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Old 03-21-2023, 10:43 PM   #1
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Slide Out Creeping Out when driving

I am getting to drive my MH from Miami back up to Canada in June.

MH: 2014 Forest River Berskhire 400bh

However, when I drove my MH from Fort Myers to Miami back in January, I noticed the kitchen slide out creeping out while I was driving and would have to stop frequently to retract it back in. When I opened the hydraulic pump compartment the compartment itself was soaked in hydraulic fluid, but I could not see where it was coming from. I had a mechanic come out to the resort I am staying at, and he adjusted the valves on the pump itself which seemed to fix the issue. The mechanic also noted that this frequent occurs as a result of continuing to retract when the slide is all the way in already.

My question to you folk out there who have experience or more mechanical inclination than me:

Can I place slide locks on my slide out for my 3000mile journey to prevent any slide from creeping out with this issue having happened before?
- I would like to get this fixed at an RV shop back in Canada (due to multifactorial reasons)

TIA
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Old 03-22-2023, 12:03 AM   #2
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Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Berkshire sub-forum, for help from other Berkshire owners and factory reps.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Forest River Forums mobile app
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:39 AM   #3
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Slide locks will definitely help with keeping the slide room from drifting while in transit. when you checked the fluid in the reservoir where the slides retracted and the leveling legs also retracted? Ideally the ATF fluid should be about a 3/4" to an inch below the cap neck. When fluid is added with the hydraulic slide out and the leveling legs extended, the excess fluid has no place to go except out into the jack compartment through the cap or breather. the cause of the drifting slide room could be a faulty anti creep valve., air in the system (this is noticed when the leveling system is extended and one of the sldie rooms also extend) I have included a quick guide on how to properly purge air from the system.
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Old 03-22-2023, 08:29 AM   #4
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Even my little Roo trailer has two manual telescoping struts to be inserted between the closed slide and the wall to keep the slide shut on the road. Wall is marked with the outboard location and the slide has an indentation in the seal for the inboard end. Never towed without them so don't know if they're necessary on my slide but the slide does not move with them installed.

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Old 03-22-2023, 09:41 AM   #5
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My big slide did the same thing. On my coach, the valve internal to the hydraulic cylinder was the culprit and would let fluid move while bouncing down the road. Tool it to a hydraulic shop who opened the cylinder, replaced the valve, welded it back together, and that fixed the issue. Taking the cylinder off and on was time consuming, but the fix was inexpensive from the shop.
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Old 03-22-2023, 01:12 PM   #6
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I replaced both of my hydraulic cylinders myself for the kitchen full wall slide for this exact complaint. Wasn’t to bad a job, 2 hoses, mounting nuts etc. I posted here somewhere a couple of years ago when I did it. I even did the repair in the rv storage facility. 🥳
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Old 03-23-2023, 09:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RNMedic38 View Post
I am getting to drive my MH from Miami back up to Canada in June.

MH: 2014 Forest River Berskhire 400bh

However, when I drove my MH from Fort Myers to Miami back in January, I noticed the kitchen slide out creeping out while I was driving and would have to stop frequently to retract it back in. When I opened the hydraulic pump compartment the compartment itself was soaked in hydraulic fluid, but I could not see where it was coming from. I had a mechanic come out to the resort I am staying at, and he adjusted the valves on the pump itself which seemed to fix the issue. The mechanic also noted that this frequent occurs as a result of continuing to retract when the slide is all the way in already.

My question to you folk out there who have experience or more mechanical inclination than me:

Can I place slide locks on my slide out for my 3000mile journey to prevent any slide from creeping out with this issue having happened before?
- I would like to get this fixed at an RV shop back in Canada (due to multifactorial reasons)

TIA
sounds like a bad anti creep valve...
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Old 03-23-2023, 10:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric B FR Diesel View Post
sounds like a bad anti creep valve...
Where is that located?
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Old 03-23-2023, 02:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Where is that located?
for equalizer systems that we use it is built into the slide cylinder..
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Old 03-23-2023, 03:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Eric B FR Diesel View Post
for equalizer systems that we use it is built into the slide cylinder..
Thanks.
Is it a replaceable part inside the cylinder?
I understand hydraulic cylinders and their operation but wanting to know if internal parts are available separately or does FR require replacement of an entire cylinder?
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Old 03-23-2023, 03:26 PM   #11
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The anti creep valve is piggy backed to the slide out ram. I will try to get a pic tomorrow and upload it.
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Old 03-27-2023, 03:14 PM   #12
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Old 03-30-2023, 01:32 PM   #13
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I just posted a similar question undet a different title.

M
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Old 03-30-2023, 06:39 PM   #14
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Can you tie something on the inside off to keep it from creeping, like a table leg, I wouldn't think it would take much to keep it from creeping.
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Old 03-30-2023, 07:42 PM   #15
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Mine started to creep out going down the road 1600 miles from home on a three day holiday weekend. Snow and cold much of the way. I cinched up two ratchet straps from the underneath frame of the chassis to the attach points of the edge of the slide to bring it back in. Made it home that way just fine, then began the process of removing the cylinder, replacing the valve, and reattaching everything. Hardest part was getting that big slide resyncronized properly.
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Old 04-01-2023, 09:44 AM   #16
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There is a test for the anti-creep valve. Don't remember it exactly....but mine passed. I had to buy a new hydraulic cylinder. I used large ratchet straps to keep it pulled in till I could get the replacement cylinder. Very poor quality hydraulic cylinders, and on the 400 QL they can actually rub on the frame in a way that will destroy the ram.
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Old 05-24-2023, 10:33 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the replies and great info on here. If I ratchet strap the slideouts could this cause excess pressure to build back into the system and to the hydraulic leveling jacks, causing them to slowly extended while driving? Also, could I somehow lock out the slideout hydraulics to prevent further circulation of the pressure/fluid?
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Old 05-25-2023, 09:22 AM   #18
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Straps

When I strapped mine (previous reply) there was no problem with it affecting the other hydraulics as far as I could tell. At least on my coach there is a manifold attached to the pump where I believe you can isolate or manually deal with each slide/jack.
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Old 05-25-2023, 09:38 AM   #19
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heres what people will typically use for slideout lockers...

https://www.recpro.com/rv-slide-out-...UaAq54EALw_wcB

Also for reference on motorhomes, typically the leveling jacks are wired for an auto retract when the parking brake is disengaged.
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Old 05-25-2023, 10:05 AM   #20
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Thank Igave and FR Diesel, these are great points. My plan, from all the information from all you great people out there. Maybe a preliminary check sheet for people in similar circumstances (please feel free to add and/or edit to refine). I will try to link the individuals and forums that have helped me with this and give proper credit. Also, anyone who reads this, please know that these are temporary ideas and that repair at a service repair shop is the definitive solution.

Step-by-Step Procedure for RV Hydraulic Troubleshoot and Temporary Fixes:

Step 1: Clean Hydraulic Pump/Manifold/Compartment:
a. Ensure the hydraulic system is turned off and all components are cool.
b. Use a suitable cleaning solution and a lint-free cloth to wipe down the hydraulic pump, manifold, and compartment.
c. Pay close attention to removing any dirt, debris, or oil residue from the surfaces.
d. Inspect the components for any signs of damage or leaks. If leaks are detected, proceed to step 2 before continuing with the cleaning process.

Step 2: Perform Equalizer Systems (or applicable manufacturer) Air Bleed Procedure and Check for Leaks:
a. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions or maintenance manual for the specific air bleed procedure for your Equalizer Systems hydraulic system. See the post #3 above by Lincman983
b. Follow the recommended steps to bleed air from the system, ensuring proper hydraulic fluid circulation.
c. While performing the air bleed procedure, inspect the pump, manifold, and hoses for any pinhole leaks or other signs of fluid leakage.
d. If leaks are found, address them accordingly, either by tightening connections or replacing damaged components.
e. If the hydraulic fluid level is low, evaluate the need for additional fluid, (with all hydraulics retracted)

Step 3: Equalize Pressure Before Slide Retraction:
a. Just before retracting the slides, as the slides approach the fully closed position, release the retraction switch to stop the movement just as they close.
b. Immediately after the slides close, give a very brief bump to the extend switch to activate the hydraulic system in the opposite direction.
(This action helps equalize the pressure in the hydraulic lines, reducing slide movement during travel).

Step 4: Secure Slide-outs for Travel:
a. Use ratchet straps to secure the slide-outs to the chassis, providing extra reinforcement, stability, and peace of mind during transit.
b. Position slide locks (commercial or 2x4s) in place according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring they are correctly engaged to prevent unintended movement. Suggested to position slide locks across all three sides of slide-out to prevent pressure being unevenly dispersed.

Step 5: Isolating Slide-out Hydraulics (highly recommended):
Consult with an Equalizer Systems Technician and follow these steps if an internal cylinder leak is suspected:

5.1. Identifying the Hydraulic Cylinder:
Locate the hydraulic cylinder that potentially has an internal leak. Accurate identification of the cylinder is crucial for the isolation procedure.

5.2. Retracting all Cylinders (Slide-outs):
If the hydraulic cylinder is part of a system with multiple cylinders, retract all the other cylinders, such as slide-outs, to relieve pressure on the cylinder being isolated. This minimizes the risk of unexpected movements and potential hazards during the isolation process.

5.3. Slowly Releasing/Opening the Retract Side of the Cylinder:
Locate the retract side of the hydraulic cylinder and use appropriate tools to slowly release or open the valve controlling that side. This allows the hydraulic fluid to drain from the cylinder. Place absorbent pads or towels beneath the cylinder to contain any spills.

5.4. Slowly Releasing/Opening and Extending the Side of the Cylinder:
Locate the extended side of the hydraulic cylinder and use appropriate tools to slowly release or open the valve controlling that side. This action allows the hydraulic fluid to drain from the cylinder. Again, be prepared for fluid drainage and have absorbent pads or towels in place.

5.5. Capping Both Ends of the Hydraulic Cylinder:
Once the hydraulic fluid has drained, cap both ends of the cylinder using appropriate caps or plugs. This prevents further leakage during the isolation process.

5.6. Capping the Hydraulic Hoses to and from the Cylinder:
Identify the hydraulic hoses connected to the isolated cylinder and cap both ends using appropriate caps or plugs to prevent hydraulic fluid leakage.

5.7. Securing Slide-outs:
If the hydraulic cylinder is used for slide-outs, ensure that the slide-outs are securely locked in place. Use ratchet straps and slide-out locks to immobilize the slide-outs, preventing unintended movement while the cylinder is isolated.

Step 6: Monitor Hydraulic Leveling System During Travel:
a. While on the road, periodically check the hydraulic levelling system for any error noises or lights that could indicate the jacks are extending unintentionally.
b. If any abnormal noises or warning lights are observed, safely pull over and investigate the issue before continuing.



Cited Threads:

dieselguy (Post #4): https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ng-155169.html

BMcCaul (Post #12): https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ut-205016.html

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...lf-262579.html

I-RV (Post#5): Although specific to FR Berkshires, something to consider when discussing repair for hydraulic cylinders on MH. https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...tml#post716310
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