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Old 10-05-2014, 01:30 PM   #1
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Hydraulic issues with slide and jacks

Had a problem where the dinette slide is being pushed out after all jacks and kitchen slide are retracted. The dinette slide would start coming out after driving down the highway. Sometimes as much as a foot. After pulling over and retracting the slide and putting the slide locks on (which I have never had to use before) I realized that the slide was actually being pushed out under pressure of the hydraulic system. It pushed so hard it broke the trim.
I have since taken it for warranty work at camping world. They talked to FR and decided it was probAbly a bad valve. New valve sent. Technicians removed old valve and found metal shaving in the valve and fluid. Now waiting for whole new pump and manifold system.

Glad it's under warranty. Hope this resolves the problem.


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Old 10-05-2014, 06:24 PM   #2
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I am starting to have this problem on my 2012 390BH 60. I hope this is not going to be an other problem like the power step.
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Old 10-05-2014, 06:48 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by lefaivre View Post
I am starting to have this problem on my 2012 390BH 60. I hope this is not going to be an other problem like the power step.
Suggest if you are having similar mal operation as above, you should have it checked out and repaired. If the embedded metal chips in the oil will eventually damage not only the pump but all the piston rods as well. Slides and jacks included. The step repairs was cheap and easy by comparison.
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:13 PM   #4
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Good advice VinceU


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:41 PM   #5
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Wow! What a timely topic. I have a 2012 390BH with the same problem where the dinette slide will even come out a couple inches when setting idle.
I have done some of my own diagnosing along with the help of Jamie fro Equalizer Systems. We proved the valve at the hydraulic pump to be good and is now suspect the hydraulic cylinder, namely Equalizer Systems part # 2368 that is allowing what is called "bypass", which lessens its holding power.

From my snooping around in the cargo compartment, I may have found why this particular cylinder goes bad. I believe there are some application design issues or installation issues. I found possible four issues.The hydraulic piston naturally is meant to go in and out as directed by the hydraulic pump. However, the dinette slide also goes up and down (a small amount) when the slide goes in or out. One end of the hydraulic cylinder is attached to the motorhome's chassis, while the other end is attached to the slide-out. The end attached to the slide-out goes up and down.

Possible Issue #1: These attachments are not hinged and therefore the up and down motion imposes some bending force to the shaft. Not good, this can wear the piston seal.

Possible Issue #2: The dinette slide is the longest and its hydraulic cylinder passes over the Freightliner longitudinal beam. It appears to me that when the slide-out goes out and down, it forces the cylinder to touch and attempts to bend it. Even putting a little ripple into the cylinder will cause it to bypass. This may be why FR changed the cylinder from 1.5: diameter to 1.375", to allow some clearance. See the note for part 2368......
http://equalizersystems.com/files/sh...inder%20ID.pdf

Possible Issue #3: When the slide-out is all the way in, the cylinder's rod goes upward. Right above it, crosses the timing rod. They do not want to touch. FR placed a plastic block mounted to the frame to prevent the rod from touching the timing shaft. This is good in a way, but in my RV the rod was pressing un-mercy against the cylinder's ram rod. I had to file some plastic away. This too, placed a bending torque on the ram rod and wear to the cylinder's seal.

Possible Issue #4: When the slide-out is all the way out, the ram rod at the slide attachment is at its lowest elevation. Right where the rod passes through an access passage in the side of the motorhome (there is a brush seal there), it must not rub on the siding of the motorhome. Mine did not, but it is ever so close.

If the hydraulic piston only went in and out, that would be great; but because the attachment of the ram rod at the slide goes up and down, it makes for great difficulty in getting the very long cylinder and rod to traverse over beams and under the timing rod.

Back to why I said "What a Timely Topic", is because I have an appointment with a garage to replace the hydraulic cylinder and anti-creep valve on Oct 15th. I will let you know how I make out.

I sure hope that you all did not fall asleep on this on.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:58 PM   #6
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I will let everyone now what the out come is. Camping world should of received the pump and manifold system today and should start the replacement tomorrow.

I-RV, I noticed the up/down movement but didn't see it rubbing anywhere or flexing the shaft. The technician that replaced the bypass valve has talked to equalizer many times and it was equalizer's suggestion to send the replacement. If this doesn't work I will go there and look at the issues you described very closely.




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Old 10-08-2014, 08:21 PM   #7
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Hank
As you may know from my previous posts I went through living hell with this slide system. Having to have personally rebuild the timing shaft I noticed many of your observations. Since there are no rollers raising and lowering the floor when fully extended it creates a huge amount of drag coming up and over the nylons angled slide plates. This is what gives a flat floor when fully extended. I have sprayed some dry lubricant on these plates and it seems to make the initial stress on the retraction of the slide to be less.

I have also noticed that when the slide is fully in the top is tight against the coach while the bottom sticks out about 1/2 inch. I have played with the 2 mechanical stop bolts mounted to the frame and that does not seem to have any effect. Have you observed similar on your coach. It seems to me to be something which appears not adjustable on the height of the inside set of nylon slide blocks. What are your thoughts? Fortunately since.my fiasco back in June the slide has been working fine. I hope I am no jinxing myself. Let me know if you learn anything further about that slide

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Old 10-09-2014, 07:00 AM   #8
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Marty
Yes, my left slide sticks out more at the bottom when retracted. I remember your thread, was it your left or right slide?
Hank


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Old 10-09-2014, 07:49 AM   #9
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Hank:
It was the sofa/dinette slide that is gave me all the problems and the bottom sticks out equally on both sides about 1/2 inch
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:59 PM   #10
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I'm still waiting for equalizer to sent the parts. Unbelievable. Mine has been at camping world almost 1 1/2 months.


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Old 10-27-2014, 06:55 PM   #11
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I'm still waiting for equalizer to sent the parts. Unbelievable. Mine has been at camping world almost 1 1/2 months.


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As I previously mentioned, my dinette slide was creeping out. I took it into Risco RV on Oct 15th, and they replaced the hydraulic cylinder and anti-creep valve. They finished on the 24th. The job ran $1,116 and cost me out of pocket $367. This was due to a $200 deductible and that the extended warranty does not cover shipping cost and of course the shop needs more hours then the insurance allows - LOL

Also as I previously mentioned there is possible problems that cause the 30" slide to more prevalently become defective then the less deeper slides.

Hope that you get your parts by the first snow fall.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:58 PM   #12
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Ok, this is getting old. camping world has had my RV since August and still not fixed. They replaced the manifold part of the hydraulic unit and a couple of check valves. The slide is still pushing its tell back out.

I'm calling FR tomorrow. It has been in shop for 2.5 months now and no fix in site.

Lemon???? Should I ask for a extended additional warranty time? It's going to snowing here in Ohio and my season will be over until March. I missed the whole fall camping season.

Frustrated.


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:00 PM   #13
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At least the Toad is fun to drive that I bought for this!!!


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:37 PM   #14
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Did you get them to change the cylindar? Until they FINALLY changed the cylindar on my RV the slide kept creeping out. A damaged cylindar, scratch, paint on shaft etc. can cause blow-by allowing the slide to creep. Also the replacement cylindar is larger in diameter than many of the original cylindars. I hope this helps.


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:42 PM   #15
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Did you get them to change the cylindar? Until they FINALLY changed the cylindar on my RV the slide kept creeping out. A damaged cylindar, scratch, paint on shaft etc. can cause blow-by allowing the slide to creep. Also the replacement cylindar is larger in diameter than many of the original cylindars. I hope this helps.


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They claim that they did and now they have sent a second replacement cylinder to see if that helps. That was supposed to be overnighted to them Wednesday. They haven't received it yet. They say that even if comes in tomorrow and it fixes the problem it probably won't be fixed until Monday. On a positive note, they winterized it for free. Something I would never pay to have done.

I will keep everyone posted.



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Old 11-07-2014, 12:20 AM   #16
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Glen I feel your pain. 2 weeks would drive me nuts let alone 2.4 months. You are so close the Elkhart can't you just bring it to them and get it fixed correctly and quickly?



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Old 11-07-2014, 12:22 AM   #17
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Phil, that's what I am going to talk to Randy about tomorrow. They could of fixed it in a few days at the most.

I'll let you know how the conversation goes tomorrow.


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