending pics to FR, I suspect they're peeking in here...I certainly would be.

I've been pretty verbose on this topic for a rookie. These forums are invaluable swap meets for information. Glad to be a part of this one.


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Old 01-02-2014, 11:30 AM   #38
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Gottawonder and all,
Thanks for all of the info-really helps. Seems to me the best bet will be metal ducting directed to blow from under the couch. Will have to search whats available to fit and will post any solutions found. Good luck to all and keep posting your solutions since it helps everyone. Happy New Year!
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:35 AM   #39
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I am considering rerouting a couple of the 2" ducts to a 2" x 10" outlet in the toe plate of the cabinets below the return air. Cutting the toe plate will be fun!!
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:01 AM   #40
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Customer Care

The folks at Forest River are really a great bunch of guys and gals. If you wait until Goshen in August, Forest River would probably do all this for you while you are there, at no charge, they want satisfied customers. Mine was fixed to perfection, have not tried it this winter as yet, but we will soon.
Glad to be of help, others I sure feel the same way..I would give Customer Care a call and ask for Rick!




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Gottawonder and all,
Thanks for all of the info-really helps. Seems to me the best bet will be metal ducting directed to blow from under the couch. Will have to search whats available to fit and will post any solutions found. Good luck to all and keep posting your solutions since it helps everyone. Happy New Year!
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