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Old 03-06-2017, 02:37 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
It appears that the inverter has its own transfer switch built in. It is fed by 30 amps of 115 AC and will move the loads from inverter output to shore power when it sees 115 volts on the panel feed. This is pretty standard for fancy inverter installations. The inverter uses a sub panel that feeds multiple breakers from its 115 v input and its output.
OK, let's be careful. You are technically correct and I'm picking on semantics here, but I think it matters in the interest of clarity for all.

THE transfer switch looks for shore power and generator power and picks one so they are never both feeding the 120V AC system. Using that word anywhere else is IMHO ill advised. (And for the life of me I can't remember the priority, ie when they are BOTH available which one is picked..... I THINK it's generator but don't hold me to that).

If EITHER is powering the bus it runs right through the inverter and goes to the breakers on the right side of the one and only panel. Again, to call it a sub panel could cause confusion as that would indicate a separate panel outside the main panel, as is done in residential applications. In our unit it's all the same panel, which is divvied up "back stage" in three sections.

And yes, with no 120 the inverter makes 120 and I am sure there is an internal relay which switches things over, and yes, that's all a transfer switch is, a multi pole relay.
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:50 PM   #22
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FYI, generator takes priority over Shore power.
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:52 PM   #23
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Thank you. I had a 50/50 shot at that and got it right......
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:20 PM   #24
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Has anybody got the AGS-N unit auto-starting the generator to run Air Conditioner?

While I have the attention of some experts on the Magnum Inverter and Generators, I'm interested in the answer to the following question:
Has anybody got their Magnum Inverter and AGS-N unit configured so that the generator automatically starts when it gets a signal that the roof AC should come on, and to auto-stop when the thermostat turns off the roof AC?

I spent a lot of time with the Sensata/Magnum tech reps and one of their local reps here in Calgary and we can't get this auto-start feature working on my Berk with a Magnum 2012 and ME-RC Remote control, and the AGS-N Auto Gen Start module that I have.

The data sheet on the AGS-N implies that you can automatically start the generator to run the roof AC. However, I've come to the conclusion that this only works with a Pigtail PT-1 or PT-2 adaptor, which goes to the roof AC unit. The pigtails are mentioned as "Available Accessories" for "starting on-demand applications." These are also discussed on page 29 of the ME-AGS-N owners manual. After downloading the ME-PT1 and PT2 manuals, I see that the PT1 is for Coleman AC units and the ME-PT2 works in conjunction with a Domestic/Duo-Therm kit 3109226.005.

So, I'm wondering if someone has done this installation or whether people get the generator to start automatically some other way.

–Gordon
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:44 PM   #25
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Sorry, no help from me. Haven't felt the urge to explore this feature yet. The only time I see it being a necessity is if you leave pets in the coach, and we don't as we don't want to see Pupper's Houdini skills again.

I will however be installing the BMK (Battery Monitoring Kit) soon. Have it sitting here, trying to work up the energy.
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Old 03-06-2017, 04:13 PM   #26
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I used the low voltage AGS all the time. Have also used it in case I lost Shore power.

Played with the temperature a little bit and then never got that to work. But I didn't try very hard.

I have red to set it to EXT Source if you're using the thermostat. And that is where I believe the jumper comes into play.

Have read that if you do not use the EXT source said it should read the temperature sensors and the motorhome.

I have the feeling either way, that it will not react immediately to the thermostat. Reading made me think that you had to sit and let the temperature go up in the coach before it would do anything.

But I'm just guessing at this point.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:25 PM   #27
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I used the low voltage AGS all the time. Have also used it in case I lost Shore power.

Played with the temperature a little bit and then never got that to work. But I didn't try very hard.

I have red to set it to EXT Source if you're using the thermostat. And that is where I believe the jumper comes into play.

Have read that if you do not use the EXT source said it should read the temperature sensors and the motorhome.

I have the feeling either way, that it will not react immediately to the thermostat. Reading made me think that you had to sit and let the temperature go up in the coach before it would do anything.

But I'm just guessing at this point.
From what I've read, you need to set it to EXT Source. The Pigtail goes to the front air conditioner and the kit is supposed to coordinate the AGS, generator and thermostat. Thus, the thermostat calls for the AC to come on, and the kit intercepts the message to start the generator first and then the AC.

The Magnum tech who is helping me is also a Dometic tech and he says that the thermostat connects to the front AC and the front AC talks to the back AC.

When you replace the source with the pigtail, you have to remove the temperature pigtail, so you can't set the AGS to start on the basis of temperature. But that was pretty pathetic because it was in 5 degree steps.

It is interesting how few people actually use this feature, because it is one of the most advertised features I've seen on our motorhomes: it is supposed to protect pets in an unattended RV on hot days, for example.

I'll let you all know of the success of this when I get the tech to help me do it when the weather thaws out.

–cheers, Gordon
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:01 AM   #28
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I went with Trojan T-105's awesome battery.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:47 PM   #29
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I went with Trojan T-105's awesome battery.
That's handy to know. They are midway between a Golf Cart battery and an L16, so I've been thinking of those as a good alternative.

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Old 03-29-2017, 07:55 PM   #30
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Thanks for all the info. I'm going to install the Sams Club GC2 since we are looking to get a new coach this summer.
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Old 07-11-2017, 11:07 AM   #31
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want to know how long does the L16 last. i have a 2014. but it was built in 2012 or 2013. the carger is on float charge but it say its charging 11 amp. been on shor power for 3 mo. and i have to add about 1 gallon of water every mo. do you think its time to change them??. let me know
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:08 AM   #32
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want to know how long does the L16 last. i have a 2014. but it was built in 2012 or 2013. the carger is on float charge but it say its charging 11 amp. been on shor power for 3 mo. and i have to add about 1 gallon of water every mo. do you think its time to change them??. let me know
That seems like a lot of water- but I'm not connected to shore power that long. It seems to me like your charge rate may be to high- and your boiling the battery.
Maybe a full timer could would have more info.

My coach is a 2012- I just put all new batteries in it. Went with interstate, could have saved money else where but they are top quality battery from a local shop.
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:00 AM   #33
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Agree with Dave-g on the water usage. I've had my coach a year now, plugged in the entire time I'm not driving it. I check the battery levels once a month, and have not used anywhere near a gallon total for all six since I've had it. I'm thinking it's overcharging and zapping your batteries.
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Old 07-12-2017, 11:20 AM   #34
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want to know how long does the L16 last. i have a 2014. but it was built in 2012 or 2013. the carger is on float charge but it say its charging 11 amp. been on shor power for 3 mo. and i have to add about 1 gallon of water every mo. do you think its time to change them??. let me know
Remember, it is a charger/converter in addition to an inverter. This means it supplies all your 12V loads in addition to your charge load. I think the panel is a little misleading there. So, with NOTHING 12V on, the Amps you see in the window when charging are, in theory, the amps going into the battery. If you have lights on, the radio, etc etc when checking you are seeing those loads too.

I too add quite a bit of water. Not sure if it's a gallon/month but it's certainly half that.

I would not change them until they start discharging at an unacceptable rate. This is only an issue when boon docking. If you do a lot of that you need fresh top notch batteries. If you only depend on battery power occasionally for short periods of time you can run them a lot longer.

I have in fact installed my BMK and need to take a few pictures then I'll add the write up to the blog.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:20 PM   #35
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You most likely have a bad cell in one of the batteries which causes it to charge all to high. Get a hydrometer to test the cells with, then you'll know if you need to replace or not. Mine is plugged in all the time with me in it, check batteries monthly and only have to add water once in three months.
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:22 AM   #36
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You most likely have a bad cell in one of the batteries which causes it to charge all to high. Get a hydrometer to test the cells with, then you'll know if you need to replace or not. Mine is plugged in all the time with me in it, check batteries monthly and only have to add water once in three months.

Yes, a hydrometer is a good tool to have.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:55 AM   #37
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AGM

Had some battery issues about a year ago and replaced our four house batteries with AGM-8AGC2 in October 2016. Went with AGM for the no/reduced corrosive fumes in the battery compartment and no maintenance. So far so good – love not having to monitor the water level – one less thing to check.
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:18 AM   #38
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yes 2 of the batteries was bad. now just float charge just 1 amp. with house lights on
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Old 09-09-2017, 04:14 PM   #39
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Remember, it is a charger/converter in addition to an inverter. This means it supplies all your 12V loads in addition to your charge load. I think the panel is a little misleading there. So, with NOTHING 12V on, the Amps you see in the window when charging are, in theory, the amps going into the battery. If you have lights on, the radio, etc etc when checking you are seeing those loads too.

I too add quite a bit of water. Not sure if it's a gallon/month but it's certainly half that.

I would not change them until they start discharging at an unacceptable rate. This is only an issue when boon docking. If you do a lot of that you need fresh top notch batteries. If you only depend on battery power occasionally for short periods of time you can run them a lot longer.

I have in fact installed my BMK and need to take a few pictures then I'll add the write up to the blog.
Read your EXCELLENT blog but still have a question. Just ordered the ME-BMK today and I'll have to run the telephone cable from the passenger side of the coach, just aft of the rear wheel where the house batteries are located to the drivers side of the coach where the Magnum inverter is located. Any hints on how to fish the cable one side to the other?
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Old 09-09-2017, 05:16 PM   #40
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Read your EXCELLENT blog but still have a question. Just ordered the ME-BMK today and I'll have to run the telephone cable from the passenger side of the coach, just aft of the rear wheel where the house batteries are located to the drivers side of the coach where the Magnum inverter is located. Any hints on how to fish the cable one side to the other?


Is the magnum a charger too?
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