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Old 11-13-2013, 06:56 PM   #1
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Unhappy Slammed Door

Am I the only one with a Berkshire that has to slam the entry door in order for it to latch. I've adjusted and dis-assembled the dad-gum thing twice and I can't seem to make any difference in the closing force necessary to get it to latch.

Anybody else got the same problem?
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #2
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can you make adjustments on the hinge side instead of the latch side of the door. is the door frame level and square? i am not a berkshire owner, but i would think the same principle that applies to house doors would apply to campers as well.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:34 PM   #3
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A motorhome door is more like a car door than a house door. There aren't any adjustments on the hinge side. The door is very square as is the frame.

Thanks for the thoughts.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #4
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I took the plastic cover on the inside off and saw two wood shims in between the latch. I took the bottom shim out and that made it perfect, was worried about not sealing tight enough but it is perfect. No more slamming, I can just walk out and shut the door and it latches all the way.

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Old 11-13-2013, 08:51 PM   #5
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mcomer,

Is that on a Berkshire?
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:07 PM   #6
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No but I have to slam it to get the dang step light to go off....
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgewant
A motorhome door is more like a car door than a house door. There aren't any adjustments on the hinge side. The door is very square as is the frame.

Thanks for the thoughts.
Forest River uses lots of Lippert doors in class A's. Maybe call LCI for advice. Every latch is adjustable.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:08 PM   #8
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VinceU,

Thanks. This door is manufactured by PTL Engineering. I've mailed them for any guidance on adjustments.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:35 PM   #9
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VinceU,

Thanks. This door is manufactured by PTL Engineering. I've mailed them for any guidance on adjustments.
Know the brand, don't want to open that mechanism without some guidance! The one I remember had the frame mounted strike pin depth adjustable by rotating the pin. Wait for their advice however.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:55 PM   #10
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On our Berkshire 390 bh I had the dealer to try to adjust the door lock with no luck. At the International Rally in Goshen this past August the factory technician adjusted the door lock and as a result we have to slam the door to get the dead bolt to lock but not to lock the bottom lock. The major plus side is we no longer have an air leak while driving. Slamming the door is a small price to pay for a sealed air tight door. I am happy to live with it. Good luck
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:13 AM   #11
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Same here, I have to slam ours also to get a tight seal. I only do this when we are about to drive or when we go to sleep. Otherwise I just close it normally when we are camping and going in and out the coach.

It has a double locking mechanism just like a car door.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:34 AM   #12
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Located the following and it seems to describe my door and how to adjust it. Am going to try it tomorrow.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf PTL Preferred Door Latch Adjustment.pdf (4.70 MB, 159 views)
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:59 PM   #13
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The above adjustment worked and I backed off on the star wheels only one cog. Haven't road tested yet but it is much easier to close. Now we've got to break the habit of slamming it. Will update once I have a chance to road test.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:07 PM   #14
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I would be curious not only about how you make out with a road test but also maybe do a rain or water test. When we got our coach new from the dealer the door didnt need to be slammed but I noticed a bit of water (and resulting rust) on top of the door and the double catch didnt work it was just a single click. On my next visit back for service to ask about this their one (and only) knowledgeable tech told me that it should work as a double catch(push lightly for first click and door is closed but maybe not totally sealed) or push hard (or slam) and it is sealed tight and safe for the road although we lock it anyway while in motion. He tinkered with the adjustment and yes we need to slam or at least close it very firmly but it works and we want to stick with it that way. If it is set up right you should push lightly and hear a click then push again more formly and hear it click again. I believe that is why the latching post is designed to have a bit of movement in it.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:24 PM   #15
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Well I really had to slam mine to get it to latch on the second detent. I really didn't care for it the way it was. However I really won't like it either if I have water leaks or wind noise. I did place a piece of paper between the weather seal and door and closed it and tried to pull it out. I repeated this around the perimeter of the door and had resistance at all locations. I'm waiting for my co-pilot to get off work before road testing so she can tell me if she hears anything like wind noise or rattles. If that goes well then while it's out of the garage I'm going to get the hose after it and test for water tightness.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:06 PM   #16
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Edge, yes 2112 Berkshire.

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Old 11-14-2013, 09:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Well I really had to slam mine to get it to latch on the second detent. I really didn't care for it the way it was. However I really won't like it either if I have water leaks or wind noise. I did place a piece of paper between the weather seal and door and closed it and tried to pull it out. I repeated this around the perimeter of the door and had resistance at all locations. I'm waiting for my co-pilot to get off work before road testing so she can tell me if she hears anything like wind noise or rattles. If that goes well then while it's out of the garage I'm going to get the hose after it and test for water tightness.
Try a "caulk" test first before water. The result will show not only a leak potential but also exactly where. Simply apply a heavy application of dry marker chalk to the thin edge of the gasket. Close the door normally and when you re-open you'll see a faint trace of where the chalk has transferred to the steel frame. This test is used by the Navy and Merchant Marine where water integrity is important. Most used on Duct work and vent openings to ensure if vessel is taking water, it won't sink due to leaking doors.

The cam pin design is used on the automotive style lock, not yours, found both online by PTL
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:53 PM   #18
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VinceU

My latch is the cam pin design. Had it apart and moved the cam by one cog. The document I posted was a great description of how to adjust the latch. Not sure why you think my latch is not like what is depicted in that document!
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgewant View Post
VinceU

My latch is the cam pin design. Had it apart and moved the cam by one cog. The document I posted was a great description of how to adjust the latch. Not sure why you think my latch is not like what is depicted in that document!
Actually I do agree with you, my Engineering is better than my English,
"The cam pin design is used on the automotive style lock, not yours, found both online by PTL" that's what this said! Same company, different design. One of the posts 3 or 4 back(Campin Cajun) says he has the automotive design latch. Both are covered in their web site.

The test will work with any flat gasket surface. Better than blind test with water.
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:17 PM   #20
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Whatever!
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