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Old 12-08-2016, 08:33 AM   #41
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Bob,
So I assume that you have the 3 season Truma on you coach?
I guess the price I got from the dealer ($2,350) was for the 3 season Truma. I assume that your Berk has the water manifold like mine?
I know I have to soon solve this hot water problem or my wife will have me trading it in on something. Looked at a FR DX3 with Aqua Hot today.
Hi Joe,

Yeah, we have the "3-ish" Season base Truma - if I could find a Truma dealer close by (the nearest one to me is east of Atlanta or Knoxville, TN) I would upgrade to the Comfort (I have been told it is just a part or 2 that they swap out) cost, I suspect, is less than $200.

WOW - who quoted you $2,350 for the Truma?
According to the article in Trailer Life, The Basic model retails for $1,099 and the Comfort model sells for $1,199.
[http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-h...truma-aquago/]

I have been told that a swap out with another tankless HWH (like Atwood) is a 2 hour max job with the big issue being that you have to paint the Truma cover to match your coach. Even with all that, I can't see installation being more than $500, so $2,350 sounds pretty outrageous.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:48 AM   #42
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Truma: the Boondock test

We are at the RV dealer getting a couple items fixed on warranty and are "camping" in their service lot until tomorrow.

When I took the coach in yesterday, I made sure that I had a full tank of water and a empty gray tank, so that all I would need to hook up was their 30AMP service.

We did the classic "Navy Shower" routine this morning: Turn on shower at a trickle to heat the water up, get wet, shower off, soap, shower on and rinse.

The Truma preformed flawlessly! No spurts of cold water, no scalding, just nice hot water at any pressure (trickle, medium and full on for the rinse).

Once the shower head had heated water in the line it was available instantly, even after 3-4 min of being off while I soaped & shampooed.

This is the first time we have tested the Truma in this fashion. We have overnighted a couple of times, but showered as we usually do when on full hookups. We did the navy Showers this morning not only to conserve water but to really give the Truma a acid test. We were not disappointed.

This tankless hot water heater rocks!

Next mod I want to do is install the ShowerMi$er--I can see that this gadget will really help conserve water in the shower--especially when waiting for the water to heat up!

RV – Aqua View, Inc.


BTW, another cool feature of the Showermi$er is that you can use it to fill your FWT without going out to the manifold & swapping the FW hose from coach to FWT--now that's neat!
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:00 AM   #43
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Hi Joe,

Yeah, we have the "3-ish" Season base Truma - if I could find a Truma dealer close by (the nearest one to me is east of Atlanta or Knoxville, TN) I would upgrade to the Comfort (I have been told it is just a part or 2 that they swap out) cost, I suspect, is less than $200.

WOW - who quoted you $2,350 for the Truma?
According to the article in Trailer Life, The Basic model retails for $1,099 and the Comfort model sells for $1,199.
[http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-h...truma-aquago/]

I have been told that a swap out with another tankless HWH (like Atwood) is a 2 hour max job with the big issue being that you have to paint the Truma cover to match your coach. Even with all that, I can't see installation being more than $500, so $2,350 sounds pretty outrageous.
Bob,

I was at the dealer on Tuesday to get a headlight replaced. I have been complaining to them from day 1 about the Atwood. The dealer is in NJ
that quote is with the comfort and door being black to kind of match my coach.
My DW can not stand the hot water issue especially at the kitchen sink to do dishes. Dealer told me I could also change out the kitchen faucet from the present 1.8 GPM to a 2.2 GPM and that would help out the situation.
In order to get constant hot water at the kitchen faucet, we have to turn on the half bathroom faucet and leave it run to keep the water hot at the kitchen faucet. That works, (not while dry camping) and what a waste of water. My wife has actually talked about trading coach when XL 40C comes out. From the brochure it has pretty much the same interior that the 38A has. but it has Truma hot water, but only the 3 season like yours. Also have been looking at a Super C Dynamax 37BH it has Aqua-Ho t three system, Electric, Diesel, engine heat. A true 4 season coach
We like the Berk 38A, but can not stand the hot water situation.
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:23 AM   #44
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OK reality check here..... are you suggesting trading in the coach because you don't like the hot water heater?

For the tens of thousands that is going to cost you, you can have NASA install a hot water system that will knock your socks off!
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:49 PM   #45
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Joe & Kathy
Back when my moho was new and at that tine with a Girard Gen I, I had the same problem as you. I measured the kitchen sink flow by running water at full flow into a gallon container and timing it to full. I got around 0.67 gpm. I would suggest that you measure this way rather then believing you have a 1.8 gpm faucet. Of course, the flow is related to the water pressure.

I found a silver barrel shaped one way valve where the faucet's hose connects to the faucet body. After removing it, my flow doubled. I cannot guarantee that you have the same.

Good luck with the Jersey dealer

My Girard GSWH-2 Gen III retrofit for $400 is so far doing a good job. With it, you set the temperature out of the heater, and the heater maintains that temperature by adjusting the propane flow.
Hank
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:11 PM   #46
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Joe & Kathy
Back when my moho was new and at that tine with a Girard Gen I, I had the same problem as you. I measured the kitchen sink flow by running water at full flow into a gallon container and timing it to full. I got around 0.67 gpm. I would suggest that you measure this way rather then believing you have a 1.8 gpm faucet. Of course, the flow is related to the water pressure.

I found a silver barrel shaped one way valve where the faucet's hose connects to the faucet body. After removing it, my flow doubled. I cannot guarantee that you have the same.

Good luck with the Jersey dealer

My Girard GSWH-2 Gen III retrofit for $400 is so far doing a good job. With it, you set the temperature out of the heater, and the heater maintains that temperature by adjusting the propane flow.
Hank
I-RV,

The model number of the faucet in the kitchen after looking up the manufacture, it is a 1.8 GPM. And after looking further you can get a 2.2
GPM. Yes, the water flow is related to the pressure. In the other faucets, in both bath rooms, I was able to remove the water restrictors and that increased the flow greatly and I changed out the shower head to one that was recommended by someone on here, and that greatly improved that.
However this kitchen... So this silver shaped barrel thing. Is it under the sick or inside the faucet? I will walk out and look for this thing.
I will let you know..
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:24 PM   #47
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OK reality check here..... are you suggesting trading in the coach because you don't like the hot water heater?

For the tens of thousands that is going to cost you, you can have NASA install a hot water system that will knock your socks off!
Yes, that is actually what I am suggesting, as crazy as that sounds. And the best part about it, it was DW idea.

But when the reality sets in, the $2,350 for the Truma installed with a black door to match coach may be more practical.

But all of us who has one of these Atwood's, have to figure out how best to fix this problem. My wife loves the MH, but hates the hot water issue and I feel the same way. It was a PP design and we the consumer now has to put up with it. So I am gonna either fix it..or trade it..

Joe
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:54 PM   #48
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Bob,

I was at the dealer on Tuesday to get a headlight replaced. I have been complaining to them from day 1 about the Atwood. The dealer is in NJ
that quote is with the comfort and door being black to kind of match my coach.
My DW can not stand the hot water issue especially at the kitchen sink to do dishes. Dealer told me I could also change out the kitchen faucet from the present 1.8 GPM to a 2.2 GPM and that would help out the situation.
In order to get constant hot water at the kitchen faucet, we have to turn on the half bathroom faucet and leave it run to keep the water hot at the kitchen faucet. That works, (not while dry camping) and what a waste of water. My wife has actually talked about trading coach when XL 40C comes out. From the brochure it has pretty much the same interior that the 38A has. but it has Truma hot water, but only the 3 season like yours. Also have been looking at a Super C Dynamax 37BH it has Aqua-Ho t three system, Electric, Diesel, engine heat. A true 4 season coach
We like the Berk 38A, but can not stand the hot water situation.
Joe,

That's NUTS - easily $700 over what it should cost!

Since you have a 2017 Berk, I'd give Randy Hauser a call and complain (nicely ) See what he is willing to do for you.

Also, if you are game for a little road trip, and perhaps if Randy is game to retrofit your HWH, maybe a trip to Elkhart IN is in order?
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Old 12-08-2016, 03:41 PM   #49
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So this silver shaped barrel thing. Is it under the sick or inside the faucet? I will walk out and look for this thing.
I will let you know..
The one-way valve that I removed was inside the kitchen cabinet, up where the faucet hose attaches to the faucet body. It looks like part of the plumbing; silver color and about the size of a small sewing thread spool. Although I had this valve, I cannot swear that your moho has it.

Regardless the flow rate specs. of your faucet, you really should measure your flow as I described earlier,
Hank
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Old 12-08-2016, 03:59 PM   #50
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I know that pressure regulators are used by most. That will decrease the flow and in my opinion are not necessary in 99% of the parks. I always run the water before I hook up and can tell if the pressure is to high. I have a regulator but haven't used it in a couple of years.



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Old 12-08-2016, 04:21 PM   #51
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The one-way valve that I removed was inside the kitchen cabinet, up where the faucet hose attaches to the faucet body. It looks like part of the plumbing; silver color and about the size of a small sewing thread spool. Although I had this valve, I cannot swear that your moho has it.

Regardless the flow rate specs. of your faucet, you really should measure your flow as I described earlier,
Hank
There is no valve on mine, goes right from the hose to the water line connector. the only thing that does look like what you are describing is where the hose meets the pull out sprayer. So I will measure the flow as you described.
Thanks
Joe
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:23 PM   #52
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I know that pressure regulators are used by most. That will decrease the flow and in my opinion are not necessary in 99% of the parks. I always run the water before I hook up and can tell if the pressure is to high. I have a regulator but haven't used it in a couple of years.

Abandoned that on the very first trip for lack of flow to ignite the burner, have not used that since.
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Old 12-08-2016, 05:41 PM   #53
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My Jersey dealer removed the flow restrictors that were right behind the aerator, which is ay the very end of the faucet, ie right where it comes out.
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:10 PM   #54
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My Jersey dealer removed the flow restrictors that were right behind the aerator, which is ay the very end of the faucet, ie right where it comes out.
Yes, I did that to all of the faucets, they all improved 100% except for the kitchen. How is your flow there? in order to get hot water there, we have to have the bath faucet running to get hot water at the kitchen.

If you don't mind me asking. What NJ dealer ??
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:06 PM   #55
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Yes, I did that to all of the faucets, they all improved 100% except for the kitchen. How is your flow there? in order to get hot water there, we have to have the bath faucet running to get hot water at the kitchen.

If you don't mind me asking. What NJ dealer ??

I replaced mine with a regular residential faucet. It works much better.



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Old 12-08-2016, 09:33 PM   #56
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I replaced mine with a regular residential faucet. It works much better.
That will be my next move Phil, and then some form of heater replacement. It will be resolved. Thanks
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:09 PM   #57
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I hated the plumbing fixtures so last year I replaced the kitchen faucet and both bathroom sinks with real porcelain. Much nicer.



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Old 12-09-2016, 09:50 PM   #58
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Yes, I did that to all of the faucets, they all improved 100% except for the kitchen. How is your flow there? in order to get hot water there, we have to have the bath faucet running to get hot water at the kitchen.

If you don't mind me asking. What NJ dealer ??
Yeah, kitchen is still a little lame..... Waiting till spring to really start messing with this as it is now 28Ί out there and the whole thing is winterized.

Dealer is Dylans in Sewell.
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:04 PM   #59
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[QUOTE=Oscarvan;1379039]Yeah, kitchen is still a little lame..... Waiting till spring to really start messing with this as it is now 28Ί out there and the whole thing is winterized.

Dealer is Dylans in Sewell.[/QUote

Me too, same dealer. This is my second RV from them, and have talked to them yesterday about trade.
PM me, and I will give you my cell # maybe we can be helped with this Atwood thing

JOE
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