RV Garagemahal

[MightyOaks]

Hey guys, I am in the middle of designing a shop to park the rig (2014 - 390BH) when not in use (and a few other items) and am looking for both your top grade "must have" built in conveniences and crazy "nice to have" ideas. What would you absolutely not go without? There is a budget, but a few add ons might be squeezed into the budget. Current dimensions are 36' x 48' with 16' ceiling, concrete floor and 2 - 12' (W) x 14' (H) OH doors. In a wintery climate here so will be insulated with heat. Thanks for the ideas - cheers!


2014 Berkshire 390BH

[jcowles3]

Mr keg? Just saying... Dart board too!


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[conceptumator]

My background is design/build contracting and If I was doing this:

1. Definitely want shore power for the unit.
2. Epoxy finish on the floor (about $3 per sqft) will brighten up the whole place and is a great upgrade
3. Put in a drain trench down the middle and have water supply for a pressure washer system
4. Invest in the Big Ass brand LED lights; worth the money
5. By 16' ceiling I assume you mean a dropped ceiling below the roof framing. Might consider leaving framing exposed. Save money, easier to do lighting, etc. also gives you enough headroom to let you walk on the roof of the RV
6. Thicken the floor slab out at the leveling jacks so you can run them down if you want.
7. Get the ventilation right, but also consider space heating, just enough to stay about 40F and not worry about freezing.

Hope that helps. Sounds like a nice building. Wish I could do that. Good luck!




Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
2015 Legacy SR340 360RB with 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Gigi, Poppy and Sadie the Jack Russell (all 14 lbs of her)

[lefaivre]

If possible, I would concider a trench of some some sort that would allow easy access below the Genset and engine.

Accommodate for an exhaust to be vented out through the door when closed.

Well stocked tool chest

[Cypressloser]

Windows

[conceptumator]

I forgot to list a sanitary connection so you can dump the tanks while in the garage. Also, of course, water source.

[Paulie Boy]

I would have a hydronic heating element in the entire concrete slab. An 8" thick slab with a plastic sheet as a moisture barrier, #5 rebar on 6" centers 2 inches off the substrate and WWF flat mats on top pulled to within an inch of the final finished surface. Make sure that the concrete has a "burn" finish. That's where I would start.


Paul
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[R3Jones]

Along with the other suggestions I would add a small air compressor. Also, I park mine in a similar garage and found lighting is always inadequate at night (and sometimes during an overcast day too). The rig always casts shadows where I'm working. When installing overhead lighting be deliberate with placement for viewing the rig on each side separately. Another nicety would be uplights that are embedded within the slab that are installed under the rig parking spot. It would be little a overkill but i would've used lights like that all the time. I always have to drag work lights under the rig. Good luck! Sounds fun.


-R.Jones
Nitro 31FQSL

[Neanderthal]

2 overhead doors so I can rent a spot from you for the winter.

[boowho]

"Pit" in the floor to do oil changes an other maintenance would be on the TOP of my list. Other ideas as mentioned earlier are all good suggestions, depending upon your budget.

Of course, if your budget is "the sky is the limit", then a full AUTOMATIC wash rack (brushes, sprays, blow dryer, etc) would be quite nice.

Boowho??

[silver]

How a corner for a lounge so you have a place to relax between working on the rig in the winter. Also cable TV line. Tool bench of course.

[5456Mich]

If you're going to have an access to dump tanks inside you may as well also go with a min. of a 1/2 bath and plumb everything to a tank with appropriate size field.

[outloud]

I also have a garage to put my RV in just in case we have to stay in the winter. It has a 6" reinforced with rebar and fiberglass in concrete. Have water and electricity with sewer. The building is 20x50 with a 14 high door. My lights are mounted on the side top and bottom all LEDs big enough to extend my sides. Did most my self and friends. It's hooked to my car garage and heated with a pellet stove. It works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[TwiceTheIce]

I would not use overhead doors. If they are open, you will not have access to the roof. Use a commercial roll-up. It will not lower your clearance. I use 14x14 doors in my toy shop

[jmgllt]

Following

[Loraura]

Full hook ups (W/E/S)!

[wbdavey]

Originally Posted by TwiceTheIce

I would not use overhead doors. If they are open, you will not have access to the roof. Use a commercial roll-up. It will not lower your clearance. I use 14x14 doors in my toy shop

Not only that, but the overhead doors will also block a lot of ceiling lights. Just me, but I'd rather have one really big door than 2 smaller doors.

[BigJohnD]

Maybe I'll post pictures of ours on here at some point. 6000 square feet, 7 garage doors (2 are 12x14 for RV's), apartment (complete with AC, washer/dryer kitchenette, full bath and shower), welding shop, wood shop, 50/30/20 plus sewer and on the list goes. Main building is 40x60, 18' at the eves, and the shop extends back and sideways to complete the rest. Personally, I wouldn't go any lower than the 18' at the eves. Reason? Standing on top of a motorhome or fifth wheel while inside. Nothing like being able to wash your rig indoors when it's too hot, or cold.

[BigJohnD]

X2 on the roll up doors like wbdavey mentioned. Overheads block light and take up too much room.

[MightyOaks]

As always, this crew never disappoints with the willingness to share your finest tips, learnings, and ideas. You are also good at spending my money :-). I wish I could include everyone of the ideas but I am definitely employing several. If any of you have photos to share, they would be great for visual inspiration.


2014 Berkshire 390BH