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Old 11-07-2014, 12:51 AM   #21
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Ok... Well the hydraulic leak is still there. I noticed a new stain on the concrete and looked to investigate.

Above the pump/reservoir there is a manifold where on the top there are numerous lines connected that obviously go to the various hydraulics on the rig. On the left side of that manifold block there are two black hex bolts that are screwed into the manifold. I am not sure what their purpose is but on one of them It is leaking fluid. I used an allen wrench on it and it was already tight so I didnt try to overtighten it.

What are those bolts for? Is there an o-ring behind it? I'll try my best to grab a photo tomorrow of the bolts I'm talking about. I asked the wife to retract all on our jacks and as soon as she did I saw fluid run down the manifold block from behind one of the bolts. I wiped it down and asked her to do it a few more times but I didn't see it come out again. Its leaking while we are sitting here but I am not certain it leaks from behind that bolt when we are not actively using the hydraulics. I wiped down the side of the manifold block and around the bolt so I can see how it looks in the morning.
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Old 11-07-2014, 08:43 AM   #22
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Hi Craig, Finally made it home from our 4 month trip. Can't wait to go again. How was the rally in Texas? I think we are going to head for the keys in January. Still trying to sell our house with no luck yet. Going to have an estate sale to raise some capital and clean out the house a bit. Hope you are well. Frank
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:17 AM   #23
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Hi Frank - sent PM


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Old 11-07-2014, 11:06 PM   #24
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Any insight anyone can share on my last comment?


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Old 11-07-2014, 11:09 PM   #25
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Jake I looked at mine today, I think I'm confused as to which bolts you are talking about. I have two (look like some type of quick connects) on the end of my block. Can you snap a pic and post what you are talking about?
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:47 PM   #26
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:49 PM   #27
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The bolt in B1 is where I saw fluid come out and a trail of fluid from it that collects at the bottom of the block and eventually drips off the block under the front corner. You can see a bit built up at the front corner. It's hard to see in the pic but there was a very clear trail coming from the bolt under B1.


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Old 11-07-2014, 11:50 PM   #28
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That is in the left side of the block on the same side the reservoir is on.


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Old 11-08-2014, 05:56 AM   #29
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I believe b1 is a port plug. I believe it should have a o-ring under it. If it was loose the ring could be blown out. All the fittings attached to the manifold should have o-rings.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:11 AM   #30
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I don't think it is a bolt I think it is a plug if you remove it it will have an o ring on it replace the o ring and your leak should stop. This is a SAE O RING plug and takes an o ring sized specifically for it .what you want to ask for is an sae boss o ring cant tell by the picture but I would say it is either a size -02 or -04 .
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:18 AM   #31
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The reservoir is 1/2 full so I need to put fluid in it until I get home. Do I just use ATF fluid?


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Old 11-08-2014, 10:40 AM   #32
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I don't remember if it is ATF, others can confirm. Are your slides in or out and are you levelers up or down? The level in the reservoir is dependent on these conditions. You do not want to over fill the reservoir, as you will have a bigger mess (don't ask me how I know that). The following website may help: http://equalizersystems.com/files/sh...tion_Guide.pdf. There are also other guides on the www.equalizersystems.com site under support. Hope this helps! Craig


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Old 11-08-2014, 10:44 AM   #33
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Fill the reservoir fully with Dexron Transmission fluid. This is the same fluid used in GM vehicles.


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Old 11-08-2014, 10:48 AM   #34
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Awesome thanks! I had the slides in and Jacks up and it's about 1/2 full so need to get some fluid in there! Gonna have a mess to clean up when I get home lol.


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Old 11-08-2014, 10:48 AM   #35
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And thanks for the PDF.. Super helpful!


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Old 11-08-2014, 10:52 AM   #36
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Fill the reservoir fully with Dexron Transmission fluid. This is the same fluid used in GM vehicles.


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But don't overfill it. There should be a line on the tank showing where to fill it to.
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:05 AM   #37
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When all slides are in and jacks are up... When I unscrew that plug to replace the oring... Is it going to be under any pressure and spray fluid? I may just find a camping world on the way home and repair in the parking lot .. Unless it's gonna make a mess.


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Old 11-08-2014, 11:08 AM   #38
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When all slides are in and jacks are up... When I unscrew that plug to replace the oring... Is it going to be under any pressure and spray fluid? I may just find a camping world on the way home and repair in the parking lot .. Unless it's gonna make a mess.


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Ah it's just Camping World don't worry they are mess anyway.....
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:57 PM   #39
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Hank, Not sure about testing at the top of a grade, but when Ed (wnytaxman) took his "B" endorsement driving test for New York State, the Examiner told him he should run a static test on the air brakes before any trips. Craig


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Running a full static test at the start of every DAY is what the regs call for, IIRC. However, I know of NO driver that does more than check for 90-100+ lbs of pressure, before driving off (that's inside the cab.... outside a good driver will check slack adjusters, etc).

As far as top of steep grade checks, I was never taught what to do. If a driver does stop (most do not) he should check for overheated/smoking brakes, I'd guess.

When I drove there were almost no hills in the whole country that I could not descend SAFELY by down shifting and using the jake brake; it's just that doing it that way is much slower than using the brakes some. Also if raining or other bad traction conditions, DON'T do it, as you're only braking on one axle out of five.

Old drivers saying: You can descend a hill to slowly over and over; you can only descend a hill to fast ONCE.

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Old 11-27-2014, 12:38 AM   #40
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New oring... Leak fixed! Thanks everyone!


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