John,
here is a manual on the Equalizer hydraulic pump. I also have some pages on the location of the overrides and how to perform the manual override. Hope that helps you out.
I still haven't seen what the voltage is at the pump motor? All this talk about breakers is worthless if there is voltage at the motor. And alternately, all the discussion about replacing the pump motor is shooting from the hip if there is no voltage.
If there IS voltage...
Have you tried taping gently on the pump motor housing with a mallet?
You may have a stuck brush in the motor.
__________________
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I still haven't seen what the voltage is at the pump motor? All this talk about breakers is worthless if there is voltage at the motor. And alternately, all the discussion about replacing the pump motor is shooting from the hip if there is no voltage.
If there IS voltage...
Have you tried taping gently on the pump motor housing with a mallet?
You may have a stuck brush in the motor.
The current voltage at the pump motor is 14.1. You are right that the breaker to the jack pump would not be tripped if there is voltage to the pump motor. However, I still want to know where the breaker is for future purposes, including replacing the pump motor. As I will mention in a response to a separate post, I still do not see any manual override for this pump and will likely replace it to make sure I have a working, accessible override.
I have not tried gently tapping the pump motor housing with a mallet to see if that could loosen up a stuck brush in the motor. I tend to live my life with a “nothing succeeds like excess” approach, so I will save even gentle tapping for a last resort.
Thanks for your response.
__________________
John Stanis
SAM - our 2010 Berkshire 390BH
Adams - our 2014 Honda C-RV
John,
here is a manual on the Equalizer hydraulic pump. I also have some pages on the location of the overrides and how to perform the manual override. Hope that helps you out.
Thank you for your post and your time on the phone. I have reviewed the operators manual and manual override schematic that you provided, along with others that I previously found online. Obviously there are some minor differences in my setup vs. this manual and schematic, such the location of the pump system and the number of valves, as my rig has two hydraulic slides as well as the four jacks.
I easily see the two red valves (directional and override). However, I still am not seeing a hand pump collar (or a hand pump handle) or the manual override coupler that I have seen in other manuals and schematics. Below are some pictures that are hopefully clearer on this point than what I posted earlier. (Sorry that some insist on being sideways.) Perhaps someone can see what I cannot. My wife says I am good at missing things that are right in front of me.
__________________
John Stanis
SAM - our 2010 Berkshire 390BH
Adams - our 2014 Honda C-RV
First, let me say that I am not familiar with this hydraulic system, and I have also not seen the electrical schematics for this, so I may be all wet. That said, a couple of observations from your pictures.
1. In the first picture there is a port labeled HP-1 that is covered by a hex plug. This is probably where the hand pump should be mounted, so your assessment that there is no hand pump seems logical. Changing the pump motor will likely not fix this, unless you are going to change out the entire valve and distro block assembly as well.
2. It appears that this pump motor has a contactor relay - the small cylindrical module with the large gauge red wire attached in the first photo. Resembles the starter solenoid from an automobile starter motor. This isolates your control pad logic from the high current of the pump motor.
You say that the motor has 14.1v... is that from the red wire (contactor) to ground or at the pump motor terminal (on the side of the motor) to ground? If the contactor actuates (large relay), you should hear a loud click or clack sound. If this is happening when you activate the control but the motor does not spin, likely a motor/pump problem. If the contactor relay is never energizing, you either have a control issue or a bad contactor relay.
You should be able to manually energize the contactor by applying battery voltage to the small terminal at the bottom (2nd picture, wire with yellow insulator). If applying voltage here allows the contactor to energize and the pump motor to spin, I would start searching for a control issue.
First, let me say that I am not familiar with this hydraulic system, and I have also not seen the electrical schematics for this, so I may be all wet. That said, a couple of observations from your pictures.
1. In the first picture there is a port labeled HP-1 that is covered by a hex plug. This is probably where the hand pump should be mounted, so your assessment that there is no hand pump seems logical. Changing the pump motor will likely not fix this, unless you are going to change out the entire valve and distro block assembly as well.
2. It appears that this pump motor has a contactor relay - the small cylindrical module with the large gauge red wire attached in the first photo. Resembles the starter solenoid from an automobile starter motor. This isolates your control pad logic from the high current of the pump motor.
You say that the motor has 14.1v... is that from the red wire (contactor) to ground or at the pump motor terminal (on the side of the motor) to ground? If the contactor actuates (large relay), you should hear a loud click or clack sound. If this is happening when you activate the control but the motor does not spin, likely a motor/pump problem. If the contactor relay is never energizing, you either have a control issue or a bad contactor relay.
You should be able to manually energize the contactor by applying battery voltage to the small terminal at the bottom (2nd picture, wire with yellow insulator). If applying voltage here allows the contactor to energize and the pump motor to spin, I would start searching for a control issue.
You are correct. HP1 is the hand pump port. Fortunately, according to Equalizer, the plug can be removed and the hand pump can be attached afterward.
The 14.1 was from the red wire to ground. There is total silence at the pump when the control is activated.
I will check on the other points you raised when the weather clears up in a couple days. Thanks!
Linear Mode
