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Old 07-19-2015, 07:48 AM   #81
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I switched my sail switch out. Two little bolts & two wires.

I'm with you Phil--Girard's help on the phone & their next day parts shipment great. But I for one not so proud of their product in this environment.

Their #1 excuse is make sure all air out of system ???? WTH how can you get all air out of system !! Low point drains, washer, there always air in system!!!

All that being said --mine working ok right now again. Lol

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Old 07-19-2015, 08:17 AM   #82
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Try using electrical contact cleaner in the sail switch. I had a similar issue. The sail switch was getting hung up. I got a can of electrical contact cleaner at lowes and sprayed the switch. It worked instantly after that. It looks like road dust ect can get in the switch button and make it stick.


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Old 07-19-2015, 08:49 AM   #83
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Try using electrical contact cleaner in the sail switch. I had a similar issue. The sail switch was getting hung up. I got a can of electrical contact cleaner at lowes and sprayed the switch. It worked instantly after that. It looks like road dust ect can get in the switch button and make it stick.


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That's what I was thinking. I think I have some and will give it a try. It's been working fine all day yesterday and this morning.



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Old 07-19-2015, 09:29 AM   #84
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That's what I was thinking. I think I have some and will give it a try. It's been working fine all day yesterday and this morning.

Hope it works for you. I now spray mine every few months. Haven't had a issue since. Let me know how it works for you. Good luck.


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Old 07-19-2015, 09:50 AM   #85
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Captnrick: I agree - three weeks is absurd. My last coach was bought used and we had an extended warranty for big problems (never used it!) but I fixed the small thing myself. This heater, though, has not worked since new! Here in Florida you'd think RV repair service would be great but it really sucks. Every dealership seems to be the same story. The place we have it has something like 125 service bays and 250 technicians and they stay swamped. There are about 40 parking spaces in their service checkin lanes and I have yet to arrive and be able to park in a lane - always wind up in overflow next door. Don't even want to think what it's like when the snowbirds arrive!
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:44 AM   #86
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Captnrick: I agree - three weeks is absurd. My last coach was bought used and we had an extended warranty for big problems (never used it!) but I fixed the small thing myself. This heater, though, has not worked since new! here in Florida you'd think ZrV repair service would be great but it really sucks. Every dealership seems to be the same story. The place we have it has something like 125 service bays and 250 technicians and they stay swamped. There are about 40 parking spaces in their service checkin lanes and I have yet to arrive and be able to park in a lane - always wind up in overflow next door. Don't even want to think what it's like when the snowbirds arrive!
Wow, I had no idea it was that crowded. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:45 AM   #87
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Thanks Russell. I couldn't remember the name. I have the number. I know there are lots of folks that don't like the heater but the customer service with Girard is outstanding. I have had a switch sent out and received the next day. I got the tracking number before I hung up. With there help the heater is simply to work on.
Has anyone tried to disassemble the sail switch?
Thanks for the info. I'm going to order a switch to carry in my parts arsenal.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:47 PM   #88
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Update on installation of watt pressure regulator

I installed my new watt regulator before going on a week long trip to Minnisota. I was really really hoping that this would finally solve my ongoing problems with this crazy Girard water heater.

I am sorry to report that although this new regulator has solved my low flow problem .... it did nothing to help me in the quest for hot or even warm water.

Since my return to Calgary I have been on the phone with Kyle at Girard.. He was convinced that my problem was improper purging of air from the system. He stressed the fact that it is very important to purge air from both the city and tank side of the system. Since I never use the tank side, I was hopeful that this may finally be the solution.

After filling the tank with water and hooking back up to system I purged the air from.bost sides. I even went so far as to run a load of wash. After testing all taps at.various flow rated, on city and pump, and with the switch on both auto and low .... I still have no consistent source of hot water.

I have sent an email to Kyle but quite frankly I am at my witty end. I have been screwing around with this water heater since I purchased my unit new in late 2011. I have attempted every possible solution that has been suggested on this forum.

All I want is a nice warm shower.

I fear my only solution is to pull this piece of cap from my RV and replace it with a standard tank style heater.

Has anyone attempted this?
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:54 PM   #89
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Update on installation of watt pressure regulator

I installed my new watt regulator before going on a week long trip to Minnisota. I was really really hoping that this would finally solve my ongoing problems with this crazy Girard water heater.

I am sorry to report that although this new regulator has solved my low flow problem .... it did nothing to help me in the quest for hot or even warm water.

Since my return to Calgary I have been on the phone with Kyle at Girard.. He was convinced that my problem was improper purging of air from the system. He stressed the fact that it is very important to purge air from both the city and tank side of the system. Since I never use the tank side, I was hopeful that this may finally be the solution.

After filling the tank with water and hooking back up to system I purged the air from.bost sides. I even went so far as to run a load of wash. After testing all taps at.various flow rated, on city and pump, and with the switch on both auto and low .... I still have no consistent source of hot water.

I have sent an email to Kyle but quite frankly I am at my witty end. I have been screwing around with this water heater since I purchased my unit new in late 2011. I have attempted every possible solution that has been suggested on this forum.

All I want is a nice warm shower.

I fear my only solution is to pull this piece of cap from my RV and replace it with a standard tank style heater.

Has anyone attempted this?

Do you have a Gen 1 or 2



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Old 07-21-2015, 09:05 PM   #90
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I'm not really sure but I think it.is a Gen 1
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:16 PM   #91
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The difference is the Gen 2 has a BTU adjustment in the MH. If yours hasn't been changed out its most likely a Gen 1. Mine came with a Gen 1 but was switched out for a 2.
Now in my experience increasing the water pressure will cool off the water. With a gen 1 you should get hot water at around 40#. The faster you push water the less time it has to warm in the chamber. It would be a good idea to see if Randy can help you at all. I know you are out if warranty but it sounds like you have done everything you can to get this thing working correctly. The biggest issue I had with the Gen 1 was the water was way to hot. Go figure.



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Old 07-21-2015, 09:16 PM   #92
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I have notice a number of posts talking about.a sail.switch. Can someone please post a photo of this switch
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:23 PM   #93
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I don't have a picture but it's the triangle metal piece that is in the exhaust. You can see this with the cover on. If you remove the cover the switch it's self is white and the triangle paddle only allows the gas to go to the burner if the exhaust fan is in and pushing the sail(triangle metal piece) out. If you turn on the hot water then go outside you can see the flame. Gently push the sail in and the flame goes out. Is the flame on yours a nice blue? Is it a healthy flame?



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Old 07-21-2015, 09:37 PM   #94
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Lefaive
As Phil asked if you had a Gen 1 or 2. On my 2012 berk it had a Gen 1. I had all the problems you described and could NEVER get a constant warm flow no matter what I did. I met the President of Girard at a show an complained to him. He then authorized a Gen 2 to be sent to me free but I had to psy for the installation which I did. I had to return the Gen 1 at my expense. It was well worth the expenses as i have not had any temp consistency issues with the Gen 2. Glad I made the switch. If you have a Gen 1 get rid of it.


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Old 07-21-2015, 11:56 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lefaivre930827
Update on installation of watt pressure regulator

I installed my new watt regulator before going on a week long trip to Minnisota. I was really really hoping that this would finally solve my ongoing problems with this crazy Girard water heater.

I am sorry to report that although this new regulator has solved my low flow problem .... it did nothing to help me in the quest for hot or even warm water.

Since my return to Calgary I have been on the phone with Kyle at Girard.. He was convinced that my problem was improper purging of air from the system. He stressed the fact that it is very important to purge air from both the city and tank side of the system. Since I never use the tank side, I was hopeful that this may finally be the solution.

After filling the tank with water and hooking back up to system I purged the air from.bost sides. I even went so far as to run a load of wash. After testing all taps at.various flow rated, on city and pump, and with the switch on both auto and low .... I still have no consistent source of hot water.

I have sent an email to Kyle but quite frankly I am at my witty end. I have been screwing around with this water heater since I purchased my unit new in late 2011. I have attempted every possible solution that has been suggested on this forum.

All I want is a nice warm shower.

I fear my only solution is to pull this piece of cap from my RV and replace it with a standard tank style heater.

Has anyone attempted this?
lefaivre, we feel your pain.
Today I took our Shockwave into the Dealers to get the water pump worked on and also the Girard. The dealer says the Girard problem is probably due to the water pressure from the pump. But that is the pump that Forrest River uses. They are going to get me a price on upgrading the pump to one with more volume and or pressure.
Also, I asked about switching out the tankless to a tank water heater. He says it would cost about $1000.00 for a 10 gallon unit.
That's all big money for a 5th wheel that's only 4 months old.
We have been chasing this water heater, water pressure issue now since we picked it up in March.
i will keep everyone posted about the results.
By the way. I must have a generation 2 because I have a temp. controler in the bathroom.
Didn't I read somewhere that now Forrest River are putting in the Atwood ?
Good luck Boys !!!
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:25 AM   #96
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lefaivre, we feel your pain.

Today I took our Shockwave into the Dealers to get the water pump worked on and also the Girard. The dealer says the Girard problem is probably due to the water pressure from the pump. But that is the pump that Forrest River uses. They are going to get me a price on upgrading the pump to one with more volume and or pressure.

Also, I asked about switching out the tankless to a tank water heater. He says it would cost about $1000.00 for a 10 gallon unit.

That's all big money for a 5th wheel that's only 4 months old.

We have been chasing this water heater, water pressure issue now since we picked it up in March.

i will keep everyone posted about the results.

By the way. I must have a generation 2 because I have a temp. controler in the bathroom.

Didn't I read somewhere that now Forrest River are putting in the Atwood ?

Good luck Boys !!!

Well I don't see $1,000 to be out of line for the remodel to a 10 gallon tank hot water system

I've yet to find anyone to even look at that option for me. I've talked to 3 remodelers that I thought might do it. They just not interested. When I get back home I have another guy to talk to. Just to find a place to put a tank system is the issue on the Berkshire.

Russell
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:50 AM   #97
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Well I don't see $1,000 to be out of line for the remodel to a 10 gallon tank hot water system

I've yet to find anyone to even look at that option for me. I've talked to 3 remodelers that I thought might do it. They just not interested. When I get back home I have another guy to talk to. Just to find a place to put a tank system is the issue on the Berkshire.

Russell
I agree Russell.
But I hate to dump a grand into a new RV because of their poor engineering and design.
Our dealer says manufactures try to keep sizes and openings similar in case of change outs. We shall see.
I haven't given up yet on what we have now. They are upgrading my pump. Let's see if that helps.

Cheers, Barrie.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:53 PM   #98
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Gerard water heater in 2015 Berkshire XL

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I agree Russell.

But I hate to dump a grand into a new RV because of their poor engineering and design.

Our dealer says manufactures try to keep sizes and openings similar in case of change outs. We shall see.

I haven't given up yet on what we have now. They are upgrading my pump. Let's see if that helps.



Cheers, Barrie.

I believe the size & hole are fit for the different "on demand" models. Like Girard, Atwood, and Truma

The issue in the Berkshire would be where to put a 10 gallon tank?? Sure not fit in that small hole!! Then in mine the washer & dryer are just behind that's small space.

Russell
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:02 PM   #99
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Well add mine to the d ones not work, but I see that they respond to calls I'll give that a try, ps cold showers are refreshing but not at 6am 😁
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:06 PM   #100
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If you have ever removed the panel below your washer, you will see that there is quite a bit of room to accommodate a standard water heater.

That being said, after several years of fighting with this silly heater it would appear that Kyle from Girard has found a fix.

The Gen1 model came with an auto/low switch that would activate two burner settings. The low setting would only be used if the input temp was rather high.

Apparently the auto switches have a tendency to fail or stick on the low setting.

As indicated on the attached photos .... if you remove outside access panel and look to the back side top left, you will see a round switch with 2 black wires with blue blade connectors.

Remove the two wires frome switch and connect them together. This will change the switch inside coach from auto/low to high/low.

With an input temp of 58f it will give 111f at 1gph and hotter if I slow down the flow.

It works fine with my unit parked on my driveway .... cannot wait to try it out on a trip
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