Safe-T Plus + Bilsteins

[shepardmike]

I just drove back from the shop that installed the referenced title components and I had to rush in and post this to the forum. First, let me be clear, I am no way affiliated with Safe-T or Bilstein. I have followed this topic on this forum and was on the fence at first. My wife complained about the ride in the wind and when very fast trucks were passing us. So pulled the trigger based on recommendations from folks on this forum. The ride is so much better. The shocks alone were a huge improvement from the FL stock shocks. The freeway handling is amazing know. The shop also did an alignment which after seeing the before and after numbers it really needed it. Anyways, if there folks out there on the fence, I highly recommend doing this.

2019 34QS
Links:
https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index...8&mode=results
(My rig was really manufactured in 2018)
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-T-Plus-S.../dp/B003VASKC6

[Inlineskater67]

I have the same MH as you. I have been considering the Safe-T Plus. I personally think the ride is okay, could just use a little sway control. Do I dare ask what it cost you?

[shepardmike]

Parts and labor = $1,700

[StanNSandi]

Did you do the front and rear shocks or just the front? I am also looking at the either SafeT plus or Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer. Both can be installed by myself but the relflex is about 300 dollars less expensive and seems to also have good reviews.

[shepardmike]

I did front and rear. I didn't have a torque wrench that went that high to install myself.

[StanNSandi]

On the link for the safeT plus there were also the brackets. Did you order those brackets as well that were part of the package? I know there are different brackets depending on the chassis. Thanks so much. I think i am going to take your lead and get this brand. Too many good reviews.

[shepardmike]

Yes, I ordered the brackets separately and brought them to the install shop (Tampa Spring)

[cwbrewer]

I too was very unhappy with my ride so I added the safe-t plus, Koni shocks & Supersteer Steering Bellcrank. Made a world of difference.



https://www.brazelsrv.com/Freightlin...on-Upgrade-Kit

[gordonsick]

I’ve installed the Bilstein’s and the SafeTPlus myself on my 2915 34QS, so let me offer some observations.

First, I endorse both systems. They work separately, and either alone is a good installation.

Second, although the Bilstein shocks claim that the mounting bolts need to be torqued to spec, the nuts on my mounting bolts are self-locking, so that they won’t come loose, even if not torqued up. The load on the bolts is a shear load (cutting action on the bolt), so the bolt and nut threads provide absolutely no strength to that connection. The only reason to tighten the bolt is to make sure the nut doesn’t loosen and fall off. But, since it is self-locking, this won’t happen.

Third, installing the Bilsteins was tricky because they are nitrogen charged mono tube shocks. (The OEM Sachs shock are not gas charged). This means that you have to find a way to fight the tendency of the shock to fully expand while you are trying to insert the mounting bolts. I think I used a different strategy on each of the 4 shocks. It might have been easier to jack up the wheels and remove them to get better access to the shocks. I didn’t do this, but I do have all the torque tools to R&R the wheels.

Fourth, I installed the Trim unit from Henderson’s SuperSteer on the SafeTPlus system. This allows me to reset the Trim alignment of the SafeTPlus system to allow me to counteract road camber and cross winds while I’m driving. I really endorse this system.

Fifth, installing the Henderson Trim Unit on the Freightliner XCR tie rod was tricky because the fuel tank is very close to the tie rod, leaving very little room for the SafeTPlus. As I recall, this would also be problematic with the SafeTPlus system even without the trim unit. I had correspondence with Henderson’s and they sent me an alternative mounting system that allowed me to do the installation. I gave them a lot of feedback and they might have revised their instructions. I think I made a post of this and I’ll look up the link to put in my next post.

Sixth, since Freightliner is sometimes mounting the fuel tank very close to the tie rod, there is a risk that the SafeTPlus assembly will rub on the fuel tank when the suspension and steering go through their full ranges of travel. So, no matter who did the installation, go back and examine it after a few miles of travel to see whether the paint is rubbing off. Adjust as necessary. You need to loosen the U-bolts that hold the Safe-T-Plus onto the tie rod and rotate it a little bit to optimize clearance.

—Gordon

[gordonsick]

My post on installing the SafeTPlus and Trim unit is at https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...it-170436.html
—Gordon

[feedfold]

I just had Safe T Plus replace my 30k mile FL bell crank with Super Steer and then we test drove MH to also reset the Plus. Totally better handling now. I replaced the shocks 2 years ago with Bilstiens after I had the Plus installed by Safe T Plus.
I was trying to understand why the FL bell crank was not doing the job anymore because it seem to be fine until I hit that 25k mile mark. So they gave a quick explanation about the internal design and materials inside the housing.
My understanding of what the tech said!
Basically the bell crank shaft doesn't turn that much because you are driving straight ahead most of the time. So then that sweet spot of driving straight ahead on steering(small area on the shaft and bearings in bell crank) gets worked constantly and then begins to wear out causing driver fatigue(fighting to wheel).

[feedfold]

2016 Berkshire 34QS
John Dickman

[Inlineskater67]

Originally Posted by shepardmike

I just drove back from the shop that installed the referenced title components and I had to rush in and post this to the forum. First, let me be clear, I am no way affiliated with Safe-T or Bilstein. I have followed this topic on this forum and was on the fence at first. My wife complained about the ride in the wind and when very fast trucks were passing us. So pulled the trigger based on recommendations from folks on this forum. The ride is so much better. The shocks alone were a huge improvement from the FL stock shocks. The freeway handling is amazing know. The shop also did an alignment which after seeing the before and after numbers it really needed it. Anyways, if there folks out there on the fence, I highly recommend doing this.

2019 34QS
Links:
https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index...8&mode=results
(My rig was really manufactured in 2018)
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-T-Plus-S.../dp/B003VASKC6

Shepardmike, can you tell me what the part number was for the bracket that you ordered separately. I bought a used on that is rbk18, tried to have it put on at a local diesel truck place and when we lowered it the bracket bent.

[shepardmike]

Ultra RV Products
3912 Harrison Ave.
Centralia, Wa. 98531
Store Hours: Mon - Fri / 7am - 4:00pm PST
help@ultrarvproducts.com
Telephone: 800-417-4559
Fax: 360-736-9497
Email: support@ultrarvproducts.com
URL: https://www.ultrarvproducts.com


1 x F-143K3 - Safe-T-Plus Mounting Bracket Kit F143K3

[RKNOLA]

Here is the Amazon ordering link for the Bell Crank 1100SS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...G7gDBU08p13Bx4

[gordonsick]

Originally Posted by feedfold

I just had Safe T Plus replace my 30k mile FL bell crank with Super Steer and then we test drove MH to also reset the Plus. Totally better handling now. I replaced the shocks 2 years ago with Bilstiens after I had the Plus installed by Safe T Plus.
I was trying to understand why the FL bell crank was not doing the job anymore because it seem to be fine until I hit that 25k mile mark. So they gave a quick explanation about the internal design and materials inside the housing.
My understanding of what the tech said!
Basically the bell crank shaft doesn't turn that much because you are driving straight ahead most of the time. So then that sweet spot of driving straight ahead on steering(small area on the shaft and bearings in bell crank) gets worked constantly and then begins to wear out causing driver fatigue(fighting to wheel).

After reading this discussion on the SuperSteer Bell Crank, I decided to investigate the health of my steering system.

I did the following checks with the engine off, so that the power steering was disabled. Here is what I did:

First, I rotated the steering wheel between right and left. I didn't measure how much torque I employed, but it was a lot more than my normal steering effort with the power steering running. I used both hands and put in the kind of effort (or more) that I felt I would need to drive the coach under a power steering failure. When I did this with all 4 wheels on the ground, the steering wheel rim moved in a +/- 1" range. When I did this with the LF wheel off the ground, the rim moved in a +/- 2" range.

From this, I conclude that there is +/- 1" of steering play coming from the steering box, bell crank and the steering arms going to the LF wheel. Since I added another +/-1" when I lifted the LF front wheel, that means that I was getting an extra +/-1" of play from the tie-rod ends.

Next, I got my son to move the steering wheel back and forth with comparable force while I watched all the steering components under the coach. At no time did I see or feel any play in any of these steering components.

At this point, I'm satisfied with my bell crank and tie-rod ends, as well as the steering box (which was replaced at about 25,000 miles because of a leak). Right now, I've got 50,000 miles on my coach.

I'd be interested in the results of others doing the same experiment on their coaches. If we get really serious, we can standardize on the torque applied on the steering wheel with a luggage or fish scale.

–Gordon