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Old 06-18-2016, 02:49 PM   #41
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Ed
Thinking out loud here. Least likely battery shut offs still off? I don't think this would affect the house.
Wired incorrectly? It might be worth pulling the cover to double check. Have you checked the source to make sure you are getting power there? If you have a proximity meter track the power it see where it stops.



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Old 06-18-2016, 03:05 PM   #42
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A wild guess, what about the salesman switch by the steps?
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:27 PM   #43
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Got it resolved. Goes under the dumb ***** heading. I didn't check the breaker for my RV outlet. It was off.
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:41 PM   #44
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FYI, there is two main breakers for incoming power in the breaker box inder the bed.
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:58 PM   #45
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Skip, my mistake was even dumber. It was the breaker box in my HOUSE that was turned off. I have a 50 amp hookup at home and for some reason known only to the breaker box fairy, it was turned off.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:45 AM   #46
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Do you still have the original controller? I had lots of issues with mine so when I replaced the batteries I also replaced the controller. The new one allows you to set the charge rate. Lots more control. Attachment 110972

This is the new one.

Another Question on the controller--- about charge rate?

So it's suggested to set charge at 70%. Why not set it at say 40% or even less. Always when mine is charging it will be on shore power for several hours or even days ??

We use trickle chargers on farm equip when setting all winter. Keeps battery at full charge ??

Russell
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:56 AM   #47
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I haven't read the manual yet only had MH a year but isn't there an automatic feature to regulate the charge rate and when batteries are fully charged switches to trickle charge automatically.


Wayne
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:28 AM   #48
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I haven't read the manual yet only had MH a year but isn't there an automatic feature to regulate the charge rate and when batteries are fully charged switches to trickle charge automatically.


Wayne

That might be? But different ones are saying to set lower to stop boiling over. They are suggesting 70% --

As to what your say (most likely right) why shouldn't it drop out at 90% or even 100%. ??

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Old 06-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #49
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Yes there is. On your RV there is a converter (not to be mistaken for an inverter) that converts 120 vac to 12 volts, charges the batteries and runs all of the internal 12 volt loads (pumps, lights, stairs, etc) when you are connected to 120 volts.

A coach like yours will have either a Progressive Dynamics or a WFCO or equivalent. These modern converters will sense the battery back voltage and adjust their charging voltage so as not to overcharge the batteries. Normally, if the batteries are below 70% or so, they will put out 14.4 volts or more until they sense the batteries coming up to charge. That is the Boost mode. Then they will drop down to 13.6 or so to taper the battery charge and still provide the power for your internal loads. Then they will drop even lower to 13.2 when there are no loads so as to not overcharge the batteries. This is pretty much a trickle mode. PD units will jump from trickle to boost for 15 minutes or so every 21 hours just to keep the electrolyte mixed and attempt to desulfate the batteries.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:01 AM   #50
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Unique(?) Electrical Issue

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Yes there is. On your RV there is a converter (not to be mistaken for an inverter) that converts 120 vac to 12 volts, charges the batteries and runs all of the internal 12 volt loads (pumps, lights, stairs, etc) when you are connected to 120 volts.



A coach like yours will have either a Progressive Dynamics or a WFCO or equivalent. These modern converters will sense the battery back voltage and adjust their charging voltage so as not to overcharge the batteries. Normally, if the batteries are below 70% or so, they will put out 14.4 volts or more until they sense the batteries coming up to charge. That is the Boost mode. Then they will drop down to 13.6 or so to taper the battery charge and still provide the power for your internal loads. Then they will drop even lower to 13.2 when there are no loads so as to not overcharge the batteries. This is pretty much a trickle mode. PD units will jump from trickle to boost for 15 minutes or so every 21 hours just to keep the electrolyte mixed and attempt to desulfate the batteries.

Good info-- but why 70%. Why not 40%?

My shop battery charger has 3 settings --the first two do the same thing--one just takes longer-- setting 3 is for a quick boost to start a car or something.

If I'm understand correctly (probably not ha) 40% should get to the same place just take longer?

Russell
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:11 PM   #51
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Ed,
Happy to hear it was only a minor transgression with the circuit breaker and nothing more serious. Hopefully that will be the end of your issues.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:58 PM   #52
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Yes there is. On your RV there is a converter (not to be mistaken for an inverter) that converts 120 vac to 12 volts, charges the batteries and runs all of the internal 12 volt loads (pumps, lights, stairs, etc) when you are connected to 120 volts.



A coach like yours will have either a Progressive Dynamics or a WFCO or equivalent. These modern converters will sense the battery back voltage and adjust their charging voltage so as not to overcharge the batteries. Normally, if the batteries are below 70% or so, they will put out 14.4 volts or more until they sense the batteries coming up to charge. That is the Boost mode. Then they will drop down to 13.6 or so to taper the battery charge and still provide the power for your internal loads. Then they will drop even lower to 13.2 when there are no loads so as to not overcharge the batteries. This is pretty much a trickle mode. PD units will jump from trickle to boost for 15 minutes or so every 21 hours just to keep the electrolyte mixed and attempt to desulfate the batteries.

Berkshire uses Magnum inverter/charger, and is not equipped with a separate converter. When using shore power, it serves as a converter, and has user adjustable output if the proper remote is installed. Also, the Magnum has a user selectable equalize mode to "stir" the electrolyte, and have an automatic standby (no charge) mode when the batteries are at full charge, and no load applied.


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Old 06-20-2016, 05:56 PM   #53
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L16 batteries: can your battery bay hold the extra weight?

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I'll show you the top of the battery. What I'm saying is the ones in my 2014 coach are much bigger that golf cart batteries. I'd say 2.5 times as heavy. My golf cart have flat tires hauling 4 of these around !! Attachment 111021

Russell
Russell, the batteries you have are L16s, which are built for industrial floor sweepers. The footprint is about the same as a golf cart GC-1, but they are nominally 16 inches tall. A set of 4 would weigh about 500 pounds, versus 250 or so for 4 GC-1s.

They would fit in my Berk 34QS with room to spare, but I'm worried about whether the battery bay is strong enough for the extra weight. I've contacted the Forest River Diesel Division folks to see their opinion and this is the only question I've asked that they haven't answered.

So, I'm interested to hear what kind of coach you have? Does it have the Freightliner XCR chassis? Did your coach come with these batteries installed at the factory?

Have other people installed 4 L16s in their house battery bay with success (or disaster)?

Thanks, in advance, for info.

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Old 06-20-2016, 07:10 PM   #54
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Gordon: My coach is a 2014 Berkshire 390FL. I purchased it new : So yes it came from the factory with these huge batteries

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Old 06-20-2016, 11:20 PM   #55
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Gordon: My coach is a 2014 Berkshire 390FL. I purchased it new : So yes it came from the factory with these huge batteries

Russell
That's very comforting to hear. You've got the longer chassis, but it doesn't have a tag axle. Thus, there is no reason to believe the battery bay on yours is any different (i.e. stronger) than mine.

Thanks for the information.

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Old 06-21-2016, 05:35 AM   #56
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From the back of the coach there are three compartments. The back one has two 12 volt chassis batteries--2nd compartment from rear has the power cord & electric components--then the third compartment from the rear has the 4 big 6 volt batteries for the coach.

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Old 06-21-2016, 10:01 AM   #57
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That's my configuration on the 34QS. It is probably a standardized configuration, which makes me confident that my bay is built to the same strength specifications.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:40 AM   #58
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Now my frustration level is going up even more. We changed out the inverter and all the house batteries and that does seem to have abated the batteries boiling over, at least for now, but now we have other issues.

The inverter control panel does not work at all even though it is connected to both the inverter and the controller. The battery shut off by the entry door does not work. Setting the battery shut off to store does nothing even with the batteries shut off at the battery compartment. To add to that level of frustration now the bedroom lights don't work. They are dimmable LED's and they just barely flicker.

Any ideas out there in Berkshire land???
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:47 AM   #59
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My first guess would be batteries wired incorrectly. Seems to be the case many times on the forums when people say they change their battery.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:11 AM   #60
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I agree with Dan. Who replaced the batteries ? Go look for a wire that might have fallen behind or under. If you need I can take pictures of my battery compartment later this morning.



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