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Old 11-30-2015, 03:20 PM   #21
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No Glenn, not those. They are referring to the cord male and female ends. The ones that twist to lock together.
I have always referred to those as wire nuts too, I guess I need to figure out what "twist connectors" you guys are referring to. Thanks!

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Old 11-30-2015, 04:36 PM   #22
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Subsailor, the twist type connector like you would find on a dryer, stove, welder. One that would not pull apart. Nice toy , I have a 32 3 window.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:22 PM   #23
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For those using wire nuts (THOSE "twist connectors") I would recommend you tape the heck out of them (around the wire nut and down along the wires) after installation with vinyl electrical tape. In theory wire nuts should not be used in a mobile or high vibration application as they can work loose, but taping eliminates that possibility. Forest River uses them (for example where my #6 power cord was spliced into the #6 stranded wire going to the power distribution panel) but taped them so it's all good. I did the same thing where I spliced into the leads coming from my generator to run over to the transfer switch.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:31 PM   #24
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Nice blue wire nuts though !!
That's what you need for #6 wire... the big honkin' blue ones. I bought a pack at the home center and used three... probably never use the rest of them...
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:38 PM   #25
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Looks just like my install Joe.
Please, please, please, Berkshire's run a 50 amp system. If you don't have 50 amps don't post systems that are less. Somebody can get hurt if a Berk owner tried to do what that picture with the romex showed!


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Old 11-30-2015, 05:48 PM   #26
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Looks just like my install Joe.
Please, please, please, Berkshire's run a 50 amp system. If you don't have 50 amps don't post systems that are less. Somebody can get hurt if a Berk owner tried to do what that picture with the romex showed!


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Old 11-30-2015, 06:14 PM   #27
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I thought the same thing Subsailor... that I'd put it after the transfer switch to protect the coach from either shore power or generator power issues... I mean the thing even shuts down if the line frequency goes out of tolerance... in North America, at least, that's NEVER going to happen on shore power. Also, I figured the current monitoring feature would be handy to control the load if running on the generator. But the guys here convinced me to do it like they've advised you - before, so as to protect the transfer switch as well.

If you're interested, here are a couple of photos of my installation in my Coachmen Pursuit...

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d-94602-3.html

Nice coach and even nicer work. I envy people who make it "look" simple. If it was truly simple, I could do it!!
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:18 PM   #28
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Subsailor, the twist type connector like you would find on a dryer, stove, welder. One that would not pull apart. Nice toy , I have a 32 3 window.

32 Ford 3 window, dream since I was 14 and reading "Hot Rod". Long time ago.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:45 PM   #29
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:51 PM   #30
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One lucky man.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:06 AM   #31
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pic one is a MARR connector
pic 2 is an L6 - 30 amp twist connector

you need 2 female and 2 male of the second pics
unless you have a 50 amp system on the TT - then you need tehe 50 amp twists.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:11 AM   #32
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if you look in pic one above (earleir post) you will see a small brass lug with screw. Get this type... take teh wires and twist them and then insert the twisted bared copper into the brass lug and tighten the scres. they won't work loose.
Get a can of liquid pvc tape (Harbour Freght had it in red and black) and coat the top of the plastic cap once inserted and tightened finger tight
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:18 AM   #33
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Nice coach and even nicer work. I envy people who make it "look" simple. If it was truly simple, I could do it!!
Thanks pdqparalegal1... my son & I do a lot of home improvement / rehab work together... plumbing, electrical, framing, roofing, siding, finish carpentry, you name it we do it... all as more of a hobby than anything else (we both have day jobs). I taught him everything I know about "handyman stuff" about 20 years ago and now he's the teacher and I'm the student. This is what we both do for fun, so the MH is just another "house" to play with... it just happens to have wheels.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:24 AM   #34
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always gr8 to hear success stories from individuals who desire to learn.
in Sept 2013 i had to apply all the carpentry skills that both my father and now my son had taught me when we had to tear the second floor off our home and rebuild it from what ended up to be a 100,000 venture.

like many of us on here we have centuries of experience in plumping, electircal, mainaining etc. the things we enjoy using.

I belong to another forum as well and when asking for pointers or corrections to my decision compass, I've gotten some very condesending remarks.
never from this group though.

love to see everyone at least offering to solve issues or concerns - even if some ideas are just plain funny.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:40 AM   #35
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We're all here to learn from each other... no one has all the answers and no matter how good one is at something there's always something new to learn. This past summer my son & I replaced the central a/c in our house - new air handler, condensing unit, line set, the works. Something we previously had no experience with, but we learned and it was fun (for the most part). Daughter-in-law's brother-in-law is a union pipefitter who does commercial HVAC and has the refrigerant tools and tickets so he did the final start-up but we did all the rest. Currently we're working on a total rehab of a 100+ year old farm house... not a flip, a complete gut and rebuild. Done with the outside (new windows throughout, vinyl siding and aluminum trim) and now working on the inside: plumbing (pipes had frozen), electrical, ductwork, blown-in insulation, then rock (which we WILL subcontract). What was supposed to be a 2 year job working weekends has morphed into about a four year job but we'll be done at some point, and when it finally sells I'll write a check to pay off the Pursuit. So it's not all fun and games... there's a profit motive as well.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:51 AM   #36
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I've always called the "wire nuts" Marrette's
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:09 AM   #37
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They're wire nuts to me also, but there should be no need to use them and I wouldn't on a power supply. All connections should be a screw down connections. The picture of the #10 romex "may" be ok for a 30amp system, but I would use #8 wire. As stated, 50 amp needs #6 wire. Also, if you are going to install the remote monitor in the basement and not inside the coach, save yourself some money and get the unit that has the monitor built in. That's what I'm doing.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:13 AM   #38
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They're wire nuts to me also, but there should be no need to use them and I wouldn't on a power supply. All connections should be a screw down connections. The picture of the #10 romex "may" be ok for a 30amp system, but I would use #8 wire. As stated, 50 amp needs #6 wire. Also, if you are going to install the remote monitor in the basement and not inside the coach, save yourself some money and get the unit that has the monitor built in. That's what I'm doing.
My installation included adding an automatic transfer switch so I had to remove the existing 50A generator outlet in my basement compartment and connect to the pigtail leads from the generator... this is where I had to use (well taped) wire nuts.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:17 AM   #39
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For those using wire nuts (THOSE "twist connectors") I would recommend you tape the heck out of them (around the wire nut and down along the wires) after installation with vinyl electrical tape. In theory wire nuts should not be used in a mobile or high vibration application as they can work loose, but taping eliminates that possibility. Forest River uses them (for example where my #6 power cord was spliced into the #6 stranded wire going to the power distribution panel) but taped them so it's all good. I did the same thing where I spliced into the leads coming from my generator to run over to the transfer switch.
Even better (IMHO) Use this. Got the idea from a landscaper who was installing a irrigation system next door. Makes the wires completely impervious to weather and coming undone from vibration
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:22 AM   #40
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Even better (IMHO) Use this. Got the idea from a landscaper who was installing a irrigation system next door. Makes the wires completely impervious to weather and coming undone from vibration
Definitely better... just make sure you're never going to want to take it apart before you use that stuff.

(if need be you can always cut the wires to remove the splice... another reason to leave plenty of service loop)
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