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Old 07-01-2015, 11:56 PM   #21
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Yes we have the same problem with ours. I was told by our dealer that the pump doesn't have enough water pressure, so temperature fluctuates. But the pump we have is the one that comes in our 2015 Shockwave. Basically our Girard is work in progress. I wish I had a tank not a tankless.
I have seen you can get those pressure equalization or expansion tanks and it hooks up next to the water pump. Maybe I can try that and see if that helps keep the water temp. more stable.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:03 AM   #22
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When we were at FR plant I asked Dave Carpenter about swapping the Girard for an Atwood, he said it would fit but I'd have to change the cover. Did you have to change your cover and re-paint?

Yes there are differences in construction and there was repainting but you would not know it did not come from factory that way they did a great job. Dealer did everything for no cost to me.
There are many posts on this item and some success stories of no problem operation but I ask myself multiple times if things are great why did FR change manufactures for the 2016.
Time will tell we leave this morning for a weekend of camping so stay tuned for an update next week on how it went.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:19 AM   #23
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PFurlow: Look on page 24 of the attached manual and it will tell you how to test the gas modulator switch (that's the knob that adjusts the temperature rise).

williamthiess: There are also instructions in this manual on how to check the sail switch.

Hope this helps.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf GSWH-1-1M Serv Man downloadable.pdf (1.78 MB, 109 views)
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:23 AM   #24
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Hey not to change the subject, but does anyone else bump the water fixture in the shower and change the temp? I'm a little paranoid that I'll burn myself when I take a shower.


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Old 07-02-2015, 09:28 AM   #25
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Hasn't been a problem so far (bumping the fixture), but then with the water heater issues we've had, I've only gotten to shower in the RV one time and I scalded a nice spot on my shoulder then (about 3" diameter - blistered and peeled - fun!). We did notice, though, that if we turned off the flow at the shower head (actually just decreased it since it has to flow some) the fixture appeared to be leaking from behind it. The guys are looking at it right now along with the other issues, but the tech told me yesterday that the hose to the shower head is a push on connection that tends to leak sometimes. They fix it by putting a clamp around it.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:32 PM   #26
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Yes there are differences in construction and there was repainting but you would not know it did not come from factory that way they did a great job. Dealer did everything for no cost to me.
There are many posts on this item and some success stories of no problem operation but I ask myself multiple times if things are great why did FR change manufactures for the 2016.
Time will tell we leave this morning for a weekend of camping so stay tuned for an update next week on how it went.

As promised returned from our weekend camping outing after using new Atwood tankless. Have to say compared to original Girard, Atwood worked much better but any brand of tankless is going to require a new education of use. At least I did not take a cold shower. The only negative comment I have is the Atwood modulator control adjustment is located on the unit and requires removal of the door while the Girard is located inside the RV but this adjustment should not require continual tweaking.
For the simplest thing like the door latch the Atwood uses a metal thumb screw while the Girard has a plastic quarter turn latch that broke first trip out.
So now you have my testimonial I highly recommend the Atwood model.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:51 AM   #27
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I'm an unhappy Girard owner. I was surprised when reading the Atwood water heater that you can add cold water to adjust the temperature. The Atwood temp. control is buried at the unit, but perhaps like our home water heaters, we do not need the control next to our shower. Atwood says nothing about a temp. limit and much about water flow.

15berkxl; please keep us posted and what is your name? Here is a snippet of the Atwood manual:

The modulating water valve will have a factory preset setting
which is designed and tested for an approximate 65F rise in
temperature for a hot water flow rate ranging from 1.00 GPM
to 1.25 GPM as measured at the water outlet (ie. faucet or
shower head). Pictures of this valve adjustment are on the
next page. The consumer is encouraged to set the modulating
valve to provide hot water in the 110F-115F range. The
consumer can then add cold water to achieve the desired
hot water temperature.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:04 AM   #28
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Here is the link to the Atwood:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/ODWH.pdf
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:21 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-RV View Post
I'm an unhappy Girard owner. I was surprised when reading the Atwood water heater that you can add cold water to adjust the temperature. The Atwood temp. control is buried at the unit, but perhaps like our home water heaters, we do not need the control next to our shower. Atwood says nothing about a temp. limit and much about water flow.

15berkxl; please keep us posted and what is your name? Here is a snippet of the Atwood manual:

The modulating water valve will have a factory preset setting
which is designed and tested for an approximate 65F rise in
temperature for a hot water flow rate ranging from 1.00 GPM
to 1.25 GPM as measured at the water outlet (ie. faucet or
shower head). Pictures of this valve adjustment are on the
next page. The consumer is encouraged to set the modulating
valve to provide hot water in the 110F-115F range. The
consumer can then add cold water to achieve the desired
hot water temperature.

My name is Wayne. You are correct how often do you need to adjust the control it is meant to be a seasonal adjust to compensate for water temp not a cure all.
As for limits all units have to have a limit the Atwood only limit is resettable at 160 deg but so far that limit never came into play unlike the Girard that did so every use.
During use when temp started to get hotter than I wanted u could add colder water, yes it turned off the burner but quick adjusting the faucet turned the burner back on. Only once did the heater go into lockout I guess for not turning on but toggling the on off switch located in the bathroom restored operation.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:34 AM   #30
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Good morning, I-RV; Joe here. My unit is a bit different as I'm in a Legacy instead of the Berkshire. My on/off switch that has to be toggled if it locks out is outside in the water heater cabinet and the gas modulator switch to set the temp differential is in the over sink cabinet......of the OTHER bathroom! Not sure why they did it that way, but neither is readily accessible when showering (at least not without complaints from the other passengers and/or the neighbors!). Mine has been in the shop since last Wednesday for them to get the water heater working so I don't get scalded again, and, yes, I mean literally scalded. Blistered and peeled in a circular area of my shoulder. Just glad the shower head wasn't hanging down when I turned it back on or it would have been MUCH more painful! They supposedly replaced the flow switch when I picked it up at the dealer after purchase but I have some doubts that they actually did. The new tech said he is replacing the flow switch and the ECO as a set and that doing it that way seems to work much better for him. He's also talking about replacing the gas modulator valve (the temp rise switch) with an updated version. On another unit, he actually pulled out the Girard and installed the new Atwood, but they have to send the door to the body shop for painting as it is larger than the Girard door. I've also seen one owner on here that had his replaced with a standard tank model. Watch for my updates - hope to get it back early this week....working!
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:18 PM   #31
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I can't say I haven't had issues with mine but they seem to be worked out and my Gerard is great. We adjust sometimes especially when pulling from the tank. It was a big learning curve for my wife but once she understood the temp is all dependent on the pressure we were good. We have more issues when we are in a park with low water pressure. Then we use the tank and pump.



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Old 07-06-2015, 06:37 PM   #32
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Gerard water heater in 2015 Berkshire XL

I'd like to hear from the guy that put a tank heater in. A 6 gallon one would be fine by me. I'm not impressed with my on demand Girard!!

Been on the phone today with Girard. Suggestion was to make sure to get all air out of system--low point drains, outside shower, W&D. Then take a screwdriver (the handle end) and tap on line in back of heater 7 or 8 times.

To me the above was some funny s*** but I did all that. Turn it back on and that sucker started working again ?? Not sure I care to go thru that very often. Would not be a pretty site if I had to get out of shower and go outside & tap on heater!!!

Russell
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:13 PM   #33
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Russell the air in the lines is in my opinion BS. Yes everything works better with no air in the line but it's not the cause of the problem. The Gerard needs consistent water pressure to set the dial btu correctly. Once that is set we control the temp by the faucet. Full blast is warm half is hot It works for us move after move. A oxygen shower head helps a lot



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Old 07-06-2015, 08:14 PM   #34
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On mine the thought was that the valve in the back was stuck. The air was just something else he felt would help. If that valve is bad or stuck. Nothing happens!!

Russell.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:01 PM   #35
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We have had our fights with the Gerard WH. We had the gen one and they replaced it at the factory. We thought wow we got the best now. Not so fast. It took lots of playing around with it. We also had a valve go bad. It rattles like crazy but I have that fixed for now. But we like it. We never think about running out of HW and we have the temperature thing working for us so far.



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Old 07-06-2015, 09:06 PM   #36
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I've had 6 gallon & 10 gallon water heaters in RV'S in the past. We never had any problem running out of hot water. We've used this Girard for a year with no issues till this weekend. Hopefully I'll be able to keep it going now that I understand it better.

Russell
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:17 AM   #37
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One more thing I thought about is the fan on the Atwood is a lot quieter than its predecessor. With our floor plan the bath in the rear and next to the bedroom every time it turned on you heard it. I never hear the Atwood fan in fact the first time it ran I went outside to confirm it was working.

Wayne
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:26 AM   #38
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Now your just trying to make all the rest of us feel bad !!! Lol

My guess is it won't be long before I change to something else. Most likely back to old school for me. A tank.

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Old 07-07-2015, 10:47 AM   #39
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One more thing I thought about is the fan on the Atwood is a lot quieter than its predecessor. With our floor plan the bath in the rear and next to the bedroom every time it turned on you heard it. I never hear the Atwood fan in fact the first time it ran I went outside to confirm it was working.

Wayne
Thanks for the info. on the fan noise too Wayne. That's also on the list of things I dislike abiut our Gerard.
We were at the Beach all last weekend for the 4th, had hook up's so great water pressure. Every time we use the hot water the temp. came out different. I was thinking also for when we are dry camp camping how much more water is wasted just messing around with the bloody temp. control. Also, 12volt battery power. Just to wash your hands the fan runs for an extra 35 seconds.
Never again fcr my wife and I.
Anyone know how much to remove ithe Girard and install a tank? Just thinking out loud. Our shockwave is only 4 months old but I'm getting to that point.

Cheers, Barrie.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:20 PM   #40
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I have been having problems with mine water heater since I purchased the unit in 2011. Have attempted all of the fixes that have been talked about on this forum and nothing has worked so far. Just purchased a Watts high flow regulator but have not had a change to try it out yet. Problem certainly seems to be linked to flow rate. Proper purging of the lines is also important.
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